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Power steering won't bleed. Wits end

76k5blazerr

76k5blazerr

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Wondering if anyone has ever ran into this, I recently finished rebuilding the front end of my 89 Jimmy, new ball joints/wheel bearings/hubs/tie rods/all steering linkage. Replaced steering box and pump and both hoses because the box leaked profusely. Got a Lares reman box and a cardone reman pump. Bled system as follows:

Engine off, truck jacked up, turn steering lock to lock many many times
Crank engine, turn lock to lock even more times

I could not get it to bleed, the steering was always tight and jerky, it would turn ok in the air but when you drove it the steering was tight. So i figure I got a fubar reman pump, well I just got its warranty replacement installed this evening and I have the same problem. There are no visible fluid leaks anywhere. I can see microscopic bubbles in the fluid in the pump while it is running. No bueno in a hydraulic system. I am at my wits end, could it be the box that is leaking air somewhere? Is every reman steering part just an absolute POS??
 
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how many times did you cycle?
it takes dozens some times.


BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM
After replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system, you must bleed air from the system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise and over time could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system proceed as follows:

1. Begin with the engine off, front wheels off the ground, and wheels turned all the way to the left.

2. Add Low Temperature Climate Service Fluid to the "FULL COLD" mark on the fluid level indicator.

3. Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side to side without hitting stops.

Important :This may require turning the wheels from side to side twenty times. On systems with long return lines or fluid coolers, turning steering wheel lock-to-lock forty times may be required. Keep the fluid level at the "FULL COLD" mark. Fluid with air In it has a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from the fluid before normal steering action can be obtained.

4. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "FULL COLD" mark.

5. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to the ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes.

6. Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise.

Important :Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system.

7. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 3 and 4 except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.
 
76zimmer said:
how many times did you cycle?
it takes dozens some times.


BLEEDING THE POWER STEERING SYSTEM
After replacing the fluid or servicing the power steering hydraulic system, you must bleed air from the system. Air in the system prevents an accurate fluid level reading, causes pump cavitation noise and over time could damage the pump. To bleed the power steering system proceed as follows:

1. Begin with the engine off, front wheels off the ground, and wheels turned all the way to the left.

2. Add Low Temperature Climate Service Fluid to the "FULL COLD" mark on the fluid level indicator.

3. Bleed the system by turning the wheels from side to side without hitting stops.

Important :This may require turning the wheels from side to side twenty times. On systems with long return lines or fluid coolers, turning steering wheel lock-to-lock forty times may be required. Keep the fluid level at the "FULL COLD" mark. Fluid with air In it has a light tan appearance. This air must be eliminated from the fluid before normal steering action can be obtained.

4. Start the engine. With the engine idling, recheck the fluid level. If necessary, add fluid to bring the level to the "FULL COLD" mark.

5. Return the wheels to the center position. Lower front wheels to the ground. Continue running the engine for two or three minutes.

6. Test the vehicle to be sure the steering functions normally and is free from noise.

Important :Inspect for fluid leakage at connection points along the power steering system.

7. Recheck the fluid level as described in Steps 3 and 4 except that the fluid level should now be up to the "FULL HOT" mark after the system has stabilized at its normal operating temperature.
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I probably cycled it 100 times with the first pump and never got it right. I mean I really tried every possible way I could think of to bleed it. With this second one today I probably did it about 30 times and then test drove it and got pissed and parked it when it performed the same way. That’s why I ask if it could possibly be the box. I have had steering systems apart many times before and never had this much trouble bleeding one. I’ve also never dealt with a reman box before.
 
Been fighting one myself. Ready to push it off a cliff. Tried everything including vacuum bleeding the system. No bubbles present anymore and still no power steering or brake. Starting to think I got a bad reman pump, which sucks because its a van and very difficult to change.

Can you vacuum bleed a hydroboost setup?

Having problems bleeding the steering system on my wifes 2001 GMC Safari. I have hydroboost on my '91 V3500 and when I replaced it bleeding was no big deal. This van just wont bleed out all the air. Replaced the power steering pump and found that the hydroboost had been leaking which likely...
ck5.com ck5.com
 
HankScorpio said:
Been fighting one myself. Ready to push it off a cliff. Tried everything including vacuum bleeding the system. No bubbles present anymore and still no power steering or brake. Starting to think I got a bad reman pump, which sucks because its a van and very difficult to change.

Can you vacuum bleed a hydroboost setup?

Having problems bleeding the steering system on my wifes 2001 GMC Safari. I have hydroboost on my '91 V3500 and when I replaced it bleeding was no big deal. This van just wont bleed out all the air. Replaced the power steering pump and found that the hydroboost had been leaking which likely...
ck5.com ck5.com
Click to expand...
I just read your thread, sorry about all your trouble. I saw the post in there from @ZooMad75 that said to try and bleed the steering by turning the tires instead of turning the steering wheel, I am confused as to why that might be different but I am willing to give it a try and will do so today and report back.
 
76k5blazerr said:
I just read your thread, sorry about all your trouble. I saw the post in there from @ZooMad75 that said to try and bleed the steering by turning the tires instead of turning the steering wheel, I am confused as to why that might be different but I am willing to give it a try and will do so today and report back.
Click to expand...
There is something about turning the gear via the wheels/pitman vs the steering wheel. It’s a pain to do 20-30 times by hand but it usually will allow the air to get worked out.
 
ZooMad75 said:
There is something about turning the gear via the wheels/pitman vs the steering wheel. It’s a pain to do 20-30 times by hand but it usually will allow the air to get worked out.
Click to expand...
Well, I probably did it about 30 times by hand and no change. No fluid leaks anywhere, just still have micro bubbles in the pump. Never had this much trouble before bleeding steering. Not sure if the parts are just junk? Do I just keep replacing them till I get some good ones or even bother buying brand new ones, wonder if they’d do the same thing? Wish I had some oem spares.
 
I am thinking the pump is defective. There is no way a steering pump will not bleed with all the things you have tried.
 
1-ton said:
I am thinking the pump is defective. There is no way a steering pump will not bleed with all the things you have tried.
Click to expand...
That’s what I thought first, and the guy who does my alignments agreed. But it’s doing the same thing with the second reman pump. And I’m sure it’s possible to have 2 bad remans in a row, I’m just wondering if it’s possible it’s the box that is the problem. Either way if I replace the pump again I’m just going to by a new one. Won’t get another reman. Probably never should have in the first place.
 
has the return line been modified or moved locations into the can/reservoir ? if the return is above the fluid in reservoir it will splash and create bubbles.

if it stock then... I am at a loss. I have never had an issue bleeding a pump or gear, esp w/o Hydraboost. My routine is to complete the hydraulic circuit once the major components are in place.
Fill with Power steering fluid, with belt off I will turn pump by hand, refill, turn, refill. Then I will continue to finish install of the other components, or go to lunch.
Back to the pump turn by hand again fill as necessary, put belt on. Crank engine, if it starts shut down, fill pump, crank engine, fill pump, If full start engine 20 to 30 seconds shut down, check lvl, fill do short engine run till lvl stays full cold. Start and rock steering wheel. not full turns. Shut down and check lvl, fill repeat. Sounds tedious, it is kinda, but I do not like to let pump cavitate.
If your pump has slit whine when doing work add 1 oz of pozi traction clutch friction modifier lubricant. I have had great success with Motorcraft XL-3.
I have never seen a return line suck air, like a fuel line, but I suppose it possible.
 
The only other thing I can think of is the hydroboost lines are connected backwards. You might check a hydroboost diagram to make sure your lines are connected to the correct position.
 
I do not believe this Jimmy has a hydraboost.
That said the 2 pressure lines have different size tube nuts at hydraboost unit, factory. It should be impossible to mix up.
 
Yep, no hydro boost, just the 2 hoses. I guess I’ll be replacing the pump again with a nicer new one. Why can’t stuff just work!
 
Every time I had to buy remanufactured, from pep boys, or AutoZone O'Reilly's, I ask how many they have in stock? Chances are I will be back looking for an exchange. The last remanufactured A6 compressor I purchased leaked out the front seal in 2 days. I updated to a new unit, new design from Four seasons
 
/\ /\
This is where I'm at. Often pessimistic and skeptical of rebuilt parts. I'm on the 3rd starter in 5 years for my S10. The second one I got I ended up getting the one with the lifetime warranty. When I swapped it out for number three, no charge. And it's a PITA to swap of course.
 
I swear, these mass "rebuilders" just clean and box, esp if it is an alt or starter. They justify be claiming miss diagnosis. Pure garbage.
 
We had a bus at work that I tried bleeding for 3 days, finally got it but what a biotch, granted the system is quite a bit larger but it would be good for an hour or so and then burp some more air…shop manual called for cranking the engine but not starting it first, then turning the wheels with no weight, then turning lock to lock on the ground and finally driving it
 
Just ordered a cardone "new" unit for my trainwreck. We will see what happens this weekend.
 
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