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ported box question.

WOTBandit88

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I just got these 2 fosgate HX2 subs in a box. Its a sealed box and was told they might "bottom out" (whatever the hell that means),but im assuming it means the box will limit the deepness of the bass? Anyways its a smallish box with not alot of wood to work with around the speaker. I was wondering if I can do some half ass port job on it, if so how would I go about it. I dont need anything pretty because i still use the cargo area and its gonna get crap thrown on it or crammed against it. Just to add some bump in the trunk. Heres a picture. Also I will be using the amp on top of it. 900 watt fosgate Punch 301m.

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I just got these 2 fosgate HX2 subs in a box. Its a sealed box and was told they might "bottom out" (whatever the hell that means),but im assuming it means the box will limit the deepness of the bass? Anyways its a smallish box with not alot of wood to work with around the speaker. I was wondering if I can do some half ass port job on it, if so how would I go about it. I dont need anything pretty because i still use the cargo area and its gonna get crap thrown on it or crammed against it. Just to add some bump in the trunk. Heres a picture. Also I will be using the amp on top of it. 900 watt fosgate Punch 301m.
No, you can't. The proper ported box is generally about double the size of its sealed counterpart. Just stuffing some ports in that box would result in a nasty alignment (poor frequency response characteristics).

"Bottoming out" means the box is allowing the speakers to over-extend past their maximum excursion limits (xmech) and either 1) bottoming the voice coil against the backplate, or 2) bottoming out the soft suspension parts against themselves or the frame... either way spells damage to the driver.

Bottoming out is caused by the enclosure not allowing enough 'air cushion' behind the driver. As the cone moves in and out, it changes air pressure inside the box. When the cone moves out, the air molecules in the box expand (same amount of air, slightly more volume to displace) and a low pressure region is created. When the cone moves in, the air molecules are compressed, and the opposite is achieved.

Now knowing this, consider what happens if we have a larger box as compared to a smaller box (otherwise same speaker, same amp, etc). The smaller box has less air molecules to compress, creating more resistance to the cone moving in than does the larger box. Cone moves same amount... or tries to, fewer air molecules to compress, each air molecule must be compressed more to achieve same amount of cone motion.

So this means your sealed box is allowing your speakers' cones to move too much. There are two ways to change that... decrease internal volume of the box (remake it, or put wood inside it to alter its internal size), or decrease power going to the speakers (turn down the gains on your amp).

Enclosure volume also affects over all system frequency response. A bigger box will increase low-end response, while a smaller box will tend to limit low-end response while boosting upper-bass freqs. If I were you, I wouldn't guess. Calculate your box's INTERNAL volume, should be pretty easy using a simple tape measure. Then give Rockford Fosgate a call and ask them their sealed box recommendations for your model subs. This should give you an idea what you need to do. If the box is too big, alter it as said above. If its within their specs, just turn down the amp.
 
If you don't want to rebuild the box, you can also use Polyfill to reduce the airspace in the box. It smooths out the bass and reduces air turbulence in the box as well. Also not to point out the obvious but if you're gonna pack stuff around the box you may want to invest in some grills.
 
If you don't want to rebuild the box, you can also use Polyfill to reduce the airspace in the box. It smooths out the bass and reduces air turbulence in the box as well. Also not to point out the obvious but if you're gonna pack stuff around the box you may want to invest in some grills.
Actually you have that backwards. Polyfill increases perceived air space within an enclosure.
 
RF has all the owners manuals online , with specs for the subs , they have wiring and box building information as well .

Personally , I don't like , or listen to any music that requires a ported box . Country , rock ,a nd metal sound fine in my sealed box . Ported is more for hitting hard with the bass on your way to do a drive by :laugh:
 
Actually you have that backwards. Polyfill increases perceived air space within an enclosure.

Yeah, yeah, yeah...I was waiting to hear that one.:whistle:

Yes, it does increase perceived (acoustic) air space but regardless it is displacing the volume of the box that would normally be occupied by air molecules in effect reducing the volume of air in a sealed box. Since the Polyfill reduces turbulence in the sealed enclosure it can "simulate" a larger box but volume is volume and more material will always yield less usable air space.

If the subs are bottoming out due to too much air and not enough pressure than it wouldn't matter if it was filled with solid wood or spray foam...at least from a physical standpoint.
 
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Yeah, yeah, yeah...I was waiting to hear that one.:whistle:

Yes, it does increase perceived (acoustic) air space but regardless it is displacing the volume of the box that would normally be occupied by air molecules in effect reducing the volume of air in a sealed box. Since the Polyfill reduces turbulence in the sealed enclosure it can "simulate" a larger box but volume is volume and more material will always yield less usable air space.

If the subs are bottoming out due to too much air and not enough pressure than it wouldn't matter if it was filled with solid wood or spray foam...at least from a physical standpoint.
A simple search of any description of polyfil's use in audio enclosures will show you are quite incorrect. Again, poly is used to make perceived volume bigger, not the opposite.

If you want to add a material to the box to make its internal volume smaller, as I think I already suggested in this thread, pieces of wood would work MUCH better.
 
A simple search of any description of polyfil's use in audio enclosures will show you are quite incorrect. Again, poly is used to make perceived volume bigger, not the opposite.

If you want to add a material to the box to make its internal volume smaller, as I think I already suggested in this thread, pieces of wood would work MUCH better.

OK, Polyfill slows down air waves giving the acoustic equivalent of a larger box...the only perception is audibly, it's doing absolutely nothing to physically increase the amount of air space. It is changing the tonal characteristics...nothing more, nothing less. I understand what you are getting at, but I think we're splitting hairs here about a physical characteristic of air space (larger dimensions vs. smaller dimensions) and what Polyfill is designed to do which is improve the tonal characteristics of a speaker installed in too small of an enclosure.

However, it could just as well be used to remove the total volume capacity by simply occupying the space that would normally be taken by air (which in this case may be too much) which would be a cheaper alternative to building a new box. In any event perceived volume is not equivalent to physical volume and overextension of the sub is not related to perceived volume. Forget I said Polyfill and pretend I said a block of wood...that would equate to your solution, right? Like I said I'm not trying to disrespect here, just explaining my reasoning.

WOTBandit88, sorry for the hijack, it was honestly an offhand comment.
 
I do listen to alot of metal/country but sometimes ill pop in a rap CD. Im not lookin for some massive amount of bass. So the sealed box sounds like it should work fine. Ill just keep the bass level in check.

NP Cdoggwsu. Learn somethin new everyday.
 
I guess what I'm really getting at here is physical matter is physical matter. I suppose we can argue that wood may be more efficient at filling the space than Polyfill but now we're talking relative density of two objects doing essentially the same thing.

Now, if I were to compress the polyfill down to the size of a block of wood and glue it in the corner of the box, would you still tell me it couldn't possibly do the same job that wood would do?
 
OK, Polyfill slows down air waves giving the acoustic equivalent of a larger box...the only perception is audibly, it's doing absolutely nothing to physically increase the amount of air space. It is changing the tonal characteristics...nothing more, nothing less. I understand what you are getting at, but I think we're splitting hairs here about a physical characteristic of air space (larger dimensions vs. smaller dimensions) and what Polyfill is designed to do which is improve the tonal characteristics of a speaker installed in too small of an enclosure.

However, it could just as well be used to remove the total volume capacity by simply occupying the space that would normally be taken by air (which in this case may be too much) which would be a cheaper alternative to building a new box. In any event perceived volume is not equivalent to physical volume and overextension of the sub is not related to perceived volume. Forget I said Polyfill and pretend I said a block of wood...that would equate to your solution, right? Like I said I'm not trying to disrespect here, just explaining my reasoning.

WOTBandit88, sorry for the hijack, it was honestly an offhand comment.
Don't worry about disrespecting me man, its all good here. :)

I've understood your position from the start, inserting polyfil to physically occupy space, thereby reducing internal volume. The problem is, its not a solid material. How much poly would you place in the box to occupy, say, .5 cubic feet of space? How would you go about measuring the poly? I simply have never heard of anyone using poly to decrease enclosure size. I wouldn't even know how to go about attempting it. Nor would I understand the reason to try and do so. Sorry, no disrespect either, but its just a bad idea. ;)

Obviously wood would equate to my solution, it was my suggestion near the top of the page. ;) Its solid, easy to measure, and easy to secure to the box.
 
Don't worry about disrespecting me man, its all good here. :)

I've understood your position from the start, inserting polyfil to physically occupy space, thereby reducing internal volume. The problem is, its not a solid material. How much poly would you place in the box to occupy, say, .5 cubic feet of space? How would you go about measuring the poly? And it would need to be stuffed so tight as to no longer be compressable, losing any benefit of using poly fibers anyway.

Obviously wood would equate to my solution, it was my suggestion near the top of the page. ;) Its solid, easy to measure, and easy to secure to the box.

Agreed. I was thinking more like if the space didn't need to be reduced by much, it would probably be easier and cheaper...but I think we're on the same page here.

****, WOTBandit88...just ditch that box and build a custom fiberglass bed...:D
 
Go radical on space saving...

Roof_of_Boom.jpg


:D
 
I have about zero wood mechanic skills. Either of you fellas know of a place to buy a prebuilt box that would work for my application? Which is those 2 HX2 punch 12's.
 
Really an MDF box isn't hard to build at all. We're talking a skill saw (table saw would be optimal), some glue, screws and a little carpet. Have you confirmed that the box they are in is unacceptable? You'll get ripped off anywhere that sells boxes, Parts Express would be your best bet but at best you'll be able to only get close to what those speakers are spec'd for.
 
Someone on the RF forums posted the specs as follows:

[FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica][FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica]dual 4-ohm voice coils
CONsealer gasket hides mounting screws and prevents air leaks around the frame
frequency response: 26-200 Hz
power range: 150-500 watts RMS (250 watts per voice coil)
peak power: 1,000 watts
sensitivity: 88 dB SPL
top mount depth: 5-13/16"
sealed box volume: 0.8-4.0 cubic feet
ported box volume: 1.75-4.0 cubic feet

It looks like you have the RFD2212. According to the Spec Sheet they recommend a 1 cubic foot sealed enclosure so you could get pretty close by getting the 1.25 cubic foot box assuming the sub takes up about .25 cubic feet.
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