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points to electronic ignition conversion --

FlatBlackBurb

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i finally finished the shackle flip and dana 60 front on my '87 suburban so now it's time to focus on the other project: 69 cadillac coupe deville. after figuring out that the original engine had a cracked block and terrible piston slap, i found a new engine for $500 bucks. right now the new engine is in, everything is bolted up and in place. only thing that's holding me back is the fact that the 69 is set up for points ignition and the '75 8.2 liter is electronic. i was told that i need one wire and one wire only to run a constant 12 volts from the fuse panel at the "on" and "crank position" to the distributor. and that's it.

i'm fine with doing that but where would be a good palce to start at the fuse block? also can i make any use of the two wires connected to the old engine's coil? if anyone has any ideas i would appreciate them

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Look for a fuse location in the fusebox marked IGN. It should be full battery voltage.

I would run a new heavier gauge wire, instead of trying to reuse the old stuff.
 
watch out for the old one being a resistor wire... run a new one from the "ign" fuse as 3 said...
 
Can he not just use the old coil wire location, obviously without using the original wire? Would seem easier and cleaner...
 
well, thats what I meant really.. just remove the resistor wire from the bulkhead connector, and change it out to a standard primary wire... IF it even has a resistor one in there...
 
Not having dealt with the points stuff really, is the entire wire "resistant" or is there just a short section that is, meaning if you get that portion out, it'll be 12V?
 
it's the whole wire... it has a fabric sheath. they're pretty easy to spot usually.. iirc, length of the wire does matter...
 
standard points don't run on a full 12 volts, unless you like changing all the time. they run closer to 6 volts due to resistor in line between positive pole on coil and a 12 volt source. electron is straight 12 volts
 
Remove the existing wire on the plus side of the coil and replace it with a 10g wire. The stock points distributor uses about 9.6 volts. This is controlled by either a resister wire, ballast resister inline with the ign wire to coil or a resister coil. It doesn't matter what you do to get 12 volts as long as it is a 10g wire and keyed hot in run and crank position.
 
i think so.echo echo echo.lol.what has been said is correct.the original wire is resister wire/inline fuse will blow trying to run electric,if it'll run at all.replace that one wire with a 10 to 12 guage wire and it'll run fine.the electro distributor is grounded on its own :).
ummm, is there an echo in here? :rolleyes:
 
ummm, is there an echo in here? :rolleyes:

Not sure if that comment was directed at me or not. I did give the most informative answer (and the correct answer on wire guage) and which styles of resistance could possibly be found on that car. Maybe you just meant that lots of people had the same or similiar answer. :dunno:
 
You posted up almost at the same time. I open up multiple windows at once as I scan the forum, so I notice I may post the exact same answer 20 minutes later, (or whenever I come back to the computer) but it's only because I don't refresh the window prior to typing a reply.
 
problem solved. since i own two old school caddies i got a chiltons manual. it had the wiring for both the 69 472 and the '75 500. looking at the '69 wiring i saw where the coil connected to the fuse panel. so i just ran a wire from where the original wire ran (from the fuse box) straight to the distributor. full 12 volts. at cranking and run. i'm going to perfect the wiring a little more tomorrow i just had to get the damn thing out of my driveway and in the street. anyways thanks for your help all!
 

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