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Pole barn advice - siding done, power in

ktmoutfront said:
What pitch is required for show shedding in your area to keep the load down?
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Apparently, there is no pitch steep enough in standard construction to eliminate the load requirements. Houses many decades back had roofs too steep to climb on and that did the trick, but now they use more moderate pitch and more robust construction. Steel roofing helps, but we can realistically get 100" of snow between enough temp/sun to slide snow off a steel roof (happened 2-3 times last winter!). Roof shoveling is a common practice here.
 
Can you do any of the work yourself?

I just did infloor heat in my garage by myself. Was not overly difficult.

Martin
 
82355 said:
Can you do any of the work yourself?

I just did infloor heat in my garage by myself. Was not overly difficult.

Martin
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Thank you, yes, this is at the top of my list to discuss tomorrow. I am a DIY type at heart. Maybe I can get a slab and concrete done and do the stick-building myself. Or get walls trusses up and do the rest. Need to have some numbers. Hate to leave fresh materials open to the elements for long.
 
Additional height is some of the cheapest extra space you can buy. On my 30x36 going from 12' ceiling to a 14' was not that much more. I want to say around $1000 at the time.
 
I went with 16’ height on my 30x40’ pole barn. The finish ceiling height minus overhead door ended up at 13’-6”. My 2 post lift is 13’ to the top. Doors are 12’ wide and 14’ tall
 
Is there a reason not to look at a place like Bigbuildingsdirect.com? Shows $15k for the kit (installed). At $150/yard shouldn't the concrete be like $3k, so the thickened edge slab should be like $6k. I'm just not seeing why this is over $50k.
 
I agree, 14 foot walls are a minimum requirement so i can have a big enough lift to walk under my truck project. A 14 foot door is also on my list of minimum requirements as well. That way I can fit a dump truck or deuce in the shop.

20220630_170356.jpg

With permits, you need an engineered drawing/ plans for the building and it needs to meet your state and local building codes based on usage. The website you referred to likely is selling a generic kit that doesn't meet local codes. Have them quote the building with the actual location in mind first before you accept that $15K prove as realistic.
 
I did hear back from Armstrong Steel and they quoted $34k.

I also can't help but think about lumber prices and inflation and what it means to wait a bit.
 
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I agree lumber should go down….there is a local truck warehousing lot close by, sitting on truckloads of lumber, waiting to be delivered locally, but they don’t have room for it!
 
76zimmer said:
I agree lumber should go down….there is a local truck warehousing lot close by, sitting on truckloads of lumber, waiting to be delivered locally, but they don’t have room for it!
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For what it's worth, 2 of our local sawmills have closed this year for lack of customers. One had been down to a single shift for several months. It seems the lumber boom has passed, at the manufacturer level. Consumer prices should eventually follow suit.

I would wait, if price were my main concern (and if I had the option).
 
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campfire said:
For what it's worth, 2 of our local sawmills have closed this year for lack of customers. One had been down to a single shift for several months. It seems the lumber boom has passed, at the manufacturer level. Consumer prices should eventually follow suit.
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On the positive side of this negative situation, I now have more industrial ruins to explore... :thinking:

:popcorn:
 
Speaking of this, I felt officially old a couple of days ago, just looking at satellite photos, for I was looking at ruins of a building I used to work in.

https://www.google.com/maps/place/S...7baef5ac!8m2!3d43.4194699!4d-83.9508068?hl=en

This was built to make guns for WWII and went on to make the steering gears we all have in our squarebodies. The large "diagonal" building is the foundry and the smaller "straight" foundations are Plant 2. It's no big deal, I was an intern there for 1 summer.

https://ss.sites.mtu.edu/mhugl/2015/10/11/general-motors-saginaw-gun-plant/
 
I put a footing in to add onto my shop. Right when the lumber prices went nuts. I have been waiting for the recession to hit to bring the prices down. Does that make me a bad person?
 
Nope I am thinking I need to explore the loft I want to built in the shop, see what it'll cost.
 
I'm planning to build a 30x60 shop, and later a House.
We are looking for land currently, and where we are looking there is a lot of Granite outcroppings.
For so many reasons, we are going with ICF... Insulated Concrete Form walls.
Insulation, strength, and I think I can do most of it myself.
Snow load, hurricanes, earthquakes... wont even blink.
Used to be 20% more to build, but now with Lumber as crazy as it is Im hearing its so close its not even worth considering stick built.

This might help you understand ICF, if you are not familiar, and how to do it on rock..

And this is Part2

In your case, Id wait until its cured, then backfill and compact, then pour a floating floor, with PEX heating pipes too... so cheap to put it in at the time, then you can then add the heating later...

Hope that helps!
First time I saw it I was like WTF... I can do that!
 
My house is ICF, well more than 2/3 of downstairs. How do you do it for a garage/barn completely above grade?
 
I just helped a buddy do ICF. He was going to do his attached garage all ICF, but could not get ahold of more blocks, so he changed plans (after already having changed plans.

He had a lot of help, but it went pretty fast.

Martin
 
KeyBlazer said:
Used to be 20% more to build, but now with Lumber as crazy as it is Im hearing its so close its not even worth considering stick built.
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Doing ICF and the slab later means traditional foundation, AFAIK, so that's like another 4' of excavation and concrete around the perimeter and 50% more concrete. The advantage seems to be in insulation.

Then when you say stick built doesn't make sense, I think you're saying to go ICF from 4'+ under to 12' above. I'm not sure how the window and door frames are added.
 
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