Is it possible to swap all the parts from a manual door into a truck with power doors? Any differance in the door shell itself?
Thanks ahead of time!
Thanks ahead of time!
CK5
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Power Windows -----> Manual Windows
- Thread starter bigjimmy82
- Start date
BKinzey
1/2 ton status
No difference in the shells. Might be a difference in interior supports but I haven't noticed any. Then again I actually haven't put my power stuff in the manual door yet.
bigjimmy82 said:
they are the same
awesome
, because power windows suck
, because power windows suck
bigjimmy82 said:awesome
Actually they are great till they break down.
I hate my manual windows but worst I had was it gets a little hard to close and I build some muscles.
I had an electric and it stopped in the middle of a storm, I had to drive home wet, and then tear into the door to find a wire fell off the switch
loafer
1/2 ton status
Yes. I did this on mine (driver's side anyway) When my motor burned out I bought a manual regulator on ebay for $18.00 and that was it. The crank post actually lined up with the cutout for the power window switch, so I didn't even have to cut a hole in the plastic door panel.
bigjimmy82 said:
You will have an extra/larger hole on the driver's side inner plastic panel.
bigjimmy82 said:
I've done it.. 77 manual guts into 87 doors.. everything bolts up...
screw power doors, manual all the way! Now I just need to do a truck tailgate...
I'm too lazy for manuals, hehe. I just wish I could speed up the dang things. I would also like to somehow magically attach a modern car's armrest style switches to the door. I don't like the flat-on-the-door switch configuration.
LEEREED123
1/2 ton status
I AGREE! does anyone know where i can get a faster power window motor?
There is a universal kit thats real fast. You use the manual window guts, and the motor goes onto the crank shaft. I've helped two friends swap the power guts for manual, then wire the universal parts to the factory wires.LEEREED123 said:
dmanblazer
1/2 ton status
I just did the swap on my drivers door the only difference was, the rail on the power door was welded to the inside of the door. All I did was took a prybar to it and it popped right off, then I reassembled the manual guts with no problems.
when hanging the doors you will have a hard time aligning them up because the old bolt marks on the hinges are for the other blazer so you'll have to hit and miss it till you get it right.
when hanging the doors you will have a hard time aligning them up because the old bolt marks on the hinges are for the other blazer so you'll have to hit and miss it till you get it right.
Gorillajeep
1/2 ton status
I am in the process of doing this now. The only thing now is the windows are super hard to roll up and down. Probably what burnt up the motors. Any sujections?
James
James
The obvious things to do are grease the regulator at the teeth and rollers and make sure the track felts are ok.. Something is more than likely binding...
The lower side tracks are "tweakable" even tho they have fixed bolt positions. Try loosening the bottom bolts of the side tracks and operate the window to see if it gets better...
The lower side tracks are "tweakable" even tho they have fixed bolt positions. Try loosening the bottom bolts of the side tracks and operate the window to see if it gets better...
I have been thinking of mounting an extra 6V battery on board somewhere with a DC-DC converter to charge it. Then the window circuit would get powered from 18V, which would make it much faster (225% more power). It would just need a bypass so that if you run down the 6V battery the windows can run on 12V until that battery charges back up. The other advantage I am interested in is that the window voltage could be regulated the same whether the engine is running or not. Ever have to start the engine just to get a window up?
Oh yeah, I think these motors have a thermal breaker on them, either to prevent burning up the motor or to prevent rolling somebody's neck up in the window. I think that is the biggest thing to degrade over the years, slowing down the motors. This might be built into the switches themselves, though. Obviously, a little lube in the tracks is always a good thing, too.
I have always believed that replacing all of the factory window wiring with new heavier gauge wire would make a big difference, but I've never connected a voltmeter to the motor when it's running.
Oh yeah, I think these motors have a thermal breaker on them, either to prevent burning up the motor or to prevent rolling somebody's neck up in the window. I think that is the biggest thing to degrade over the years, slowing down the motors. This might be built into the switches themselves, though. Obviously, a little lube in the tracks is always a good thing, too.
I have always believed that replacing all of the factory window wiring with new heavier gauge wire would make a big difference, but I've never connected a voltmeter to the motor when it's running.
bah, manual all the way... screw that fancy schmancy stuff...
