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Power steering bleeding

Clod_King

1/2 ton status
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Jun 7, 2005
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Grimsby Ontario
Hey I replaced my power steering pump, and was wondering what the bleeding operations were?

Keep in mind that I have about 2 feet of snow built up, on, and around my truck right now...
 
As far as I know and what has worked for me is jacking the frontend up. Then turning the wheel slowly back and forth a fews times while checking the fluid level. Then start it up and do the same thing til you get the air out. Mine took me quite a few turns.

Mark
 
the the front tires off the ground, start the truck up.. and start turning all the way left, hold for a few seconds, then all the way right, hold for a few seconds... check the fluid periodically. Keep going till the bubbles and the milky look goes away. Carefull not to overfill or when you shut the truck off you'll have a mess!
 
Okay, now the major problem is:

Can I limp my truck around the corner with bubbles in my system??

I mean like just fill up the resevoir, and go for a literally two second trip...

my truck is parked on a sloped, frozen, gravel driveway with snow all around it (as previously stated). I won't be able to jack the front end up at all in it's current location.

But I could take it behind my house in the back lot, and shovel an open space there. I just need to know that I won't be screwing something up in the process (like my new pump for instance...)
 
I picked this up somewhere in my travels.

BLEEDING AIR FROM POWER
STEERING SYSTEMS


When bleeding air from a power steering system, please follow AGR’s bleeding Instructions
only. AGR has found the following method is the only proper way to bleed a system.

IMPORTANT
Do not start the engine until system is fully bled. If on a Hydro Boost system, follow hydro boost
bleeding procedures after bleeding the power steering system.


Failure to read and follow these instructions will void any warranty and possibly cause severe damage to your power steering and/or hydro boost brake components. If you have any questions please contact your dealer.

CAUTION

When to Bleed

• After any steering component replacement.
• If any part of the power steering system is opened for any reason.
Why Bleed

• To prevent pump damage.
• To ensure proper system operation.
• To stop steering system noise.
Before Bleeding

Carefully inspect the steering system.

• Hoses must not touch any other part of vehicle. Steering system noise could be caused
by the hose touching the frame, body, or engine.
• All hose connections must be tight. Loose connections might not leak but could allow
air into the system. Do not over tighten o-ring hoses as the o-ring might be crushed.
Check flare seat type connections for exact fit.



How to Bleed

IMPORTANT
Step 1
Do not start the engine until the system is fully bled. Doing so may cause damage to the
power steering components. Pump internals are metal on metal. Any air in the system can
cause metal to metal contact and damage.

Step 2
Raise the front wheels off the ground, or remove the pitman arm or tie rod.

Step 3
Turn steering wheel fully to the left.

Step 4
Fill fluid reservoir to “full cold” level. Leave cap off.

Use only clear, name brand, premium, racing or synthetic power steering fluid, such as Royal
Purple or Red Line. Do not use transmission fluid, as transmission fluid does not contain the
same friction inhibitors/additives and tends to breakdown and overheat. Use of transmission
fluid will void the warranty.

Step 5
Whith an assistant checking the fluid level and condition, turn the steering wheel slowly and
smoothly lock to lock until fluid level drops in pump reservoir. If fluid level has not dropped,
no fluid has moved through the system. This normally indicates a large bubble in the
reservoir or pump. Until this bubble passes, no fluid will circulate through the system.


On systems with coolers, winches, or Rock Ram assist you may need to cycle in excess
of 40 times.

Do not turn the steering wheel fast as this will cause the fluid to overflow the reservoir.
Trapped air may cause fluid to overflow. Thoroughly clean any spilled fluid to allow for
leak check.
Step 6
Check fluid constantly to ensure proper level and that no bubbles exist.

— If you see any signs of bubbles, recheck all connections then repeat the steps above.
— Fluid level should be steady (Rock Ram’s level will vary slightly).
Step 7 Disable engine from starting. (Non Hydro Boost Brake Systems)

Crank engine several revolutions. If fluid level drops, there is compressed air trapped in
the system. Repeat above steps until fluid level is stable.

If fluid foams while cranking, wait 10 minutes or more until dispersed air has time to
accumulate and purge through the reservoir.
Step 8
Continue above steps until fluid level remains constant and no air bubbles are visible.

Step 9
If you have a hydro boost brake system continue, if not skip to Step 11.

Hydro Boost Systems Only


These Hydro Boost specific instructions must be followed. Failure to follow these procedures can
cause your new high volume pump to become damaged or fail completely. Do not turn the
steering wheel while performing these procedures.

WARNING


Discharge the Hydro Boost brake unit by performing three full presses on the brake
pedal.
— Watch power steering reservoir for any bubbling, foaming or burping.
— Once foam clears, crank engine until it just catches and shut off.
— Discharge Hydro Boost unit with three full presses of the brake pedal.
— Repeat these steps until no air or foam is seen in the reservoir.
— If brake pedal feels soft, spongy or funny, system is not fully bled.



— Repeat above steps.
It is recommended on Ford Super Dutys with Hydro Boost Brakes, that the original pressure line from the Hydro Boost Unit to the pump be replaced with the updated line. Also that the Ball Joints be checked for lubrication, stiffness or wear.

If you have excessive metal in the fluid, the hydro boost will not bleed, is noisy or the brake pedal feels funny, call AGR Technical Support.

If you need to replace your hydro boost brake unit, AGR recommends replacing with a ported unit and not an OEM unit.

Step 10 Enable engine to start. With engine idling, maintain fluid level.
Step 11 Reinstall reservoir cap.
Step 12 Return wheels to center.
Step 13 Lower front wheels to ground or reinstall pitman arm or tie rod if removed in Step 2.
Step 14 Run engine for two minutes. Turn steering wheel in both directions.
Step 15 Do not hold steering wheel against the stops.
Step 16 Verify the following conditions:


— Smooth power assist
— Noiseless operation
— Proper fluid level
— No system leaks
— Proper fluid condition
— No bubbles, foam, or discoloration
Step 17 If all conditions are satisfied, the bleeding procedure is complete.
Step 18 If any problem exists, turn off engine and see Special Conditions below.
TIP
NOTE
Special Conditions

If you experience any of the conditions listed below, there is still air in the system.

• Foam or bubbles in fluid (fluid must be completely free of bubbles).
• Power steering fluid should not rise in the reservoir when the engine is turned off. If
this occurs, there is trapped air in the system.
• Be alert to periodic bubbles that could indicate a loose connection, leaky o-ring, or a
bad flare seat in either the pressure or return hose.
• Discolored fluid (milky, opaque, or light tan color).


Eliminating Air in the Power Steering System

Follow the steps below to eliminate air in the power steering system.

Step 1
Turn ignition off. Wait thirty minutes. Recheck hose connections. Repeat start up procedures.
If problem still exists, replace or check for possible causes including:

— Return hose clamps
— Return hose o-ring or flare seat
— Pressure hose o-ring or flare seat
— All other connections
Step 2 Fill system and repeat bleeding procedure for each possible cause.
Eliminating Noise in the Power Steering System

If you hear a whining or groaning noise originating from the pump after all air is out of
the system (if air is not out, see Special Conditions), then do the following:

Step 1 Check belts for slippage.
Step 2 Mark pulley and make sure it is not slipping on the shaft.
Step 3 With the engine running, recheck hoses for possible contact with frame, body, or engine. If no contact is found, cool fluid and repressurize system.
Step 4 After cooling fluid, start engine to come up to operating temperature and recheck.

www.agrperformance.com
 
If the truck is moving or stationary the PS pump isn't going to know the difference, little air won't kill the pump, its also not going to know if its wheels are off the ground or not.
 
If the truck is moving or stationary the PS pump isn't going to know the difference, little air won't kill the pump, its also not going to know if its wheels are off the ground or not.

Have you ever tried to turn the tires with the truck not running with the tires on the ground versus off the ground? There is a HUGE difference in the amount of pressure necessary to move the tires when comparing on or off the ground.
 
Yeah, you can do it with the tires on the ground... but i hate knowing I'm grinding tread off em' in one spot while i turn them back and forth... plus if you've got any kind of decent sized tired it's a pain in the neck to turn the wheel that many times.. But yeah, PS pump doesn't know the difference. Those are some good instructions up there. Never seen any so detailed.
 
I look at it like this - Ever have very low RPM and try to turn the wheel while wheeling or on the road? The resistant forces preventing the tire movement is much greater with the wheels on the ground. I don't know the physics of hydraulics, but I would think that the pressurized line has the potential of damaging the pump if a large enough air bubble hits the pump while under load. The pump was under pressure and the sudden release could be the problem. :dunno:

Air line lock - air getting trapped due to the resistant pressure and the pump momentarily "running dry".:dunno:

It may be as simple as like what was already said, less wear and tear (and work) for the person if the truck is lifted.

I have been bitten in the arse so many times, I tend to follow the instructions a little more often now. Sometimes anyways...
 
Could I drive the truck to the back lot behind my house with out the belt on the pulleys??

Then I wouldn't be driving the pump, but I could still relocate the truck.

Good? Bad??
 
I think you would be fine if you pulled the belt off.

Isn't the whole idea not to run the gearbox with air bubbles or low fluid in it? If you take the belt off, that keeps the PUMP from turning, but doesn't do anything for the steering gearbox itself. I think he'd be better off leaving the belt on and just driving it to the back of the house. At least some fluid would be pumped through the box on the way.
 
I was figuring that your pump would be doing more turning than your gearbox, but I'll admit that I am not familar with the inner workings of either.
 
You want to avoid metal on metal contact. Air bubbles in the line could allow the metal on metal contact in the gear box. I seized a gear box years ago after doing "simple" work. I am much more paranoid now.

"If you can't be a good example, then be a horrible warning."
 
i think you'll be just fine either way.. as long as you don't have to make a 10 pt. turn to get into your backyard. Going to run for what? 30 seconds? I don't think it'll hurt it any.
 
I actually don't have a back yard....

There is a comunity parking lot out behind my house. It's flat there, and I would quite possibly have to make a 10 point turn. It's a small area, like 8 spaces total, with houses surrounding it.

How long would the bleeding take??

If it doesn't take that long, then maybe I can back it out into the street, and do it there... hoist 'er up, and giver'...
 
thought about possibly removing the pitman arm off the steering box itself? ive done that before when i needed it bled on a sidehill.
 
I actually don't have a back yard....

There is a comunity parking lot out behind my house. It's flat there, and I would quite possibly have to make a 10 point turn. It's a small area, like 8 spaces total, with houses surrounding it.

How long would the bleeding take??

If it doesn't take that long, then maybe I can back it out into the street, and do it there... hoist 'er up, and giver'...

Should only take a few minutes. Just enough time to slowly turn the wheel back and forth a few dozen times. You are basically doing the same type of bleeding as if it were a brake line. The only difference is that the air is escaping through the return line into the reservoir at the pump.
 

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