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Power steering won't bleed. Wits end

I did the hydraboost on mine, Saturday. Removed oil with mighty vac 2gl vac pump. I filled the reservoir to full line. Oil was nice and clean too. Haven't started engine or turned pump yet today I checked lvl and is down an 1/8" from full.
Tomorrow I will tearing into the cooling system including the water pump. I will hand turn the P/S pump. I know not every one has the time to let it sit after filling, I find it best.
 
Build a new cap with vacuum fitting. 15" vacuum for a day or two. That was the only way I could get mine to stop whining.
 
Well, installed pump #3 this evening, different brand and also not a reman, and the steering still isn't right. I sat out there listening to music turning the wheel back and forth for at least 30-40 mins. I turned from the steering wheel, turned from the wheels themselves, engine off, engine running, tried it with the left side higher than the right, tried it with the right side higher then the left. Still jerky and tight steering. Also tiny micro bubbles you can see cycling around in the fluid in the pump. I don't know what else to do. Nobody has said so far that it could be the box that is the problem but there is nothing left to try. And I really don't want to do it either. No fluid leaks anywhere. This pump at least looked better than the remans.

This is just the most irritating thing. You guys have seen some of the stuff Ive done on here, plenty of people more experienced than me but I am not a novice mechanic by any means. I have had steering systems apart many times doing engine swaps, replacing leaky hoses etc. and never had the least bit of trouble bleeding the system. Something is just not right here. I joke about selling the truck but now its making me want to. I haven't driven it really since April or May when I began the front end rebuild. I should've just left the old leaky pump and box on there. That thing leaked like crazy and the pump would get so low that it was almost out of fluid and it still steered just fine. Why is this so difficult? Thanks for coming to my rant.

One last thought though, I'm using power steering fluid. In the past I have run PS fluid and ATF in different rigs, no preference I would just top them off with whatever it looked like was in there. Never had a problem with either. Is there a chance these problems are stemming from the use of regular PS fluid?
 
I wouldn't think that the oil is the problem. I have used ATF a fair amount myself too. But I don't think that power steering oil could be so bad as to hold onto air so much.

I would leave it sit overnight, then try again tomorrow. I have had dual steering boxes on mixer trucks fight some. Often have to set it down some to out some pressure on the tires when the jerky crap won't clear up. I don't put full weight on it though, until it straightens up some. If it calms down, then a slow test drive.

Give yourself and the oil a break for the evening.
 
Are the lines new? Is it possible that something collapsed internally in a line not allowing everything to bleed or flow?
 
Are the lines new? Is it possible that something collapsed internally in a line not allowing everything to bleed or flow?
Yes both hoses are new. I don’t think they are the problem, but I am starting to think it’s something like that in the box causing flow issues. Anything is possible at this point.
 
It's supposed to go, put system together do not start, jack up front, tires off ground cycle wheels 5 times back and forth, push brakes 3 tes slow and solid, repeat 50-100 times, wait a day, do again, then start the truck, watch fluid level during bleeding and a start up, if fluid level drops at start up you still have air..
 
I have been facing the same issue after replacing most of my steering components... My last idea and not sure if it's the same for you, but I have aftermarket long tube headers and the previous owner chopped up the bracket for the PS pump which wasn't the best design... Got rid of it and now I have hard steering. I'm going to make a new bracket to hopefully resolve this issue.

Please update if you find a solution, this crap is driving me crazy also!
 
Try the vacuum trick, it works. Sacrifice a cap, cut off the dipstick- It is hollow. Drill a hole. Add a vacuum fitting. Apply 15" vacuum. Wait. Rinse. Repeat.
BTW folks, NEVER use ATF in your PS Systems. If you replace the box I recommend RedHead steering in Auburn, WA

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Try the vacuum trick, it works. Sacrifice a cap, cut off the dipstick- It is hollow. Drill a hole. Add a vacuum fitting. Apply 15" vacuum. Wait. Rinse. Repeat.
BTW folks, NEVER use ATF in your PS Systems. If you replace the box I recommend RedHead steering in Auburn, WA

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View attachment 422469
I will try this, I have a psc upper tank with a air bleed cap...
 
I swear, these mass "rebuilders" just clean and box, esp if it is an alt or starter. They justify be claiming miss diagnosis. Pure garbage.

I think a lot of them just send a guy down to the wrecking yard (or the "reman guy" IS the wrecking yard), and pull a couple boxes/pumps... pressure wash, throw a new seal on the input and spray with cast grey...

"its got a 30 day warranty - so whats not to like? if it fails, send it back and we will be happy to send you another / different rebuilt unit... sometimes you just get a bad one, but by the time we send you three or 4, you will get it running again, and our prices are only 1/2 what the new one would be!"
 
Try the vacuum trick, it works. Sacrifice a cap, cut off the dipstick- It is hollow. Drill a hole. Add a vacuum fitting. Apply 15" vacuum. Wait. Rinse. Repeat.
BTW folks, NEVER use ATF in your PS Systems. If you replace the box I recommend RedHead steering in Auburn, WA

View attachment 422468

View attachment 422469

love it- I'm going to make one of these and go put it next to my gas cap that i drilled for a tire /shrader valve (emissions in CA now puts 30psi of pressure on your gas tank and expects it to hold without busting any plastic parts or solder joints- they busted the solder joints on my k5 sending unit o_0)
 
BTW folks, NEVER use ATF in your PS Systems.
I am curious why you say this. What information do you have about this?
I have been doing it for decades. And lots heavy truck manufacturers call it out for their steering systems. Paccar, International, Freightliner..
They say it right on the reservoir. ATF only.16606668081962606587122113648622.jpg

Even had several oil guys tell me that it works fine.
This is one of dozens around my work with dual steering boxes on 20K rated axles.
 
years ago, I had a 1990 suburban that refused to bleed after a bunch of what you are going through- eventually sorted itself out, and the issue was NOT the box.
I remember going online and asking for help... remember the fruck being jacked up, tires side to side, engine on... tires side to side... engine off and tires side to side... truck back on ground and engine on- tires side to side...

its been quite a while, but i think i remember the most productive part was waiting for a minute at each steering lock (tires off ground and engine running)... full lock left and wait for oil/bubbles to clear up a bit -then full lock right and wait for bubbles to clear up a bit...

but one more thing to consider : you are doing this with all of your steering bits connected to the front end? You may have to pop a drag link or pitman arm off that box????
after recentering the steering and playing with the clocking of various steering parts on a few of my trucks, i have come to realize that on very few of them is the box reaching full lock on either side, before something else binds, or before a stop bolt on a knuckle comes into play...

I'm pretty sure I remember giving the suburban some extra steering effort side to side, which was probably stressing a lot of steering stuff, and may not have been a good thing.
the last time I had the box off the K5 for frame crack repair... i bled the box before hooking up the steering components -just bolted there with its little sector shaft hanging in the wind... it went REALLY fast that time, and I know for fact my new tires would contact the drag link before the box is maxed out (I need to look into that too now)
 
A lot of our older heavy trucks call for 10w40 engine oil, newer stuff calls for ATF, curious as to why not use ATF if that’s what it specs?
 
I would not use atf in a automotive hydraboost system. I think, but have not looked, that Ps fluid is thinner than atf. My experience hydraulic boosters leak after atf is introduced.
I have seen atf used on many car and light truck power steering only system with no ill effects. Atf has more additives and detergents.
 

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