What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

POR15: Patch It

Operator238 said:
So I’m thinking about getting a titanium 140 from Harbor Freight. What model do I get, what wire, what gas mixture?
Click to expand...
I think you'll be happy with a 140amp. I almost bought that one. 75/25 argon CO2 mix with 0.023 wire is what I use. Start on the floor in those flat areas, no one will ever see the mistakes you make. It's a great spot to learn. Watch a lot of youtube videos before you start. There are some really helpful ones out there. Watch your heat too or you'll warp the crap out of the panels you're fixing. Body panel welding has nothing to do with continuous beads that look like dimes. Be a student of YouTube university and you'll learn all need to get started. Fitzee's Fabrication and Bad Chad are good starts on the YouTubes.
 
also invest in some copper spoons to back up holes and seems, the weld won't stick to copper. make it easier in my opinion. I am a novice as well only welded one patch on burb so far and have a few more spots to do. Also the welding blanket at HF is great to protect other areas from splatter and grinder sparks.
20210415_172321_Film1.jpg
the bad
in progress you can see the welding blanket covering dash
20210417_154626_Film1.jpg
 
Facebook marketplace...found a number of welders with carts and bottles in my region.

Taking a road trip next week, I'll be getting one when I get back.
 
Your really should spend some time here….

Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Chief Brody submitted a new Build: Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101 Has anybody used the Rust Bullet stuff? I need to sand the rust on the inside edge of my bed rails near the tailgate. If I sand it to bare metal, I will likely have to build it back up with filler. I don't...
ck5.com ck5.com
 
76zimmer said:
Your really should spend some time here….

Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101

Chief Brody submitted a new Build: Ryoken's Guide to Rust Treatment and Bodywork 101 Has anybody used the Rust Bullet stuff? I need to sand the rust on the inside edge of my bed rails near the tailgate. If I sand it to bare metal, I will likely have to build it back up with filler. I don't...
ck5.com ck5.com
Click to expand...
That’s great information thanks

I am looking at this drop in pan replacement but not real sure how they work. Do you just stack them? What happens to the old floors? I wish there was some video explanation.
 
I don’t think it’s that bad. I just cut that rot out and the rest I can grind, treat and coat. Perhaps I’m overreacting

IMG_7824.jpeg

IMG_7828.jpeg

IMG_7829.jpeg

IMG_7830.jpeg

IMG_7831.jpeg
 
Still working on it. The rear had a nice surprise for me. I swear the factory jute was a moisture breeding ground. The primer/paint they used was just absolute garbage from the factory. I’m hoping to clean this heavy scale rust off, sure the metal will be a little thinner but it’s still solid. I’m going to sand flap disc it, clean, treat and coat. I don’t think I’m going to waste time coating the entire floor (maybe I should?) but plan to coat just the areas I’m working on. I’m individually picking at each pit to see if it breaks through. If it does I’ll keep doing it till it stops then spot tack it with the mig welder and grind smooth…or I’ll just fill in with filler epoxy. I got a new fuel neck filler cover coming in the mail so I’ll just remove and trash that one.

IMG_7903.jpeg

IMG_7910.jpeg

IMG_7913.jpeg

IMG_7891.jpeg

IMG_7883.jpeg

IMG_7886.jpeg

IMG_7887.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Is my plan of attack sufficient? Should I coat the entire floor? I guess I would need to remove all existing paint?
 
Operator238 said:
Is my plan of attack sufficient? Should I coat the entire floor? I guess I would need to remove all existing paint?
Click to expand...
Just one more tip. When cutting out the damaged sections lay out what you are going to remove and drill a 1/4” hole at each corner. Then make your cuts from hole to hole. That will help prevent future cracking. This is more important if there are already cracks in the floor. Find the end of the crack- you might have to remove the paint to find the true end- drill a hole at the end of the crack to stop it from growing. All that being said, floor pans are a great place to learn. As long as it solid your learning curve will be covered.
 
Yes I should have done that. Thanks for the advice. So far no cracks in the floor. But any other cuts I will do that.

That heavy rust scale has been ground down. Now I’m going to apply evaoporust to it and let it sit. Heavily pitted but it’s still
Solid and the underside looks new. So
I’ll just tear and coat.

Question, should I paint the entire floor? Can I apply over existing paint? Should I just spot apply to the affected areas and leave the rest alone?

IMG_7924.jpeg

IMG_7923.jpeg

IMG_7922.jpeg
 
I've been using epoxy primer on bare metal. I sandblast everything so there's usually no rust left but you can always ospho that if necessary. Another option would be an encapsulator like por 15 but chassis saver works just as well and is cheaper
 
1300obo said:
I've been using epoxy primer on bare metal. I sandblast everything so there's usually no rust left but you can always ospho that if necessary. Another option would be an encapsulator like por 15 but chassis saver works just as well and is cheaper
Click to expand...
But if I want to do the entire cab floor will I need to strip all the paint? I hope not.
 
Not to be the bearer of bad news but id be willing to bed that those "still solid" areas arent that solid. I would blast that rear section and see what it looks like, I bet you end up with more holes than you think.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom