CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Power Window Makeover

kennyw

@squarebody.chop.shop on IG
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Jun 9, 2002
Posts
18,852
Reaction score
12,446
Location
Stevens Pass Highway, WA
With the drivers side motor burnt out and the pass side started out slow and now the factory switches have about gave up the ghost... I picked these switches up from a friend that used to work at Freightliner last year.

IMG_9114.JPG


After a little measuring I found they would not fit in the door panels however. There was only about 1.5" of clearance behind the panel and these switches need 3". So I went with another option that is actually going to make the wiring simpler anyway.

IMG_9109.JPG


IMG_9110.JPG
 
Last edited:
I pulled apart the passenger side door today and pulled back the power lock wiring. I now have the switch in the dash wired up to control the power lock solenoid.

I also started modifying the power window wiring to put a relay inside of the cab just before the wiring goes through to the door. So far, I believe I can do most of it without running new wires on the passenger side.
 
Something on a similar note is happening to my 84' K5, driver door lock solenoid does not actuate. I have replaced the switches, and even replaced the door (explanation on a later post) i know that the solenoid is not bad. I like where You are going with yours, and I hate electrical any and all details would be appreciated.
 
I spliced the pink power wire to the black (after disconnecting the harness inside the cab) and the blue/white & tan wires to the blue wire. The blue/white & tan wires are undersized by themselves, but together they will be big enough. In the cab I will use the two relay meathod to switch power to the motor.

The only reason for doing this is to avoid pulling new wires through the door.
 
Thank you for the pictures this is going to make things a lot easier!:bow: I would much appreciate a play by play:D :bow: :D . I am going to need something to do when i get home from "Southwest Asia";) and have a month off for reacliamtion.:rolleyes::D U.S.A.F thanks, Mike
 
I spent some time this afternoon working up a wiring harness for under the dash. I found some 6 circuit connectors at Fry's that will work for the smaller wires running the solenoids. Didn't think to take pics until I already had the dash back on though :doah:
 
I spent some time this afternoon working up a wiring harness for under the dash. I found some 6 circuit connectors at Fry's that will work for the smaller wires running the solenoids. Didn't think to take pics until I already had the dash back on though :doah:

Thanks for coming out Kenny... :p:

Rene
 
Here are some pics... I had to take the dash off again to run the 10 ga power wires.

2010-03-24%20004.JPG


2010-03-24%20005.JPG


2010-03-24%20006.JPG


2010-03-24%20007.JPG


2010-03-24%20008.JPG
 
Last edited:
Is it just me, or is the window motor nearly impossible to replace? Snagged a new one from a junkyard and getting it out took me nearly an hour, after I broke a ton of stuff in the process. Swapping mine out without damaging anything should be fun.

And this upgrade looks like an awesome idea. Are you doing something for the rear window as well, since you're putting this in a K5 now?
 
Is it just me, or is the window motor nearly impossible to replace? Snagged a new one from a junkyard and getting it out took me nearly an hour, after I broke a ton of stuff in the process. Swapping mine out without damaging anything should be fun.

They used to be difficult for me to get out, but after parting out a couple hundred trucks you tend to get the hang of it :thumb:

And this upgrade looks like an awesome idea. Are you doing something for the rear window as well, since you're putting this in a K5 now?

Yes, pickup tailgate with a soft top to eliminate the rear window.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom