Pneumatic recip saw question...

[Keitha]

Can a pneumatic recip saw (see the link) cut through steel just a bit thinner than the frame on our trucks? I'm building a 1967 GTO and converting it to coil-overs. On the rear, I need to cut out part of the spring pocket - in need to cut a 4" circle in the steel.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CGP-8941079000/

Do you think this would work or would it keep binding?

 

[4X4HIGH]

I bought the cheap version of that saw from Harbor Freight and it was (threw it in the trash) the biggest piece of crap that I couldn't get to cut anything.

 

[Keitha]

I bought the cheap version of that saw from Harbor Freight and it was (threw it in the trash) the biggest piece of crap that I couldn't get to cut anything.

Scott,
Is that because it was a cheap Harbor Freight tool or do you think the design is just too light duty for steel thicker than a body pannel?
Do you think I would have the same problem with the one I listed?

 

[Keitha]

You can see the spring pocket in this picture. It currently is designed to capture the top of the stock coil spring. I need to cut the center circle out to about a 4" diameter so that I can weld a round steel plate from the bottom side that the upper coil-over will bolt to. The stock pocket is dimpled in the center and that is the part I need to cut out.

 

[ryoken]

holesaw?

i own snappies version... good tool, doubt i'd use it for that tho... i'd probably plasma it, then hog it out with a carbide burr in a die grinder.....

 

[4X4HIGH]

That saw (regardless of brand) will not work for what you want to cut. If that is your exact frame i'm not even sure what to suggest you use since it is all painted up purdy and stuff.

 

[Keitha]

While the picture above is not my frame, here are some pics of mine. It is nice and powder coated. I am not woried about cutting and welding the spring pockets as they are pretty well hidden once the body goes on.

I will follow your advise on the recip saw and save my money.

I like the idea of a holesaw. Perhaps if I use the saw from the under-side, the dimples in the spring pocket will keep the saw centerd. A plasma would be great, but I do not have one. I did just get a nice new Miller 211 , but that will not help cutting the hole.

Thanks to all,

 

[ryoken]

a close up of the area in question would help greatly... if it's enlarging a say, 2" hole to a 4" hole, you could try the double holesaw trick... most good arbors have enough thread to fit 2 on... using the smaller, inner one as a size guide, riding inside the hole..

 

[4X4HIGH]

a close up of the area in question would help greatly... if it's enlarging a say, 2" hole to a 4" hole, you could try the double holesaw trick... most good arbors have enough thread to fit 2 on... using the smaller, inner one as a size guide, riding inside the hole..

He could even just weld a piece of flatbar across the pocket (shorter than the hole he needs to drill) then there will be something for the drill bit to pilot off of and once the hole is enlarged the piece of flatbar will be gone as well.

 

[bigblock72]

I would use either a 4 inch holesaw like Scott recommends or go to a jigsaw with a 18-24 tooth blade and use a little cutting oil on the blade to help it stay cool. There is no way a sawzall type blade will cut a circle that small. That frame and your floor are waaaay to nice to even think about breaking out the plasma.