kirkallen143
Registered Member
Howdy,
I just replaced the seals on the power gear box at the input side just before the worm gear on the K20 'burb. It included the 3ea. teflon seals on the adjuster piston/actuator shaft, shaft seal, and dust seal w/ new lock ring. Some fluid was lost of course, so I added what was needed then bleed the system with wheels off ground and turning the wheel lock to lock 30 or more times w/ engine running. To let you know, I primed the system before starting the engine by disconnecting the BAT side on the dizzy and turning the engine over for a few minutes.
Now I have soo much slop in the wheel it isn't funny and everything is tight down below. The steering was fine before, w/ no slop, it just leaked alot. Does that mean there is more air in the lines? Is there another proper bleeding method I need to know about? I appreciate any help or suggestions, thanks.
Kirk
I just replaced the seals on the power gear box at the input side just before the worm gear on the K20 'burb. It included the 3ea. teflon seals on the adjuster piston/actuator shaft, shaft seal, and dust seal w/ new lock ring. Some fluid was lost of course, so I added what was needed then bleed the system with wheels off ground and turning the wheel lock to lock 30 or more times w/ engine running. To let you know, I primed the system before starting the engine by disconnecting the BAT side on the dizzy and turning the engine over for a few minutes.
Now I have soo much slop in the wheel it isn't funny and everything is tight down below. The steering was fine before, w/ no slop, it just leaked alot. Does that mean there is more air in the lines? Is there another proper bleeding method I need to know about? I appreciate any help or suggestions, thanks.
Kirk