pre-oiling new motor.

[riz]

I'm about to pre-oil my new motor for it's initial start up and I have a question.....A guy I work with said all I have to do is take out the spark plugs and turn the ignition key over so the oil pump kicks in and then watch my oil pressure gauge until it reaches 60 or so. Then put the plugs back in and fire it up. Is this a good way to do it ? I've never had to do an initial start up before and don't want to do damage. He said that way I'm not turning the motor over, just running some items that work off my ignition. Secondly, If this is a good way to do it, would I have to take the plugs out or just take off the plug wires ? I would appreciate any help you guys could give me, since this is the end of my install and I can get the K5 back on the road and in the trails.
L8r,

.Riz.

 

[Bigd]

First of all if you just turn the key to ON then nothing will happen internally motor wise.If you crank it over with no plugs your still spinning all the internal motor parts how else would it start normally.If you want too do it right.Get a old distributer completely strip it down too the shaft also removing the gear on the bottom.You should end up with shaft that will hook too the oil pump and spin no internal parts.You can also buy a priming shaft but usually you can find a dist laying around for this.Hook too a drill and spin away too get oil pressure.I would also read the start up instructions for breaking the cam when you get it running.Just can't idle it.Most of the time you have too vary the RPM's between 1500-2200.I've seen a new cam destroy it self due too inproper break in.Sorry about being so lengthy.

 

[6.2 man]

Both guys are right . I use a dummy shaft with a reversible drill and run it until it starts to lug down . i have also on some engines pulled the plugs and disconnected the coil and cranked until there was pressure . I find both ways work very well
P.S. if you use a drill make sure you have it turn in the direction the distributer turns .

 

[riz]

Do I have to take the spark plugs all the way out or just disconnect the plug wires ?

.Riz.

 

[Eagle86K5]

The reason to prelube before you turn the crank is to make sure you get oil to all the bearings prior to turning anything, last thing you want to happen in a new motor is turn it metal to metal...

Quote straight from Gm...

1) Safety first !!! If the car is on the ground, be sure the emergency brake is set, the wheels are chocked, and the transmission cannot fall into gear.

2) Be sure to check the oil level in the engine and prime (GM#12368084, see bottom of page) the oil system.

3) Run the engine between 2,000 and 2,500 RPM, with no-load on the engine for the first 30 minutes.

4) Adjust the distributor timing roughly by hand for a quick start up and smoothest idle possible.

5) Adjust the carburetor settings, if necessary.

6) After the first 30 minutes of the engine running, set the ignition timing to proper timing specifications.

7) Drive the vehicle with varying speeds and load on the engine for the first 30 miles. Be sure not to use a lot of throttle or high RPM !!!

8) Run five or six medium-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPM (55 or 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

9) Run a couple hard-throttle accelerations to about 5,000 RPM (55 or 60 MPH), then let off in gear and coasting back down to 20 MPH.

10) Change the oil and filter with 10W30SG oil and PF1218 AC Delco oil filter GM#25160561.

11) Drive the next 500 miles normally, without high RPM's (below 5,000 RPM), hard use, or extended periods of high loading.

12) Change the oil and filter again.

13) Your engine is now ready for many happy cruising miles !!!



GM# 12368084

12368084 - Engine Oil Primer Pace Price $29.95

This engine oil primer tool is used on all V6 and V8 Chevy engines. This is the sure way to get oil to those bearings before you start that new or rebuilt engine.



<font color=green>

Eagle86K5

<font color=red>
Masonry...It's a Good Thing
2B1ASK1

 

[BurbinOR]

All great advice, make sure you follow Eagles GM specs to a T. You can get an aftermarket pre-oiling rod from Checker Auto, Advance, etc. (any auto parts store probably) for about $10. Bought one years ago to start up my father-in-laws new motor after his useless piece of crap stepson threw a rod through the side of the block of his 350 doing donuts in the snow........told us he was just driving down the road normally........anyway, gotta follow those directions.

'79 - 406 w/IROC TPI - K5#5 - a <font color=orange>sickness

<font color=blue>you never get enough of!!

 

[dumbfounded]

Well I'm new to the K5's but do (did) alot of drag racing street and strip and have been through a bunch of motors but I've also done both turn over with the starter and by a pre oiler. I personally like the preoiler better. All I used was a long flat head screw driver with the handle cut off worked great and CHEAP! The reason for the sparkplugs removed is to keep the stress off of the new bearings it takes pressure to make pressure if that makes sense

Blood, sweat, tears, and lots of money is what keeps the k5 alive.

 

[Blazer1970]

If you want to pre-oil the engine without cranking, you need a proper pre-oiling tool. That means that you need the distributor body in the hole (or something that takes its place), not just a shaft. The distributor body has a boss at the bottom that goes through the passenger side lifter galley. Without this boss in place, you do not build any pressure to the passenger side lifters or head. Just using a distributor shaft without the body, or a screwdriver shaft only pre-oils half the engine.

Tim

1970 Blazer CST 4X4 350 SM465 NP205
1987 Suburban 4X4 350
1988 Chevy Pickup 4X4 350

 

[83K5]

you have to remove the spark plugs .

 

[riz]

If I do use the method where I take out the plugs, should I have the proper level of oil to start with and should I have the distributor set in there just so it's close to where the timing should be ? I'm sorry about the stupid questions, It's just that I'm nervous as hell that something might happen. I don't have any experiance with motor swapping. This is the first time I've done this and I payed alot for my new motor. I'm probably over-freaking here, but it helps to hear tips from you guys who have done this before. I appreciate any info I can get from you guys.

L8r,

.Riz.

 

[Blazer79]

I would be pretty nervous too if I were in your place. It must be pretty exciting getting ready to crank for the first time the new engine. Sort of like waiting at the hospital while your first son is born.

I suggest you contact the manufacturer of the parts you installed. They can give you good do's and dont's. Especially if you just installed a new cam.

Good luck and let us know how everything goes.

<font color=black>//////
What the heck!...Drive it like gas is $0.50/gal!!!</font color=black>

 

[Blazer1970]

If you pull the plugs, and crank the motor, you will need the distributor in place to plug the hole in the lifter galley. The timing will not matter at all. It does not even need to be close. That is a good way to go. You will need to have the timing right when you go to start your motor about 10 minutes later though, so to save having to pull it out and find #1 top dead center again, just put it in right to start with.

Tim

1970 Blazer CST 4X4 350 SM465 NP205
1987 Suburban 4X4 350
1988 Chevy Pickup 4X4 350