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Please read my gear pattern. ANYBODY?

GsxrMike

GsxrMike

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I set up my axle and I like my coast side but my drive side seems a little close to the toe so I am asking the experts. Take a look and let me know what you think I need to do. :bow:

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Last edited:
fmstruck said:
Pinion is a little too deep.
Click to expand...

So how big of a shim should i pull out? I think there were four shims on it, and I was wondering, do I set the pinion bearing preload by tightening the pinion nut or should I torque it down and then check it. I didn't torque it down and I have about 20 in/lbs preload so I stopped. Maybe if I torque it down it would pull the pinion back a hair?

Another question, does a front gm dana 60 use a crush sleeve or not? They sent two with my kit but when I pull the pinion it had shims instead of a sleeve. (They also sent shims)
 
Ok I torqued my pinion nut to 250ft/lbs and the pattern changed just a bit. What do you guys think now?

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The pinion needs to be deeper.

Are you putting drag on the carrier while you spin the pinion? Did you thin the paint a little? What's the backlash set at?
 
38377k5 said:
The pinion needs to be deeper.

Are you putting drag on the carrier while you spin the pinion? Did you thin the paint a little? What's the backlash set at?
Click to expand...

Backlash is .006, The Yukon manual said to spin the carrier and that the pinion preload should be enough drag. I did not thin the paint.

I need to move the carrier toward the pinion correct?

Another quick question, It is very hard to turn the carrier by hand although I removed .002 worth of shim on one side of the carrier and .003 on the other side. Is this normal? Do you know how much torque it should take to turn the pinion with the carrier installed?
 
GsxrMike said:
Backlash is .006, The Yukon manual said to spin the carrier and that the pinion preload should be enough drag. I did not thin the paint.

I need to move the carrier toward the pinion correct?

Another quick question, It is very hard to turn the carrier by hand although I removed .002 worth of shim on one side of the carrier and .003 on the other side. Is this normal? Do you know how much torque it should take to turn the pinion with the carrier installed?
Click to expand...

I meant that you need less shim under the pinion, the pinion needs to move closer to the centerline of the carrier (deeper into the housing).

As for carrier bearing preload, I do that by feel. Basically enough that the carrier needs to be tapped into the housing with a mallet; not loose enough to slide in and not too tight that you would have to wail on it.

There are specs for carrier bearing preload, basically you measure the resistance at the pinion with the carrier installed.
 
Cool man thanks for the help. I will run down now and tear into it and run back up and post my results. Don't know if you will have a chance to check back in tonight but either way, I appreciate it!
 
When you take your next pattern hold a shop rag VERY firmly against the ring gear and spin the pinion smoothly. Also, remember to thin the paint with gear oil.
 
38377k5 said:
You need to remove some shim, and .005" seems like a reasonable amount.
Click to expand...

If I remove a shim that will move the pinion toward the yoke. When I removed the pinion the shims were under the larger race. If I add shim that will move the pinion closer to the center of the ring gear. Is this correct or should the shims be under the bearing?

Either way I have another problem. I added .006 under the race and then added the same to the other bearing and now my pinion won't turn once I start to tighten up the nut. :confused: The smaller shims are what set my pinion bearing preload don't they? I took all of off and I still can't turn the damn thing.
 
GsxrMike said:
If I remove a shim that will move the pinion toward the yoke. When I removed the pinion the shims were under the larger race. If I add shim that will move the pinion closer to the center of the ring gear. Is this correct or should the shims be under the bearing?
Click to expand...

Yeah, sorry, I had it backwards.

GsxrMike said:
Either way I have another problem. I added .006 under the race and then added the same to the other bearing and now my pinion won't turn once I start to tighten up the nut. :confused: The smaller shims are what set my pinion bearing preload don't they? I took all of off and I still can't turn the damn thing.
Click to expand...

Yes, the small shims set pinion bearing preload. When I'm setting up gears I never bother with them until I get the pattern right, I just set the pinion bearing preload by tightening the old pinion nut. Once the pattern is good, then I figure out which pinion bearing preload shims I need to get the preload right.
 
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