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Power window motor replacement & door panel removal

GruntHunter

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My passenger window crapped out on me yesterday, went down but wouldn't come back up. I'm assuming I'll need to replace the motor. I did a search and found them with prices all over the place. I don't want some cheap junk. Do I need to stick to an OEM or are there some available that are as good as the OEM or work better? I need to get this fixed QUICK !
 
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Napa carries the motors for about $30. They're rebuilt in Mexico, I think. When you buy it, save yourself some time and take it to someone who can test the function of the motor under the correct conditions. JUST CONNECTING THE LEAD ON THE DOOR WILL NOT TEST IT PROPERLY. I learned this the hard way (three motors, two scraped up arms and three stripped bolts later:doah:). If the motor tests well at an electrical shop, then it should work fine. Otherwise, take it back and try another one.

One additional note: They come with some silly little screws/nuts to attach your old mounting bracket to the new motor. Throw those away and use pop rivets. Just make sure you orient the rivets so that the window regulator gear will not be blocked by them. Make sure that you don't throw your old mounting bracket away, because you will need it- the new motor does NOT have one attached.
 
I haven't opened up the door yet so I don't know how big of a PITA it's going to be to replace the motor. Does anyone make a motor that operates better (faster) than the original one ?
 
I can't help with a better/faster motor but make sure your wiring is good, maybe even replace it with an increase of one or two numbers in size, and that should be an improvement;)
 
I have a 89 blazer and about a year ago I bought the motors from AutoZone for both windows. Drivers side quit a couple of weeks ago and I took to the dealer and they replaced with OEM and it's a lot of difference in the speed of the windows. The passenger side is very slow.
 
Need Help ! ! !

I have a 89 blazer and about a year ago I bought the motors from AutoZone for both windows. Drivers side quit a couple of weeks ago and I took to the dealer and they replaced with OEM and it's a lot of difference in the speed of the windows. The passenger side is very slow.

Jay Bird,
Are you saying then that I should stay away from anything 'after market' and just stick with GM OEM motors. I'll have to check with our local Bennett Auto Parts to see if they carry them. They advertise they carry all AC Delco parts. I've noticed that both windows have been slowing down in the past year or so. I guess I should replace them both.

BTW; how nasty of a job is it to swap one out?

OK, I got all the screws out, arm rests off, pull straps off and the door panel appears completely loose except I can't get it off. I can't lift it up off the door lock screw or out of the window track. Is there something I'm missing? I don't want to break anything or screw up the new window seals.:(
 
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hold them out from the bottom with both hands and jerk up. they should come free.
 
Finally got the stubborn panel off and now discovered one of the power wires has broken off of the connector on the back of the switch. Unfortunately the wire broke off right at the snap-in terminal connector inside of the harness switch connector. It's a strange (uncommon) sideways sleeve that slides over one of the pins on the switch. My delima now is trying to find one of those pin sleeve type connectors (none of the local parts stores carry them) or try and find a complete harness connector with about 6 inches of wires left on it where I could splice it into my existing wire harness. I've tried soldering the wire to the pin sleeve and will try and see how well that works.
 
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I'm gonna have to do ALL of my windows now. Rear is stuck 2inchs down, drivers doesn't work, and the pass. is on it's last leg so I'm mainly trying to get some info for when I have to the mess with the damn things
 
so is it easy enough to do? i have to do mine too lol

Are you needing to replace the motor or switch or fix your harness connector? I ended up just repairing the harness connector. I got part of the crimp opened up and soldered the wire to it and put it back together. The connector just has a snap on back that easily opens up exposing the crimp-on sleeves that slide over the switch pins. There's a blue (on mine anyway) push-on nut that holds the connector to the switch. Just twist it and pull on it at the same time and it'll come right off and then you can pull the connector off of the switch.

My window is working again, but real slow, so I know I'll still be needing to replace the motors. I heard there is a spring loaded regulator arm you need to hold in place while you replace the motors. I've got a good mechanic that I'm going to let do that for me :-)
 
I'm gonna have to do ALL of my windows now. Rear is stuck 2inchs down, drivers doesn't work, and the pass. is on it's last leg so I'm mainly trying to get some info for when I have to the mess with the damn things

Need to pop off the chrome plastic caps (if you still have yours) from the ends of the 'pull straps' and then unscrew the pull strap attachment screws. Next, remove the two screws from the arm rest where your fingers fit down into, then remove the two screws from behind the door handle and pull out the plastic 'tub'. The only thing left now are the perimiter screws around the outsdide edge of the door panel ( I think there are 6), and oh yeah, unscrew the plastic knob off the door lock buttom by the window. There are a couple of plastic plugs that will pop out when you slip something behind the door panel and put some pressure on them. Only thing left to do is hold as much of the panel as you can out from the door frame and try and get it UP off the door frame where the seal is next to the glass. To remove the panel completely you will have to also remove the power window and door lock switch harness connectors like I've described previously.

Good Luck
 
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