Power tailgate "improvement".

[dyeager535]

Edit: Going to put the parts to do this up top.

Bearing: On Ebay as 688W4 688ZZW4 618/8ZZ 688 OPEN 8*16*4 mm This translates very closely to a 5/16" ID. IMO close enough.

Bolt: Stainless Steel Shoulder Bolts (5/16" - 1/4"-20 x 5/16") 1046-010-0012 @ albanycountyfasteners.com

Spacer: 3/8" tube (SS is all I could find), .028" wall thickness, cut to .155" long.

Pics are here: http://s831.photobucket.com/user/dy... tailgate window roller upgrade?sort=3&page=1

Below is all fluff now. The above parts work. Will need to cut or grind most of the head off the shoulder bolt to allow it to move along the track without dragging excessively. Good thing is, you test fit first, it won't even go in the track if it's not been cut/ground thin enough.

Wish I could find a cheaper source for the shoulder bolts, they are expensive.These should be correct, and are $.82/ea, but no idea on shipping: https://www.boltdepot.com/Product-Details.aspx?product=14050



I didn't want to derail the relay thread, but if people are looking at tailgate upgrades, I'm working on coming up with a viable replacement to the plastic rollers that isn't too expensive and is fairly easy to do. I've spent more time, money, and effort on this so far than if I had just bought the replacements from LMC.

I assume the power windows in the door are the same, but I'm working on coming up with the parts to replace those plastic "rollers" with bearings. It's not easy to find the right parts.

Two tailgates I've taken apart show serious wear on the plastic roller. They are obviously seized on the pin that holds them in place. I'm sure it makes the motor work harder, which slows it down and draws more power than necessary. Knowing how nicely GOOD window mechanisms can roll up, this might be applicable to the doors though too. I hope so.

The common bearings that seem to be potential fixes are 8MM ID x 16MM OD x 4MM width.

So far I've not come up with a simple solution for the bolt to hold it though. Really need a shoulder bolt that has a 5/16" shoulder 5/16" long, with 1/4" or less thread. I ordered one, they sent the wrong piece and apparently aren't interested in sending me the right one. There is little clearance for a bolt head in the track, going to require grinding the head down. But, my thinking is that for most anyone, this will be a one time repair.

6MM ID x 8MM OD and 8MM ID x 10MM OD tubes are available, which will let me make the proper shoulder and spacer, but I'm going to have to spend more on the tubing than I had hoped. It should be enough to make multiple though, so the cost per should be pretty reasonable.

It's taking parts some time to get here, nothing I need is available local, so it will be some time before I am able to assemble everything and see how it works and get some pics.

The replacement should be fairly simple outside of getting to the rollers in the first place. Grind head of new bolt down to within a MM of it's life. Grind the head of the pin off, punch it out. Drill hole to diameter of new bolt in regulator arm. Install inner sleeve on bolt. Install bearing over sleeve. Install spacer. Install assembly to regulator arm. Tighten nut. Tack weld the nut to the bolt. Reassemble.

 

[6872xtc]

I don't know if it would help you, but I installed a set of the plastic rollers using axle style bolts that I had ground the heads down to make clearance in the track. But I have it in my head that maybe that truck won't work with bearings.

I like what you are trying to accomplish.

 

[dyeager535]

But I have it in my head that maybe that truck won't work with bearings.

"That truck"...not one of the C/K's?

Yes, even with the bearing on the metal piece GM used with the plastic roller, there is almost no clearance between the track and the head of the pin. Factory the metal head of that pin is recessed into the plastic roller. The 4MM bearing width allows very little wobble in the bearing when it's in the track, I'm hoping that will keep it from rubbing on the track if clearance is tighter than I expect.

 

[runamok151]

I was about to replace the motors on my door windows years ago. While taking the door apart to get to the motors, I noticed the plastic wheels in the tracks were locked up from old grease. I sprayed them w/ WD40 and Fantastic cleaner until I got all the old gunk. Dried them w/ the air gun and sprayed lithium grease on them and the tracks. That solved the problem and I didn't have to replace the motors. Obviously, it the wheel centers have wallowed out and don't track true, they may need to be replaced. But if they're just stiff, they can be cleaned and lubed. Plastic won't seize onto metal.

I haven't had my tailgate apart. Are the wheels similar?

 

[6872xtc]

Whoops, but at least you understood, even if I pushed the wrong button. ...

 

[ktmoutfront]

I did bearings. Just some I had. Made pins from solid rod, ran a set of threads on then tig welded them in. Thought the window was going to break with how fast it moved.

 

[dyeager535]

But if they're just stiff, they can be cleaned and lubed. Plastic won't seize onto metal.

I haven't had my tailgate apart. Are the wheels similar?

The problem in my case is that the pin the wheels rotate on is rusty/corroded. The plastic doesn't rotate, drags across the track, flat spot. Then if it does rotate, you get spots as the window rolls up that it "catches" or becomes more difficult for the motor to move. The tracks are also corroded pretty badly, but they appear to have been coated with something...still provides resistance to the rotation of the plastic wheel. Even the "spacer" portion of the plastic wheel has a flat spot on it, I assume from the wheel moving too far inside the track and hitting the track edge.

Based on the fact that my truck sits for extremely long periods of time, and these parts may get wet, it's probably to be expected that not everyone has the same issues. With the replacement parts costing something like $7, I figure if I can get a bearing in there for the same or less, even if it's not necessary, it's not any worse and is *likely* to work better.

I've considered just using a straight bolt of the appropriate diameter, no sleeve needed, just a spacer, however I didn't want to take too much material out of the regulator arm....not sure if it would hurt anything, just prefer to remove as little as necessary.

FWIW, LMC truck shows a different part for the rear window and door roller/rivet, so may take some additional work. I have a parts door so I should be able to work on that concurrently.