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Power window is very slow is the motor shot?

S

shum1

1/2 ton status
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Anyone delt with these little beasts? It still works but it bearly moves when its halfway up or down. Is there any servicing these things?
 
Try greasing the tracks to see if this helps. I usally use the spray type white litium grease. Did this on a 57 buicks power windows and they worked like new. If this does not help you will need a new motor.
 
I have the same problem on my passenger side. Haven't tried fixing it yet, but I think it might be binding in the track.

Call my rig an SUV... And I'll tear your lungs out.
 
my paasenger window was slow also i used a degreaser to the tracks cleaned them good and new grease now i think it about to fly off the track,well at least it worked for me,good luck

guns dont kill postal workers do
 
Like everyone else said, there may be resistance in the track. I have a similar problem, but havent even attempted to fix it. I was kinda thinking that maybe there could be resistance in the WIRE? Im no electrician, but it seems like a logical conclusion to me....

Later,

-Derek
1977 3/4 Ton & Blazer Project (Body Needed)
http://www.4chevy.com
 
do a thread search on this topic, someone posted a diagram of the internals of the door. the track gets hella gunked up, like they said. the best remedy is partial disassembly of your inner door, and clean everything up real good. that should last you around 10 to 15 years.
oh, and if you ignore it, the motor will go. don't ask me how i know.

<font color=purple>delta9blazer</font color=purple>
 
Wish I knew about this forum a while ago! Completely burned up drivers side ... ended up replacing the motor, but needed power switches anyway. Will try the grease on the passenger side. Let you know how it works.

What's the maintanence on the power door locks. Where should you hit them with lub without trashing them?

Thanks
 
powwind.JPG



http://www.espen88k5.coloradok5.com
 
Do grease them soon, I had this on my Drivers side, kept getting slower at times then would speed back up, finally last night on the way home it stopped completely with the window down, luckily no rain today or last night, pulled the door apart no amount and fudging with the tracks would fix it and Autozone was closed so tonight 45 bucks later my window will work again,argh.

If it aint a Chevy don't raise it up!
 
I just greased mine last week. Didn't help one bit (damn it). Its gettin so bad that sometimes I have to push or pull the window while holding down the switch. How much is a new motor?
 
Re: Power motors on eBay

I used grease on mine and it helped. Als omake sure the window didn't jump out of the track and go on the othe side of it between the felt and the metal. That happened to mine too.

90K5
 
My Passenger side was that way...would go halfway down and not come back up for 2 hours. I finally got tired of it and took it apart. I sprayed white petroleum everywhere it looked like parts moved and now it works fine.
 
Well I took mine apart last night, even with the motor disconnected it would only budge then stop completely. Bought a new motor from Autozone for $43, took about a hour to swap, considering I have big arms and that little square hole just isn't enough to get in ther real good and you can't get anything on the back of the bolts to hold em while you put the nuts on, but it works great now.

If it aint a Chevy don't raise it up!
 
Besides the roller tracks, the geared track and gear housing needs some attention. GM used that same white lithium grease on these that when exposed to the elements of time becomes the cosistency of bubblegum and rock candy. It's easier to pull the whole regulator assembly to clean this area up than it is to try to do it with it still installed in the door. If you have to pull it down that far, don't forget that area. My nickel worths.
 
When I finally burned up my drivers P/W motor I figured since the passenger side was moving slow ... I'd buy two new motors and replace the weatherstrips also. Just cleaned up the passenger side and lubed like you guys suggested ... moves much faster. Guess I'll keep the motor in the box, will definitely make it through the winter.

Bad news and good news. While I was at it, I decided to check out the rear window ... the snapping, popping, squeaking one. Pulled the rubber deck off the top ... rusted like I couldn't believe.

Good news I nearly cut off my head gillatene stile b/c after cleaning and lubing, it really runs away.

Just need to add that spot to the rust project. Poor girl really lookin rough from living on the beach for ten years!
 
Just replace my driver side window motor last week. Before it broke the window was slugish, then all of a sudden, gears grinding. After reading previous posts, I felt I had enough info to do the job. Within 30 minutes I had it out and off to the part house (Car Quest paid $44, I probably could have gotten it cheaper somewhere else but it was closer to the house and by the time I ran around town to find it I would have burned a little gas). Put it back together and it works like a champ. My two little one fight over which one will get the driver seat to window race. Passenger window always loses, might go in and check it out.
 
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