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Post Your Strange Trail fixes That Work!

aychdee said:
3 Weeks ago, my buddy in his 98 Heep grand cherokee snapped a chromoly 8.8 rear driveshaft 3 miles from the closest road. It has c-clip eliminators and a bunch of other good guy parts in the axle, the only problem is- it snapped about 3 or 4" off the wheel flange. It looked like an IFS front end with a broken ball joint:crazy: We pulled the shaft out, looked at it, had a beer and picked up what was left of the needle bearings (which were then held in with RTV, race was actually ok) And took his 4 d-cell maglite, pounded it over one end of the broken shaft, the pounded the other piece of broken driveshaft into the other end of the maglite. Wrapped the piss out of the shaft halves with duct tape top keep them from walking up and down too much, slipped the shaft back in and limped off the trail. Worked great enough to get him off the trail and onto a waiting trailer:wink1:

If only they made a maglite that was big enough to sleeve my 14bff shafts:thinking::haha:
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oh man that sucks man... i love my hemi jeep!
 
73redblaze said:
vice grips for broken brake line.
if one side is broken or torn clamp your vice grips above the cut. it will prevent your brake fluid from dumping out and it will keep pressure in the lines. you can drive with it clamped, but i wouldn't recommend it for long distances.
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I did this one the trail and drove home 80 miles on the highway!! The friends I was with were the saving grace, we used our CB's for coms all the way home, one in front spotting light and traffic, one in the rear for a safety buffer. I used the e-brake and downshifting to stop.
Lesson learned: when you lift a 2001 Expedition and then wheel it with your nutty Jeep buddies, get longer brake lines first.
 
not sure if this has been posted but i was reading about someone using bacon for something(radiator??) but anyways my friend and i raced dirt track and someone there spun a rod bearing or something was up with a main bearing, dont really remember which one but this worked on one so it should work on the other. all you need is a slice of thick cut bacon(uncooked of course) and there you have a temporary fix. If i remember right the guy that did it placed 4th or 5th out of 20 something
 
86bigblockK5 said:
..my friend and i raced dirt track and someone there spun a rod bearing or something... all you need is a slice of thick cut bacon(uncooked of course) and there you have a temporary fix. If i remember right the guy that did it placed 4th or 5th out of 20 something
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Just remember to change your bacon grease every 3000 miles. :rolleyes: :D
 
We had 4 rigs on a 2 day wheeling trip in Death Valley. Actually the mountains on the western side of DV. Me, Chickenrammit (Brian), CheyenneK20 (Chris) and MojaveK5 (Damien) were near the top of the 6000' pass when we heard Damien's k5's engine making a grinding noise when the suspension would compress or the truck would bounce on the trail. the noise got worse and worse. It was finally dark and nobody could figure out what was wrong until someone noticed that the balancer was grinding on the front crossmember. Chris with his built K20 towed the k5 up some decently steep trails to the top where we were going to camp for the night anyways and deal with the issue in the AM.

I am a mechanical NOOB so thanks to Brian and Chris' mechanical abilities they relized that there was NO rubber left in the engine mounts which allowed the eingine to drop enough to make the balancer rub the cross member. I tend to carry a lot of spare parts and crap and had a bunch of 7/16 - 9/16 nuts, bolts and washers as spares for suspension, etc. We, read; Chris and Brian, used my bottle jack to lift the engine when the bolts were loosened and took about 16 or so washers to use as shims where the rubber use to be and gave enough clearance to fix the problem. We were about 15 miles from the nearest road and well over an hour from the nearest town. This fix worked for Damiens 100 mile drive back to his home too.

I guess the lesson I learned on this trip was to be more mechanically edumacated and that that I can never have too many spare parts and pieces in my tool box.
 
It was technically on the freeway, but what the heck...

Noticed my oil pressure drop suddenly, followed by a white cloud in the rearview...a BIG white cloud. Three quarts of oil on a hot header will do that...

My oil pressure sender snapped off, leaving the brass threads in the block and perfectly flush with nothing to grab on to. After trying to wedge a flat head in and back it out with no luck, I took one of the bolts out that holds the fender on. The body fasteners all have a nice taper at the end of the threads and with a little hammer action while turning with a box end wrench, I was able to get it oil tight enough for the ride home.
 
74k20 said:
It was technically on the freeway, but what the heck...

Noticed my oil pressure drop suddenly, followed by a white cloud in the rearview...a BIG white cloud. Three quarts of oil on a hot header will do that...

My oil pressure sender snapped off, leaving the brass threads in the block and perfectly flush with nothing to grab on to. After trying to wedge a flat head in and back it out with no luck, I took one of the bolts out that holds the fender on. The body fasteners all have a nice taper at the end of the threads and with a little hammer action while turning with a box end wrench, I was able to get it oil tight enough for the ride home.
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Note to self......

Put several sized tapered screw in parts box.:bow:
 
Figured I would share this for those of us with hydraulic clutches.. Was on the Rubicon with some buddies and the first day out one of the guys in the group clutch master cylinder decided to take a dump, after 4 different tries rebuilding and stretching the spring (as the spring broke and was the main problem).
One of the guys figured he would donate the slide spring from his .45 caliber semi-auto hand gun to see if we could keep going or turn around and head to the parts store. We put it in and it worked perfectly for the next two days and the entire 150 mile trip home.
 
don't think that will work, as the .45 spring is smaller wire and much longer than the clutch master cylinder spring, but I would try if you really needed it.
 
This has happened 3 times now. Tore the front spring hanger from the frame, left front wheel. Used ratchet straps to keep the axel from traveling forward. Luckily I was on my way out each time and only a few miles from home.

'83 6.2L Suburban. Crusin' down the freeway and lost ALL power, engin shut off, no crank. I reached down the back of the engine and ripped the main power feed wires off the starter and used a pair of fingernail clippers to strip the insulation. I think I then used the fingernail cleaner thingy to jam the wires into one of the positive battery terminals. Worked great to get me off the freeway and back to my shop.
 
Last motorcycle trip to Baja we failed to pack the JB weld. Sure enough my buddy cased his bike and poked a good sized hole in the case about the size of a dime. After about an hour of mind melting ideas we field stripped a bic pin and melted it with our bic lighter to weld the hole shut. Rode it another 350 miles home like that with just a trace of sepage...
 
My buddy's K5 is a late 70's with glass fuses. We were up on a trail and he kept blowning a fuse that would kill his engine. We pulled some other fuses to replace but blew those too. We popped the tabs off of some beer cans shoved them in there to see if the truck would burn down but I ran like a champ. I belive it is still that way to this day.
 
My dad and I were exploring some hills around our house in a Jeep J-10 pickup. We dropped the rear driveline after both u-joints gave out. Teh only tools we had were some open end wrenches and some pretty healthy chain. We used the U-bolt retainers to go through the chain on both ends and after a few seconds or twisting up the chain the truck started moving. We drove about 10 miles home on really crappy fire trails with a chain as a rear driveline.
 
NV_K5 said:
My dad and I were exploring some hills around our house in a Jeep J-10 pickup. We dropped the rear driveline after both u-joints gave out. Teh only tools we had were some open end wrenches and some pretty healthy chain. We used the U-bolt retainers to go through the chain on both ends and after a few seconds or twisting up the chain the truck started moving. We drove about 10 miles home on really crappy fire trails with a chain as a rear driveline.
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I am sure you twisted the chain before bolting it, the chain will shorten quite a bit when twisted like that, but it sure is a genius idea I never even considered this usage.
I always have plenty of trucker chains with me.:bow:
 
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