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Power tailgate "sticking"

dyeager535

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This tailgate has been acting up for quite some time, but it's gotten pretty consistent lately.

Window goes up 1/2-3/4 of the way, and there is a definite "clunk" sound which stops the motor. Two distinct positions that it locks up like that. It's definitely internal to the tailgate. If I grab the top of the window and shake it front to rear while the switch is held in the up position, the window will go up normally. The drive mechanism obviously works, it's something binding.

I had the gate partially apart before, but from what is visible there is nothing physically wrong. I lubed up everything I could reach (tracks, gear teeth) with lithium grease, but obviously didn't fix the issue.

I'm sure the solution is going to be to tear the whole thing down, but I'm wondering if anyone has experienced similar, and can point me to the likely culprit so I know what to pay close attention to. I'm guessing a broken roller, rotten track that the roller rides on, or maybe the channel on either side of the window that holds it vertical?

The "safety switch" is already bypassed.

I know many seem to prefer manual windows, but I'm not going that route. I don't have AC, so this window gets a lot of use for defrosting/dehumidifying and for interior cooling while I'm driving.
 
Mine does the exact same thing. As long as it's got enough speed it usually powers through it, but when the motor's slow due to cold temperatures it hangs up sometimes.

I've been told that the issue may be from worn window channels. There is a guide on each side and I guess over time the felt wears and causes a misalignment. I took the access panel off and couldn't find any issues with the regulator.
 
Mine does the exact same thing. As long as it's got enough speed it usually powers through it, but when the motor's slow due to cold temperatures it hangs up sometimes.

I've been told that the issue may be from worn window channels. There is a guide on each side and I guess over time the felt wears and causes a misalignment. I took the access panel off and couldn't find any issues with the regulator.

I would not be surprised if it's getting off track. Probably need to see if the channels are available, although I don't really want to dump money into a tailgate I don't intend to keep using. :(
 
I think LMC carries them. I haven't bought them yet because they were kind of pricey at the time I was buying everything else when I wasn't sure if that was the problem.
 
I've had a problem I'm dealing with and found that if someone 'fatasses' the tailgate 'taco-ing' it on the inside the motor can hit the glass on the way up and down. pull the cover off and check that. Also, check the sheet metal at the top of the tailgate channel and make sure they're not bent and grabbing the glass. the regulator arm on the driver side can also hit the glass if it's been warped at all.
 
Check the clock-work spring (I think the tailgate has one). With the windows, the clock-work spring becomes corroded. When it does, there is a ton of binding and resistance with it. Take the spring out and clean/grease it.
 
I've had a problem I'm dealing with and found that if someone 'fatasses' the tailgate 'taco-ing' it on the inside the motor can hit the glass on the way up and down. pull the cover off and check that. Also, check the sheet metal at the top of the tailgate channel and make sure they're not bent and grabbing the glass. the regulator arm on the driver side can also hit the glass if it's been warped at all.

Ok this plus Keitha's response will give me some things to look at. I've not been nice to the tailgate, so it's possible that the window is hitting something internally from sheetmetal abuse, or perhaps the side channels are shot allowing the window to get too close to some of the internal components and that's why it's stopping. Now thinking about the above info, makes sense that the window is actually catching an edge, that's why I can shake it back and forth and get it to come free. The key switch not working most of the time just compounds the frustration, I suspect the wiring is loose to it, since I had it apart a couple years back to clean it up...what I thought was the issue.

Focused on the new header/exhaust build now, then inspect/repack the wheel bearings, replace the passenger door hinge pin, and fix the tailgate. Plenty to keep me busy right up until I need the truck at the end of the month. Going to be a bit before I get to the tailgate, but when I do, I'll report back on what I find.
 
Worn rollers, tracks allowing the sash to catch on the structure. Specially if has bent sheet metal.
 
They can be a hassle (like this) but I can't blame the thing...it's old, worked this long, and been abused as it has, so I think it's to be expected that it needs freshened up.

Another thing I didn't think about is that it works well to crack it and cut down on condensation, and helps to defrost faster. If I had a manual or non-rollup setup, that wouldn't be possible.
 
As a followup, had to take it apart as it finally just stopped going up all the way. The roller on one side is worn flat, and was catching on the track it rides on, where the slot is cut for the roller to be slipped into the track on assembly.

Anyone reading this, can the rollers be sourced by themselves and replaced, or can the assemblies be purchased cheap enough to not waste time on? I've got a few manual tailgate pieces, if the regulator will work, or the rollers can be used. I assume they are riveted to the mechanism, and could be replaced with a screw/nut if done right.
 
Thanks, I was just browsing LMC and saw that as well. I read a comment elsewhere that the included rivet is pretty weak, I may try tearing down the spare gate I have and seeing if I can use a nut/screw instead.

Edit: I notice on the manual gate I just tore down, one of the rollers is also flat spotted in it, neither turns at all. One is still good so I'll probably use it, but interesting that the manual gates can have the same issue.
 
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This tailgate has been acting up for quite some time, but it's gotten pretty consistent lately.

Window goes up 1/2-3/4 of the way, and there is a definite "clunk" sound which stops the motor. Two distinct positions that it locks up like that. It's definitely internal to the tailgate. If I grab the top of the window and shake it front to rear while the switch is held in the up position, the window will go up normally. The drive mechanism obviously works, it's something binding.

I had the gate partially apart before, but from what is visible there is nothing physically wrong. I lubed up everything I could reach (tracks, gear teeth) with lithium grease, but obviously didn't fix the issue.

I'm sure the solution is going to be to tear the whole thing down, but I'm wondering if anyone has experienced similar, and can point me to the likely culprit so I know what to pay close attention to. I'm guessing a broken roller, rotten track that the roller rides on, or maybe the channel on either side of the window that holds it vertical?

The "safety switch" is already bypassed.

I know many seem to prefer manual windows, but I'm not going that route. I don't have AC, so this window gets a lot of use for defrosting/dehumidifying and for interior cooling while I'm driving.[/QUOTE
 
I think you're going to find that it's catching on the bottom lip of the motor, mine did the same thing, drove me nuts trying to figure it out. I always had the tailgate down flat when trying to diagnose the problem, apparently gravity took over and moved the motor just enough to keep it out of the harms way when laid out flat, put tailgate up still had problem. Had someone operate switch while I watched through tailgate access opening, that's when I saw the bottom metal holding glass catch on motor. Tah-dah! :woot:
 
Since the key doesn't work right now, had to have someone help by watching while the cover was off, and I used the cab switch to roll it up and down. Pretty obvious when doing that which side was the problem, and easy enough to check out the tracks on the side to make sure they aren't the issue when the cover is off.

Does not help I'm sure that the felt is pretty much completely gone, it's metal on metal as the window goes up for the most part now.
 
LMC has new felt, but you have to buy them w/ new rails.... so they're stupid expensive. I cleaned mine out and put some new 'felt' in there and so far seems to work ok. the felt I used is old skool. Was some 'wicking' material that you used to use in industrial bearings.
 
I replaced my rollers with bearings. No idea of a brand or part number. Just had them laying around. Really works nice. The tailgate window works better than either door window.
 
I replaced my rollers with bearings. No idea of a brand or part number. Just had them laying around. Really works nice. The tailgate window works better than either door window.

Heck, that's a great idea! Think it's Boca Bearings that has a really good site with ID/OD/thickness listed and a huge selection, should be pretty easy to find something that matches up with the stock diameter wheel, since you were able to find something that fit.

Brilliant!
 
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