Welcome To CK5!
Registering is free and easy! Hope to see you on the forums soon.
Score a FREE Membership sticker when you sign up for a Premium Membership and choose the recurring plan.
Discussion in '1973-1991 K5 Blazer | Truck | Suburban' started by Piranha300, Nov 27, 2001.
Anyone else ever have this problem? Its on a 91 k5. Any quick fixes? Thanks
Does the passenger side switch work,or are both switches out? If only one side is out then it is more than likely the switch plug has a short/broken connector.
Have you checked the fuses?
<font color=orange>Bleedin' Chevy Orange</font color=orange>
No quick fixes I can think of. Don't think they are fused. Mine somehow melted through the insulation, and grounded on the door. Easy fix for me, then again, I don't have door panels or a dash in yet, so I could see the problem quickly.
First thing I would do is check the fuse panel for voltage at all of the "12V" accessory plugs. The PDL's get 12V all the time.
You can also check the underdash connectors, both are near the doors underneath the dash. Two plugs per side, one is PW, one is PDL. Relay can go bad as well, but again, not an easy fix. Easier to check the connectors under the dash. (pulling glove box would get you there on passenger side)
If neither side is working, its either a short in the doors somewhere, or not in the doors. You can check for voltage at the plugs going TO the doors, (again the ones near the doors, not on the fuse panel) which will indicate where to look next.
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
Had a similar problem on my '91 Sub where the driver side switch would work when it wanted to. After verifying that there was indeed 12VDC at the switch, I carefully disassembled the switch and cleaned the contacts. Works perfectly now. Why not just buy a new switch module, you ask? Because LMC wants $40 a pop and the dealer...well, we all know how that story goes.
There are 3 wires on the driver switch : 12VDC constant, 12VDC when moved to "lock", 12VDC when moved to "unlock". I can't remember what the colors of the wires are. The switch is easy to remove from the panel with a screwdriver (pry on the left/right sides) and a shop towel (to prevent scratching, in case you slip). I'd check voltages before anything else.
The learning curve is a toll road...ride with someone who has already paid!
<a target="_blank" href=http://photos.yahoo.com/abshort1>U.S.S. Nimitz II</a>
My wires acually broke in the door to door jam boot. it is a pain in the ass to fix becuase everything is so tight and there isn't much slack in the wires, but I used butt connectors and it fixed my not working power locks.
Ben 87 Jimmy
Just went out side (cold) and cycled my locks a few times.
Check the door lock relay.(under dash).-Jim
88 5.7 5in lift 35"procomp at's
700-208-456-3in exh w/flowlowder 10 bolts & some ORD stuff
two things to check, both have happened on my 90. Make sure the door button (on the outside handle) is all the way out, wiggle it a bit and make sure. Mine won't budge if it's in the slightest bit. Also check the linkage inside the door. I've had the arm pop off a few times. Easy fix. This is all assuming yo can hear the actuator workin, but don't get any results. If you don't hear jack, then it's electrical. HELP makes replacement switches for your door locks if it comes down to that.
Why do people keep calling it a Bronco!!!!!
Separate names with a comma.