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powertrax lockright

johnathan

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 26, 2005
Posts
376
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Location
Ocean Springs,MS
I'm about to regear the front,and I'm on a tight budget.How do yall feel about the lockright for the front?Don't wanna weld it.
 
Get an Aussie Locker instead. Use Machinewave in the Vendor forum over on Pirate and you will get a better deal.
 
I have a lock right in my rear and I am not very pleased with it. I noticed that after I installed it I kept getting incressed play in the rear end. So I took apart the axel and all the play is in the locker. So called them up all huffy puffy, and they said that it is supposed to have up to 27 degrees of play in it before it will engage the axel shafts. And having a stick it is noticable when you get on and off the gas and when you first start from a dead stop. Its not that bad but just annoying. Also I'm sure thats not that good for the axels.
 
i have a LocRite in the front of the Burb, i tried the welded thing for a bit, but seriously hated it, I won't remove my LocRite, unless of course i get a free air locker,,,which we know THAT won't happen.

Just make sure you have manual lockouts on the hubs, makes it easier to use.
 
Got one in the front in my D60. 40" tires, 454 and I use it. I have blown two ring and pinions, some hubs, drivelines, and axle shafts. That same Lockrite is still there. Spent $260 bucks at the time 5 years ago.

But I have heard people breaking them. I have also heard Detroits letting go. Just depends I guess.
 
had them front and rear. If your on a budget like I was with 1/2 ton ****, Id get them. No problems what so ever and I had them in my Daily Driver for 2 years, even did the tank trap in hollister with them no breakage but increased wear on the center pins over time. If you get them, I recommend getting hardened center pins from Randys ring and pinion (like 15$ each). Must have unlockable hubs on for turning ability. If your not on a budget get full lockers, there stronger.
 
I've had one in my front D60 for several years running 38" tires. It has survived two broken 30-spline stubshafts and a broken necked-down inner shaft with no problems. I also don't notice it on the street at all when in 2wd and I run front drive flanges.

78Buford on here stripped a Lock-right out.....worked in forward but no reverse.....but that was with 42" tires, big block, and a 7,000 lb. truck and it lasted several years.
 
I run a lockright in my 10 bolt front. It has done me just fine. I ran it hard for 2 years with 35's in the rocks of AZ. I like it and have had friends that have had them do very well for them too.

Harley
 
johnathan said:
I'm about to regear the front,and I'm on a tight budget.How do yall feel about the lockright for the front?Don't wanna weld it.
Running Lockrights front 10b w/lockouts and rear 12b on/off road no problems going on one year now.
 
'85 Burp, corp 10bs, 32", 3:42, Warn hubs, TH350, LockRite in the front and NoSlip in the rear, DD, never a problem and it crawls like a spider.:D
 
just buy it new. I bought mine used for 250 shipped but the parts I have boughten to get it to work is about 350 and it still didnt work. so now Iam back to an open diff. Many others have had good luck with them, my burb is always diffcult
 
Juat an FYI, but Summit has the Lock-right for $229 (after a $61 instant rebate) right now. I'm "this close" to ordering one for the rear (both axles currrently open), for both axles, or maybe just the front.

I'm more of a lifelong gearhead than a wheeler here in this flat country. I had a Detriot on my '69 Mach I (sold the car 22 years ago, unfortunately), and really liked that unit, but I'm not sure if I'd be better of with Powertrax's No-Slip or their Lock-right in a DD Blazer, if the purpose is mainly to get a better grip on the street during WOT acceleration.

(Perhaps I should buy a Lock-right for the front, at that fire-sale price?)
 

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