CK5
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Polishing a turd?
- Thread starter Disturban
- Start date
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
Not worth it and yes.
Disturban said:Is it even worth the money/time to put rear lockers and 4:56 gearing in my 87 Suburban 10 bolts? I keep hearing how weak they are. Won't rear lockers give it a better chance to snap an axle ?
Depends what your intentions are.
If you are not going with too big of tires then it's not a waste.
10 bolts are not tooth picks, they can take some abuse but I wouldn't go bigger than 35" tires if you are doing mild off roading, and no bigger than 33" if you are hard on it.
And the locker can make it better or worse depending on situations.
The reason people break axles is wheel speed, they hammer in the gas to get momentum then they get instant traction and break a shaft or gears.
if youhave a locker and deeper gearing, you can go easy and not get stuck.
I have 35" tires on my 12 bolt locked and have yet to have problems with it and I wheel it on rocks but I usually let the engine idle over obstacles, I only use the gas pedal on the flats
Mreetz
1/2 ton status
I put 35s on my K5, blew up the 10 bolt, then blew up the 12 bolt and now the 14 has been holding strong......
For the same $$ you can find a 14bff. If its out of a CUCV it will have a detroit.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Ditch the rear 10 bolt & go with a 14bsf or ff. Then regear the front 10bolt or find a matched pair of axles with the same gears that you want and swap the front axle too. I would recommend 4.56's or 4.88's for a DD'ed Burb on 35" tires. 4.10's can be done but having the extra gear of the 4.56's or 4.88's is very nice when you are loaded down headed up a grade. They are nice for getting that heavy Chevy moving stoplight to stoplight.
I had 4.56's with 35's in my K5 and it was good. I would do 4.88's if I had to do it over though especially since I have 37's now.
Harley
I had 4.56's with 35's in my K5 and it was good. I would do 4.88's if I had to do it over though especially since I have 37's now.
Harley
99GmcClassic
Registered Member
Hossbaby50 said:
Hit the nail on the head. so to speak 4.10's just arent enuff I am a perfect example of that.
W7NB
1/2 ton status
Throw a Lockright in the rear end. $256 and shipping on ebay. When it breaks you can sell the locker to another 10 bolt user and get most of the money bak.. Who knows, might last a few years if you don't flog it.
Under a K5 maybe, but under a sub you're just begging to frag that 10 bolt. Every extra lb that little diff has to lug around and support brings it so much closer to it's working limits.
Under a 2WD pick-up it's a decent diff...but much heavier than that and it's service life gets a lot shorter. The "35's and under is OK" is really not so applicable with a 'burb IMHO.
Rene
Under a 2WD pick-up it's a decent diff...but much heavier than that and it's service life gets a lot shorter. The "35's and under is OK" is really not so applicable with a 'burb IMHO.
Rene
tRustyK5 said:
Well how much more do you think a sub is heavier than K5?
My K5 is 800lbs heavier than the average K5 and with the 35" tires and lockrite front and rear wheeled for 6 years on rocks, and what broke?
My frame
I am gentle that is true but not that gentle, I just don't throtle too much when traction is erratic.
I think the last comment about throwing a locrite till the axle breaks then get a bigger axle is the best, I went with that one and still have the same axles after 6 years.
It comes down to use, driving style and sometimes a bit of luck. I had a 12 bolt in my K5 when I bought it. It was open and on 33's...I never got a chance to wheel it because it fragged reversing out of a parking spot. 
I'd guess a sub is a good 700-1000 lbs more than a k5...which is a good 700-1000 lbs heavier than a 1/2 ton 2WD pick-up.
Your experience isn't unheard of, it's just uncommon to have that reliability from a 10 bolt with 35's, moreso under a 'burb.
Rene
I'd guess a sub is a good 700-1000 lbs more than a k5...which is a good 700-1000 lbs heavier than a 1/2 ton 2WD pick-up.
Your experience isn't unheard of, it's just uncommon to have that reliability from a 10 bolt with 35's, moreso under a 'burb.
Rene
tRustyK5 said:It comes down to use, driving style and sometimes a bit of luck. I had a 12 bolt in my K5 when I bought it. It was open and on 33's...I never got a chance to wheel it because it fragged reversing out of a parking spot.
I'd guess a sub is a good 700-1000 lbs more than a k5...which is a good 700-1000 lbs heavier than a 1/2 ton 2WD pick-up.
Your experience isn't unheard of, it's just uncommon to have that reliability from a 10 bolt with 35's, moreso under a 'burb.
Rene
I agree, but what I am sayingis that everybody here assumes that we're going to need 5 ton axles and we will beat on it and break it.
Some people here are using stockers with slightly oversized tires for DDse and everybody seems to think you can only do with 1 ton running gear.
There is life outside 1 tons guys, and I am trying to be the oposition
I didn't mean it that way...the 10 bolt front is actually pretty sturdy. In a Sub I'd pair it up with a SF 14 bolt and forget about it. That is a great 'tween diff...good strength, good clearance and easy to find.
Rene
Rene
