Are they worth it? I have my bed off. Truck has two new sending units, two new fuel tanks are on their way. All the cross over lines are all rubber. Switching valve is cobbled to the frame with zip-ties. All new prebent fuel lines are gonna cost me like $250. Bending neat and tidy lines ain't my strong suit. I don't know why, but $250 seems like a huge hit. Maybe it's because it's $40 worth of steal lines. I think I just need to have some one tell me to drop the coin and save myself the head aches.
CK5
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Pre-bent fuel lines...
- Thread starter -stew-
- Start date
Um, i wouldnt' do it any other way. Up to you though. Whats your time worth?
Carcinogen
1/2 ton status
I agree with Darren. I tried to bend my own lines and it worked alright in some spots but the pre-bent ones are much nicer(fuel pump to carb for example...), plus if you make your own you still need to cut them to length and flare them. In the end I ended up replacing them with pre-bent anyway.
IME bending steel lines isn't bad, it takes some time, but you can custom route them as well (which is what I needed to do)...however do not mess with stainless lines yourself...I had a headache of a time trying to get stainless brake lines to seal, and ended up with teflon coated lines in a couple places because of it....the Stainless is hard to double flare with a handheld flaring tool, and it doesnt compress as easy as the softer steel lines do.
k20
3/4 ton status
Correct me if Im wrong, but you dont double flare stainless lines. They are a single 37* flare.
I live in the rust belt . I have way to much time under my belt to buy prebent from all the lines I have made over the years.
I buy a bulk 25 ft roll and go to town . then get out my mastercool flairing kit and pop on some ends .
butthis is from 15 + years in the repair biss
and watch your self on rubber hose these days its not nearly as good as the old stuff was .
I buy a bulk 25 ft roll and go to town . then get out my mastercool flairing kit and pop on some ends .
butthis is from 15 + years in the repair biss
and watch your self on rubber hose these days its not nearly as good as the old stuff was .
From Inline tube:
Straight Length - Stainless Steel Tubing & Fittings
Straight Length - Stainless Steel Tubing & Fittings
45 degree is the standard American automotive specification. It requires a double flare to rest on the seat of each component. Brake lines on all production cars and trucks used a 45 degree double flare. Straight sets are designed for production car plumbing on a non-factory application. Additional components for street rods and custom systems are in the street rod plumbing section. Many of the items are the same, but this section is for production cars with brake modifications.
That is what I was going by, I hadn't heard of the single 37* flare for stainless brake application before?
That is what I was going by, I hadn't heard of the single 37* flare for stainless brake application before?
yes lots of people say 37*
but I know lots of people with no problems doing double 45* for years on it .
but I know lots of people with no problems doing double 45* for years on it .
k20
3/4 ton status
Yeh Ive been reading since I posted, it seems to be a 50/50 deal.....wtf. Just for the record I have no experience doing stainless lines its just what Ive always heard/read. Double 45 on regular steel and single 37 on stainless
I've been turning wrenches for a living for 15+ years as well; and I think I'm gonna use what I've learned in those years to do what needs to be done to fix this right. And I've learned you need the right parts to do the job right; and for this, the right part is a pre made fuel line. My lines are rotty way up to the motor. And this is actually seven individual lines that need to be replaced, and five of them I don't have the originals to compare them to. It's only money and it it avoids a whole lot of phuckin around and headaches.
I know I'll get flamed by the purists for saying this--but I've used flexible copper tubing for fuel lines on more than one of my trucks (both gas and diesel) and have yet to have any issues with them..no RUST at least!..replace the steel fuel line with copper properly and you'll never have to touch it again...
I know some GM repair manuals say to never use copper or aluminum tubing on things like fuel or tranny cooler lines,but why did so many vehicles back in the day have it factory, without any issues..?...
Yes,I dont use it on a EFI system or any brake lines,carbed engines only!--but I have used it with good results by using the correct fuel hose or rubber tranny cooler hose to connect the tubing at each end to the fittings,rather than flare it and screw it directly into the radiator or carb,etc,to avoid it from cracking from vibration..
There is a heavier walled copper "air brake tubing" available from Dorman that is able to withstand higher pressures and vibrations too..I've been tempted to use it on brakes more than once,but now they have that new copper-terne stuff in rolls thats worth the extra money if you live in the rist belt like me..
I know some GM repair manuals say to never use copper or aluminum tubing on things like fuel or tranny cooler lines,but why did so many vehicles back in the day have it factory, without any issues..?...
Yes,I dont use it on a EFI system or any brake lines,carbed engines only!--but I have used it with good results by using the correct fuel hose or rubber tranny cooler hose to connect the tubing at each end to the fittings,rather than flare it and screw it directly into the radiator or carb,etc,to avoid it from cracking from vibration..
There is a heavier walled copper "air brake tubing" available from Dorman that is able to withstand higher pressures and vibrations too..I've been tempted to use it on brakes more than once,but now they have that new copper-terne stuff in rolls thats worth the extra money if you live in the rist belt like me..
Inline tube flat out rocks man! Nothing like putting a tube up on the frame rail and snapping it into the factory tube holders and being done with it. They offer both steel and stainless steel lines and you literally cannot tell the difference between them and OEM. Perfect fit all around.
I bought new fuel lines for my 93 Blazer and was so impressed that I dropped the money to buy all new pre-bent brake lines as well. I did all the brake lines on my 95 Tahoe myself and I am seriously considering buying new inline tube stuff for it as well. They will even custom bend me a supply fuel line in 1/2" for the Duramax's requirements so I can get rid of the hokey rubber fuel line I ran front to back.
I bought new fuel lines for my 93 Blazer and was so impressed that I dropped the money to buy all new pre-bent brake lines as well. I did all the brake lines on my 95 Tahoe myself and I am seriously considering buying new inline tube stuff for it as well. They will even custom bend me a supply fuel line in 1/2" for the Duramax's requirements so I can get rid of the hokey rubber fuel line I ran front to back.
Roy Obermann
Registered Member
the pre-bent lines are a great , if you are replacing a stock line. But sooner or later because our trucks are built not bought you will probably have tomake a line for something custom. Its not really very hard to do , you just need the right tools ,a tight radius bender really helps, one thing i learned after screwing up some flares , is that you shouldent use a tubing cutter as it aneals the end <and this is what makes it hard to flare. use a zip disc and file the end square and its easy to make perfect flares. i just finished replacing all my brake lines recently when installing rockcrawler cutting brakes , 23 pcs in all , with beautifull results and no leaks
What he said ^^^ Use a zip disc, not a tubing cutter. Tubing cutter also narrows the opening of the tube and your flaring die will get stuck in the end.
I wish I still had all the factory clips! I'll be using those rubberized wrap around clamps to secure all the lines. I had to run new fuel and brake lines on my 1993 Lincoln a few years ago, and I remember what a pain in the ass it ease where the lines got complicated. The lines run almost between the body and the frame on that car. Money is easy to make, time isnt and unfrustrating myself isnt.
i would not use the coated wrap clips . hold water more if you ask me . make stuff rust faster.
and you can buy the clips cheep at the prebent places and even lmc . dont forget there is 1-2-3 line clips .
and you can buy the clips cheep at the prebent places and even lmc . dont forget there is 1-2-3 line clips .
Yup, buy the clips cheap from LMC and do it properly! Easier and cleaner looking
+1 with inline tubes.
Great product and service. I tried to bend my own lines at first and was very careful with each bend. I could not match the quality and fit with inline tubes. Should have saved time and money and just bought inline tubes from the start. Next I'm getting the brake lines.
Great product and service. I tried to bend my own lines at first and was very careful with each bend. I could not match the quality and fit with inline tubes. Should have saved time and money and just bought inline tubes from the start. Next I'm getting the brake lines.
