Power steering box problem

[MTBLAZER89]

new problem need part # help

UPDATE BELOW IN MY LAST POST


Ok I just got done replacing both pitman arm seals and the input seal in my box. Refilled the pump with ps fluid and started the truck. turned lock to lock to bleed the box...was hard to turn (tires off the ground) Then it started pouring very foamy fluid out of the input shaft area. What did I do wrong was it because there was too much air in the box?? Not a big deal to replace that seal if I blew it out, but I was just wondering what I did wrong? Thanks.

one more question if I can't get this fixed I have access to another box, but it's a 74. I have the older style lines can I adapt this to my ps pump if I swap the lines too?

 

[Stomper]

Ok I just got done replacing both pitman arm seals and the input seal in my box. Refilled the pump with ps fluid and started the truck. turned lock to lock to bleed the box...was hard to turn (tires off the ground) Then it started pouring very foamy fluid out of the input shaft area. What did I do wrong was it because there was too much air in the box?? Not a big deal to replace that seal if I blew it out, but I was just wondering what I did wrong? Thanks.

one more question if I can't get this fixed I have access to another box, but it's a 74. I have the older style lines can I adapt this to my ps pump if I swap the lines too?

I wonder if the seal where it is leaking could have been put in in reverse, meaning if it is a one direction seal? Just a thought.....

 

[darkshadow]

my chevy buddy has the best/fasted way to bleed you box garinted no screw ups.


tires off the ground, disconect the retoun line and rout it down to a drain pan, and cap off the line inlet with some hose.

clamp a strate piece of rad hose to the ps tank and fill it with ps fluid, wate for all fome/bubbles to settle, and crank it for a sec.

this will drain most of the fluid in the rad hose. top it back up and turn to lock, crank/let bubbles settle. top off turn to other side lock crank. let settle.

then let the retoun line fill up a bit and with the least amount of spilling put it back on and give it a crank for a few secs.

if there is any bubbles you screwed up and need to do it again.



my buddy uses this meathod and can bleed a box in 20 min. and NEVER have a problem again.

 

[79Beast]

It's hard to say without looking at it, but I think you messed up/ put the seal in wrong on the input. Don't worry about the fluid being foamy. Next time fill the reservior, crank it for 20 secs or so, cut it off, top it off, then bleed by turning the wheels left to right. Or you can bleed by steering with the engine off.

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Don't know how I could have put it in wrong I just put it in the same way the old one came out. I might try it again.

What about the other steering box can I just use the older box with the lines on my PS pump??

 

[MTBLAZER89]

OK this is what i found. I took the ragjoint off to inspect the leakage. The seal that I got is too small and doesnt fit into the box tightly. It just spins with the input shaft. Damn wrong parts

Here is what I need. The part # I have is Chicago Rawhide #7905 the size is 20x30x7. Does anybody know which number is which? I need the outside diameter to be about 1/32nd of and inch bigger. Parts guys any help here??

Thanks

 

[rerun93]

sorry not tryin to hijack your thread but iam also having the same issue. mine is a 79 blazer was wondering if anyone new the p# for that seal as this is my only rig and i need to part inorder to break it down.

ty

ReRuN

 

[MTBLAZER89]

Well here is what I found. Powercraft part # 8525 is the rebuild kit for the input shaft. It is about $9 at Kragen/Shucks/Checker. I am gonna get it today so I'll let ya know how it works.