Power steering box for Hydro assist

[wheels87k5]

After watching a few videos on how and where to drill on the siganaw steering box, I've come to the conclusion that none of them look like my PS box. So where do I need to drill and tap the box that fits on an 87 K5 Blazer?
Where they show to drill......it's where my mounts to the frame are.

Mine looks nothing like this. So where do I drill for the new ports?

 

[skunked]

@bent72 he's done a couple and just did one a week or two ago if you look at his build thread.

 

[Bent77]

Heres some decent pics starting on this page
Also one on page 169
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/the-bent77-k10-moab-junkie.322474/page-170

 

[wheels87k5]

This shows the top hole markings below the line.

This shows the hole drilled above the lines, more towards the top.

Does it matter or is one better than the other?

Thanks for the photos. This is what my PS setup looks like.

 

[Bent77]

Either side of the casting line is fine.

Have you pulled a steering box apart before? The input should be pulled (ideally) to keep from drilling or tapping into it.

 

[wheels87k5]

Never pulled apart a PS box but I'm getting ready to. I didn't want the pieces of metal to contaminate inside so it will be taken apart and cleaned. Shouldn't be that hard to do. Seen a couple of videos of rebuilding one and it doesn't seem too bad. Can't be any worse than rebuilding an NP208 with all those damn needle bearings.

Pics to follow.

Thanks for the input. BB17 is coming fast and I've got a lot to do.

 

[Bent77]

Never pulled apart a PS box but I'm getting ready to. I didn't want the pieces of metal to contaminate inside so it will be taken apart and cleaned. Shouldn't be that hard to do. Seen a couple of videos of rebuilding one and it doesn't seem too bad. Can't be any worse than rebuilding an NP208 with all those damn needle bearings.

Pics to follow.

Thanks for the input. BB17 is coming fast and I've got a lot to do.

Just pay close attention to how tight the retainer "nut" is on the input when you reassemble it.

And Dont turn or rotate it unless you wanna pick up 24 black and silver balls.

If you get in the weeds let me know

 

[454Sub]

IMO it's much easier and long term smarter to drill the top and front caps. The box is a POS to put back together, and if it ever wears out you have to do the work all over again to get assist.

 

[Bent77]

IMO it's much easier and long term smarter to drill the top and front caps. The box is a POS to put back together, and if it ever wears out you have to do the work all over again to get assist.

The only point to doing the side of the case is higher port pressure and faster reaction on the cylinder

So its a trade, depends on what you want

Ive always ported the box. Been real happy with it. Also always used a 1.5" cylinder

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The only point to doing the side of the case is higher port pressure and faster reaction on the cylinder

So its a trade, depends on what you want

Ive always ported the box. Been real happy with it. Also always used a 1.5" cylinder

Exactly.

Porting the top and end is easier, but the steering speed is slower doing it that way.

 

[454Sub]

I just hate doing the box. It ranks with actual pancakes on the difficulty meter. Literally balls everywhere, balls on everything.

 

[Bent77]

I just hate doing the box. It ranks with actual pancakes on the difficulty meter. Literally balls everywhere, balls on everything.

Ship it to me with a return label

 

[Bent77]

I just hate doing the box. It ranks with actual pancakes on the difficulty meter. Literally balls everywhere, balls on everything.

I send you some pancake mix

 

[wheels87k5]

Got home about 1:30 pm from going to my Mom and Dad in laws for the weekend. Did some chores around the house and then started taking the PS box apart to do the porting. Got online to watch a video on steps for this process. Decided to get on here to check out the pics from @bent72 build and seen the posts on doing the caps instead of the side of the PS case. You know, if you would have ESP'd me the info before I got all the ball bearings out, it still wouldn't have made a difference because I like to learn by taking things apart and putting it back together. Sometimes I have extra parts left over and that just makes the project lighter.

I have read that the end cap is a weak point so that's why I went with drilling the case. I am about to that point so I'll let you know how it turns out in a little while. Now it really all depends on when dinner is done because I'm pretty tired and Big Brother comes on tonight so I may not get the box done until tomorrow. If that's the case, I'll post up then with some pics on the process of drilling the case. I went to

for the tear down. Pretty straight forward and fairly easy. We'll see when it comes to putting it back together.

I'm using a 1.5 x 8 ram for this project.

Thanks for all the input and ideas.

 

[Bent77]

Make sure the balls go back in b/w/b/w
I have all the torque specs for reassembly and set up if you need

 

[wheels87k5]

These ball bearings aren't color coded. I'll have to go by size. Yes, send me the torque specs please. Thank you.

 

[Bent77]

Straight from the bible

 

[wheels87k5]

Oh yeah.....that's what I needed. Thanks.

I had to call it quits. Not just for dinner, but I need a new 7/16" bit. My current one is dull so I'll pick up the new bit and be done tomorrow evening.

 

[Bent77]

Oh yeah.....that's what I needed. Thanks.

I had to call it quits. Not just for dinner, but I need a new 7/16" bit. My current one is dull so I'll pick up the new bit and be done tomorrow evening.

Come to BB, I can teach you how to sharpen those too

 

[6.2Blazer]

I chose to tap the top cap and buy the DIY4X end cap for like $35. Originally tapped the factory end cap but blew it out after about a year.

I have a factory diesel with hydro-boost and did not notice any reduction in turning speed.