Power block on the firewall

[sandawgk5]

The power block on the firewall by the brake booster, where does it get its power from the alt? straight off the batt?


I am going dual batts and a remote starter and all that jazz do I need to run a wire to that terminal so everything else will still get power? I might also put a 1 wire 200 amp alt on while I am at it. The 2 batts are a good excuse to upgrade yes?

Thanks

Ira

 

[pauly383]

I gotta little picture that may help for up to 87 . The big black line is MY modification .

 

[sandawgk5]

I gotta little picture that may help for up to 87 . The big black line is MY modification .

So the block is betwen the two fusible links? What mods do I have to do inorder to reomve the fusible links? I dont like them.

Dik

 

[pauly383]

You need them , to prevent your wiring melting down . If one does pop , use a smaller guage wire as a temporary fuse .

Otherwise you can go to a stereo shop and get circuit breakers , but sometimes factory crap just works , so I'd keep the fusibles .

 

[sandawgk5]

You need them , to prevent your wiring melting down . If one does pop , use a smaller guage wire as a temporary fuse .

Otherwise you can go to a stereo shop and get circuit breakers , but sometimes factory crap just works , so I'd keep the fusibles .

So I would remove the line from the back of the alt and attach it too my main positive line coming from the battery to the engine compartment? I am really confused now . It looks like it attaches to the output of the alt. If so when I run a 200 amp alt then the fusible link would keep blowing.

Am I really retarded on this?


Dik

 

[pauly383]

No , look at my pic carefully , see the arrow ? Remove the wires form the starter , so only the battery cable , and solenoid wire remain . And make the junction block run straight to the battery .

I hated having all those smaller wires down there by the exhaust , and they went to battery anyway , so why have them down there .

 

[sandawgk5]

No , look at my pic carefully , see the arrow ? Remove the wires form the starter , so only the battery cable , and solenoid wire remain . And make the junction block run straight to the battery .

I hated having all those smaller wires down there by the exhaust , and they went to battery anyway , so why have them down there .

I will have to take a look at it when I get home.

I think we are talking two different things, where does the block on the firewall get its power from normally the battery? It just comes off the positive side of the starter solenoid?

When I do a remote solenoid I should run a wire from the battery to that power block on the firewall and be done with it correct? I should not have to change anything else other than removing any unused wires.

Man this makes my head hurt

Thanks for the help.

Dik

 

[pauly383]

Yes it got it from the starter area , I hated that .

I run it over with the alternator wire , and down the loom over the manifold/valvecover . I didn't want anything by the exhaust except what has to be there .

 

[sandawgk5]

Thanks

So when I do a remote starter solenoid just run a lead from the batt + up to the block on the firewall.

Dik

 

[JDNobodi]

Thanks

So when I do a remote starter solenoid just run a lead from the batt + up to the block on the firewall.

Dik

That's what I did. However I need to add a fuseable link or a fuse for my Alt wire.

BTW, I don't like have any wires going to the battery, just cables. Batteries are prone to corrosion and having the power wire corrode is a pain in the ass.

 

[sandawgk5]

That's what I did. However I need to add a fuseable link or a fuse for my Alt wire.

BTW, I don't like have any wires going to the battery, just cables. Batteries are prone to corrosion and having the power wire corrode is a pain in the ass.

I guess I should have said cable. My charge wire will most likely be 4 or 2 AWG . I have plans for a 200 amp alt . If I have any 1/0 left over I will just use that if I can make it fit.

Dik

 

[JDNobodi]

I may up-grade mine also. The way I did my wiring made it simple. The problem is finding a fuse or fusible link that is big enough for 4 AWG.
The factory wiring for 74 and 79 (The wiring harness in my 74 is from a 79/80, the first year of the blade fuses.) gets crazy under the hood. GM has wires going all over the place but end up leading up to the same place. I end-up wiring like Pauly383's diagram except my alternator hot wire leads to solenoid on my firewall.

 

[sandawgk5]

I brain farted I was thinking a 200 amp alt put out 200 amps and did not see how those little wires were going to take that much power. When in actuality it will only put out the power required and does not really go through those fusible links rather back to the battery.

Dik

 

[JDNobodi]

Ummm, basically that's what going to happen unless all those little wires start drawing a good load.