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power window questions

blazinzuk

blazinzuk

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Okay so got power coming into the swift and going out of the switch. Window rolls up about an inch then stops. About a minute later it will go another inch. If you pull it up will go all the way up.

Going down it acts the exact same way.

Motor?
 
Something is binding causing the motor to overheat. On the inside of the motor there are contacts that will separate when there is too much current going through them. Once they cool down they will make contact again. What you need to do is find out what is causing the binding, either old weatherstripping, old tar-like grease in the channels where the nylon rollers go, old grease in the gears where the motor mounts to, or it could be old grease in the motor itself (which you can disassemble and refurbish if you wish to spend an hour or so).

Here are the contacts inside the motor I was talking about:

windowmotorendcap3b_zpsfc3893d7.jpg
 
So just old great can stop it. The weather stripping is definately not awesome but does not appear to be binding at all.

How soon would those contacts close again? It does the exact same thing all the way up and the exact same thing all the way down
 
The old grease no longer resembles grease, it's all dried up and will stop parts from moving. I don't know how long it takes for the contacts to cool down. What you can do is when the window stops moving just keep the switch engaged and wait for them to make contact again. You won't hurt the motor since no current will be going through it.

What I'd to do diagnose the problem is remove the window itself, leaving all the other hardware in place to see how it functions. Then remove the motor/regulator and see how easily the window moves up and down the window channels. That way you can narrow down if it's on the window side or motor/regulator side ... or maybe a combination of both.
 
Yah that's kinda what I was thinking. I dont wanna get a new motor unless its the problem
 
I'm also having the same problem. My rear driver side on my suburban was working fine until a couple days ago it went down fine but never came back up I bought a new motor today and when I connected it it's doing the same any ideas?
 
Somewhat related:

Mine used to do this before I gutted my doors for paint. I'm going to clean everything up, replace weatherstripping, and probably replace the motors on reassembly. Question is grease. What's best? LMC catalog recommended Loc-Tite Viper lube for regulators etc so I got some. But is there something better for this?
 
Don't know what's better since I've never used Viper Lube, but I used marine grade bearing grease because that's what was handy at the time and it worked fine.
 
I used spray on lithium grease in the metal tracks where the nylon wheels go and on the wheels themselves. Getting the wheels moving loosely made just as big of a difference as greasing the tracks and putting new rubber/felt liners in.
 
I had some window problems, jumped the gun and replaced the slowest motors, ran a new , heavier wire to the switch, lubed the tracks and runners, etc, I finally ended up replacing the gang switch on the drivers door, problem solved. Wish I would have started there instead of ended there:haha:
 
I used to pull out the main control on the driver door on my old one and clean it out every once in a while. Always started working again after that. Of course, my '86 was only 10 at the time, not 28.
 
Ose said:
I used to pull out the main control on the driver door on my old one and clean it out every once in a while. Always started working again after that. Of course, my '86 was only 10 at the time, not 28.
Click to expand...

Ok not to sound stupid but clean it with wht
 
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