CK5
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Power steering-It's harder to turn right than left
- Thread starter pblaze725
- Start date
That should be sufficient. I run my pump plus that reservoir with a 2" ram and its good. Without the res it would starve the pump at full lock.
That's good to know. I went out to make sure I didn't have "air lock" today.
I took off the high pressure line & spun the pulley around as it pumped out the fluid until only clean fluid came out.
It drives around fine but the symptoms occur when I am sitting in idle.
I found out the bolts in the back of the pump are leaking
I hate that I have to take the pump out of the can to replace it; it seems like you mess it up prying it apart!
I was very careful with it too...
Well,
I just called the good ol' O'Reilly boy's & told them I may have messed up my PS can while removing the pump from it and now it leaks.
They looked up the part I originally ordered which was a pump with the can attached. When they realized the other store gave me the pump W/O the can and I had to disassemble the original pump to install it; they told me to bring the one that leaks back in and swap it out for the one already assembled under warranty at no cost!
To be completely honest here I think I messed up the pump because I didn't cycle fluid through it before starting the rig.I just filled the reservoir and started the engine.
It goes to show it's always best to slow down, read the ENTIRE instructions before you do anything.
Fortunately, so far it has only cost me time and no money.
I will see how well it works with the new pump but I still plan to go hydro assist.
I just called the good ol' O'Reilly boy's & told them I may have messed up my PS can while removing the pump from it and now it leaks.
They looked up the part I originally ordered which was a pump with the can attached. When they realized the other store gave me the pump W/O the can and I had to disassemble the original pump to install it; they told me to bring the one that leaks back in and swap it out for the one already assembled under warranty at no cost!
To be completely honest here I think I messed up the pump because I didn't cycle fluid through it before starting the rig.I just filled the reservoir and started the engine.
It goes to show it's always best to slow down, read the ENTIRE instructions before you do anything.
Fortunately, so far it has only cost me time and no money.
I will see how well it works with the new pump but I still plan to go hydro assist.
Last edited:
evolve991
Resident Problem Child
I had the same problem and after replacing the gearbox it was the same. I dropped the steering stabilizer 'shock' and could steer it both ways to the stops with my pinky....I just wish I did that $160 earlier....
Are you saying your steering stabilizer was messed up & you thought it was the gearbox? I didn't think about that. I will check that out when I get home.
It is possible I could have damaged it while having fun out there:
Is your rig diesel? Mine was originally and my PS setup is for a diesel rig.
Nope but my reservoir is from a rig with hydroboost. I pieced some coppoer fittings together with some rad hose off the top of the stock pump to add the reservoir.
Not sure in the differences in the pump as my pump has a res built in and I added the hydroboost res. Not sure how much the hydroboost pump holds without the external reservoir.
Not sure in the differences in the pump as my pump has a res built in and I added the hydroboost res. Not sure how much the hydroboost pump holds without the external reservoir.
This is my PS pump: According to the parts store this goes on the diesel motor.
I took the time to clean and paint the reservoir and bracket while I had it removed.
I was thinking I could Y the tube, make a bracket, and add a second reservoir next to this one.
UPDATE: I swapped out my leaking pump for this assembled one. This time I flushed it out until new clear fluid drained out. It works a lot better than before. Total cost $0
I still plan to go hydro assist but right now the budget is tight. I'm going to start by ordering a new gear box. I don't have a 2 3/4" socket or the proper taps.This may become an off season project, I want to be trail ready at a moments notice.
I took the time to clean and paint the reservoir and bracket while I had it removed. I was thinking I could Y the tube, make a bracket, and add a second reservoir next to this one.UPDATE: I swapped out my leaking pump for this assembled one. This time I flushed it out until new clear fluid drained out. It works a lot better than before. Total cost $0
I still plan to go hydro assist but right now the budget is tight. I'm going to start by ordering a new gear box. I don't have a 2 3/4" socket or the proper taps.This may become an off season project, I want to be trail ready at a moments notice.
MT-
Did you modify your PS pump like in this link?
LINK:http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?3594-power-steering-pump-mod
Did you modify your PS pump like in this link?
LINK:http://www.wheelindixie.com/forums/showthread.php?3594-power-steering-pump-mod
evolve991
Resident Problem Child
Yes. Sorry for the late reply. I had 2 steering boxes go bad on my 70 C10 and this felt exactly the same so I went directly to the parts store and bought a new one.
After fighting the damn thing in I just left it in when I discovered the real problem now I have a nice shiny gearbox and no stabilizer. It would go left to the stops but only halfway right before stuttering and whining like a bad gear.
I still haven't checked that out.(damaged stabilizer)
I had a little fiasco with the O'reilly boy's about a "Limited lifetime warranty"
I changed my pump AGAIN and it now doesn't leak & runs smoother than before.
I am studying the previously mentioned links and am putting together a parts list for my hydro assist.
I had a little fiasco with the O'reilly boy's about a "Limited lifetime warranty"
I changed my pump AGAIN and it now doesn't leak & runs smoother than before.
I am studying the previously mentioned links and am putting together a parts list for my hydro assist.
Ems offroad also has the cap for the steering box, they will also tap the other cap. You take it off and usps the cap to em and they will tap it and send you the cap with it. I bought a 2.0 ram with hoses and the mounts from trail gear, was a lil over 200.00 but complete. Mod the brackets a lil and its a done deal. A derale power steering cooler is like 25.00, also do the mod to the pump. Mine works real good, was under 300.oo and a piece of cake. I have the pics in my build thread also. It turns 39s locked with one finger. I bought a used junkyard steering box and adjusted it, has worked for the last few years very nicely.
For the reservoir i cut the neck top off of an old pump, then welded a 8 inch long piece of exhaust tubing to the neck and then welded the top on the tubing. Then the stock cap still works, cost me 2.00 in tubing.
For the reservoir i cut the neck top off of an old pump, then welded a 8 inch long piece of exhaust tubing to the neck and then welded the top on the tubing. Then the stock cap still works, cost me 2.00 in tubing.
After an extensive review of the thread MTBLAZER posted I see one post which says with a 10 bolt/D44 you need to use a 6" ram. Can anyone Confirm/ deny this as a fact?
6" hydro ram link:http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7258-6&catname=hydraulic
6" hydro ram link:http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?item=9-7258-6&catname=hydraulic
Yep same way. I have been following a thread on Pirate about different compatable pumps to get more volume though. I have the 2" ram and it is a bit slow at idle.
Yep. D44/10b use a 6" ram and a 60 uses an 8".
owenst7
1/2 ton status
This is correct if you have the tie rod the stock distance from the rotating center of the knuckle (kingpin/balljoint). The correct way to determine this is measure the distance that your tie rod pans during lock-to-lock. It really isn't a big deal so long as you're locking your steering box before you max out your knuckle. If the ram is long enough to travel the full distance that your box/steering arm/pitman arm make your tie rod move, you won't have issues so long as your box goes into bypass before you max out your knuckle/shaft. If that happens you will need to limit the throw on your ram by adding a stop either internally or externally.
The stock steering stabilizer travels 6" from lock to lock.
I'm glad I checked, i would have had to get an axle to match my ram if I bought the wrong one!
I took off my steering stabilizer and it steered the same way eliminating the damaged steering stabilizer hypothesis.
I'm glad I checked, i would have had to get an axle to match my ram if I bought the wrong one!
I took off my steering stabilizer and it steered the same way eliminating the damaged steering stabilizer hypothesis.
Could someone clarify for me the tap required for the hydraulic fittings?
I see it says in the links to use a 1/4" NPT.
The 1/4" is not the diameter of the tap ( the hole is 7/16"), its the size of the tool end (tap handle) correct?
I see in the pic that the tap reads 1/4 -18 NPT. Is this all I need to know?
I see it says in the links to use a 1/4" NPT.
The 1/4" is not the diameter of the tap ( the hole is 7/16"), its the size of the tool end (tap handle) correct?
I see in the pic that the tap reads 1/4 -18 NPT. Is this all I need to know?
Ok I answered my own question. This is a standard tap size. I can find it just about anywhere:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...19x00001a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM209385356
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...19x00001a&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=SPM209385356
Yes 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT. The NPT is pipe thread, Its different than standard 1/4 or 3/8 taps.
Are you just tapping the top cap? I think its the easiest option to tap the top and replace the front cover. No shavings to worry about too.
Are you just tapping the top cap? I think its the easiest option to tap the top and replace the front cover. No shavings to worry about too.
