Power Stop 1 Click Brake Kit?

[NorCalAnthony]

Does anyone have any experience with these brake kits? The rotors on my 10 Bolt are pretty much shot thanks to the PO's lack of proper maintenance and I need to replace everything. I was originally going to grab some OE rotors with some Wagner Thermoquiet pads like my other vehicles but I saw these 1 click brake kits on RockAuto that have drilled and slotted rotors with matching pads for almost the same price. I like the idea of increasing the stopping power but my main hold up/second question is how do you do the brakes in the future since you can't turn the rotors? Do you just not need to worry about that anymore or are you forced to replace the rotors again?

Here's what I'm talking about in case anybody hasn't heard of them yet: http://www.powerstop.com/product/power-stop-z16-kit/

 

[wetoolowdingbangow]

Ive been through soooooo many different brake combos on all my vehicles this year...mostly due to premature wear from attempting to use regular auto store parts. I think that drilled and slotted rotters are a waste...they seem to act more like a cheese grader on pads then anything else. To top it off most MFGs dont cast the holes in their rotors which means they crack at some point.

I like regular old blank discs...surface area for the win.

I recommend raybestos at least for the discs. I like their pads too but hawk street pads are the best in my opinion. I believe youll get the best braking gain off really good pads.

No one really turns rotors anymore...well i mean they do but its a waste of time in my opinion. It used to cost me $25 a rotor to have them turned...new rotors cost that much now but beware there are many cheap, junky rotors out there.

 

[dyeager535]

I've actually been pretty impressed with the cheap $11(?) rotors I got off rockauto. I bought the cheapest they had because I had to drill them for larger studs and didn't want to experiment on better rotors. I've got these so hot I smoked the wheel bearing grease, they still seem to be flat.

Agree on the drilled/slotted, from what I was able to find on them the drilled will almost always crack, and the slots aren't needed with proper pads.

I *will* say that the latest set of pads I got (lifetime replacement) are absolute crap. The anti-squeak pads(?) are not bonded to the pad. They are clipped on using small fingers of the steel they are composed of, which is not spring steel. They are also multiple layers. There is no piece to retain the pad in the piston either....so assembling them, you have four metal shims that won't stay in place, nor do the pads stay in place if your pads are still tight to the rotor. I'd recommend a better brake pad set than bargain basement, which is what I'm sure they are giving as lifecycle replacements. This picture kind of shows the metal pieces that are a pain:

 

[George_Pimpdaddy]

I've had great luck with brake motive kits they have cross drill and slotted as well as just slotted i believe. Last brake job it was cheaper to try there kit with slotted and drilled and ceramic pads than my local parts guy could touch. over a year so far of heaving city driving and still happy. Look for them on ebay. Brake motive

 

[paratrooper307]

In most cases, slotted or cross-drilled rotors ( despite the fact that people make them, the rotor should really only have one or the other as doing both unnecessarily weakens the rotor) aren't really necessary except for applications that have a lot of heat buildup such as racing or heavy towing. On these type of trucks they're a waste. Save your money and look for thick rotors that won't warp or crack from repeatedly stopping a heavy vehicle.

 

[Blue85]

I prefer flat rotors for mud and sand. Junk gets pulled through the pads and also dries in the holes.

Plus in the rust belt, those extra features in the rotor get rusty (they're not being wiped by the pad all the time) and wear the pads faster. Not to mention, people buy drilled/slotted to look cool and aging ones look worse than flat. For "gassing", the slots make more sense than the holes, but is that really even an issue with newer ceramic pads? Thermal mass and surface area are both key performance characteristics of a rotor, so why reduce them?

 

[NorCalAnthony]

Thanks for all of the replies fellas. I'll probably just go with OE rotors and a good set of ceramic pads...

 

[Greg Ducato]

I find the EBC Yellowstuff pads to be the best at stopping my rig, I was amazed at the difference over a ceramic pad. They have worn out a set of Off shore rotors, I will be going with a cryo treated set of rotors next and some more EBC Yellowstuff pads.

 

[frankin5]

They do stop exceptionally well, I don't it matters where the rotors are from. EBC does a job on them. Factory rotors on 06 Ford ranger had pad size grooves in them and only half wear on EBC pads.