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Points to HEI

2High4U

1/2 ton status
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Aug 20, 2005
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Location
Felton Pennsylvania
My Points Distributer was replaced by a HEI distributor I was wondering if the timing was different for the points distributor than it is for the HEI? The sticker under the hood says to set it at 12 degrees and since it has been changed to HEI would it be different? My truck still isnt running right and ive replaces alot of things sounds like its missing a little or could it be the vaccume advane?? :confused:

Tranny TH-350 (did it in gravel with crappy tools)
Fuel Pump Block Plate (because I added electric one)
Clear fuel filter (the fuel is clear with no dirt)
Accell HEI Coil (because i thought the coil was bad so i got a bigger one)
Wires 8mm (because the old ones were burnt to a crisp)
Plugs Split Fire $4.50 each :eek1:
Battery + Cables (some one jerry rigged it with speaker wire for the positive ended up melting the the headers and caused my battery to screw up ohh and the negative cable was red)
Starter (screwed up from battery short or something)
and probably a lot more stuff i just cant think of right now hope someone finds this amusing :D
 
I have been told that the sticker under the hood is for sea level and to advance the timing 1 degree for every 2 thousand feet.

Mine seemed to run a lot better when I switched to one wire high output alternator, I don't know why though.

Don't know if the 2nd gens were like the 1st gens that have a ceramic voltage thing on the firewall but the HEI needs a constant 12 volts.

Last but not least replace the ignition module in the distributor. fairly cheap and can be the cause of problems. Good luck :wink1:
 
70jimmy said:
Mine seemed to run a lot better when I switched to one wire high output alternator, I don't know why though.
so your saying that you connected the large gauge wire to the output wire coming from the alternaor and it ran better what was it running like before? as for the ceramic thing i dont think it is hooked up to that. I have a large guage wire connected to a smaller gauge red wire comming from the firewall side of the fuse box
 
Wiring an HEI in a points equipped truck...

To propery install an HEI in a truck that had points,you have to run a 10 or 12 gauge wire from the fuse box,in a spot that gets power ONLY when the key is "ON"..(use test light to determine which empty spot on the fuse box is suitable)...the original wire to the point style ignition coil is a resistance wire,or has a resistor in line that knocks the voltage and amps down to keep the points from burning up rapidly--an HEI needs a full 12V power source to work properly..

70"s Jimmy's truck runs better with a one wire altenator most likely because his old altenator was not working 100%..DONT hook the HEI to the large red wire on the altenator--its "HOT" all the time,and it will drain your battery,and probably overheat the ignition coil or pickup coil in the HEI.. :crazy:
 
diesel4me said:
To propery install an HEI in a truck that had points,you have to run a 10 or 12 gauge wire from the fuse box,in a spot that gets power ONLY when the key is "ON"..(use test light to determine which empty spot on the fuse box is suitable)...the original wire to the point style ignition coil is a resistance wire,or has a resistor in line that knocks the voltage and amps down to keep the points from burning up rapidly--an HEI needs a full 12V power source to work properly..

70"s Jimmy's truck runs better with a one wire altenator most likely because his old altenator was not working 100%..DONT hook the HEI to the large red wire on the altenator--its "HOT" all the time,and it will drain your battery,and probably overheat the ignition coil or pickup coil in the HEI.. :crazy:

Yup. what he said. I have done this swap myself. W/out a full 12V going to the HEI, it will not run right.

Run a 10 ga. wire from an "Ign" source on the fuse panel. Make sure you only have power with the key on. Put a 10A fuse inline and run it to the "Batt" term on the HEI coil. I ran the 10 ga. wire though an under dash kill switch on mine. Once I push the button, my rig will not start. Since I run with the top off most of the time, it seemed like a good thing to do.
 
Dealt with the Points to HEI last year, and YES you have to replace/upgrade the wire.
 
yup!

Chevy started using them in 1975--a few Buicks and Olds,and Pontiacs got them in 1974..

Imagine this--its been 30 YEARS since we had POINTS!..few parts stores stock them anymore,and the last time I bought some,I found I'd have to pay 25 bucks for a crappy set of Blue Streak "Unipoints" ! :eek1: --I tried telling the guy I was getting them for he could buy an HEI from the junkyard for the same price..so he did!--talked myself right into putting it in for him.. :doah: :crazy: :rolleyes:
 
One wire alternator that I put on was a higher output alternator. Got rid of the plug and it just has one wire. Can't tell you where it goes that was many mods ago. Oh Well

I traced the wire that went to my resistor block and replaced the wire start to finish at the distributor. I also run a stock GM HEI with an Accel Super coil on top and a Jegs "high price, I mean performance ignition module."
 
Thanks

Thanks for everyones help!! its been runny crappy since I bought it and seems like it was missing just a little. the performance aspect was getting to me. Im going to do this today

hope this solves my power problem, feels like a slug

If this turns out not to be the problem and its my timing could someone explain to me how to set it correctly because i just cant seem to get it right.
ill check back after i do this and let you guys know
 
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