Pressure bleeder

[dhcomp]

Thats what i use too. Looks like they changed the lid to AL. Mine is plastic, and the little chains sucked.

My plastic lid broke trying to get a seal with the chains. They replaced it though. Didn't know they had an aluminum lid now. I'm gonna see if I can
order it and upgrade mine.

Just looking at the pic in the link someone posted above, it looked like the new one is anodized red aluminum.

My plastic one is a pain. The seal has fallen off, etc. But, it still work with a good stiff backer block behind it, and a clamp.

 

[zombiyjay76]

Just looking at the pic in the link someone posted above, it looked like the new one is anodized red aluminum.

My plastic one is a pain. The seal has fallen off, etc. But, it still work with a good stiff backer block behind it, and a clamp.

Thats what came with mine, was the red aluminum top. Has a piece of rubber on the bottom to make a seal.

 

[dhcomp]

Thats what came with mine, was the red aluminum top. Has a piece of rubber on the bottom to make a seal.

Be thankful

Thats a big upgrade from the plastic POS that used to come with it.

 

[Mastiff]

Well I dropped the cash on the motive pressure bleeder. All the reviews were correct. It seems to get the job done, though the flow wasn't as impressive as I'd hoped. How much pressure do you guys pump to? I started at 10 and went to 15. I liked it better at 15 but was scared to go higher.

Anyway, it got the job done, but getting the seal on the master was a mild pain, even with the aluminum cover. There's also the mess factor because the master was full to the top when I finished so some spilled out and I had to use a turkey baster to get it back to a reasonable level. All in all though, a good option for those of us working alone.

I also thought it was weird that they only provided pipe thread fittings to go to the adapter from the pressure thing. That's semi permanent, so if you had a few kinds of adapters it would be a pain to go between. You also can't take the base away to fill up once the adapter is attached.

I originally though I might not put any fluid in the tank to reduce the mess factor, and just keep checking the level in the master, but with the 1-ton master cylinder you can't see in without removing the lid, and the front section for the drums has an amazingly small capacity.

 

[y5mgisi]

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[dhcomp]

Well I dropped the cash on the motive pressure bleeder. All the reviews were correct. It seems to get the job done, though the flow wasn't as impressive as I'd hoped. How much pressure do you guys pump to? I started at 10 and went to 15. I liked it better at 15 but was scared to go higher.

Anyway, it got the job done, but getting the seal on the master was a mild pain, even with the aluminum cover. There's also the mess factor because the master was full to the top when I finished so some spilled out and I had to use a turkey baster to get it back to a reasonable level. All in all though, a good option for those of us working alone.

I also thought it was weird that they only provided pipe thread fittings to go to the adapter from the pressure thing. That's semi permanent, so if you had a few kinds of adapters it would be a pain to go between. You also can't take the base away to fill up once the adapter is attached.

I originally though I might not put any fluid in the tank to reduce the mess factor, and just keep checking the level in the master, but with the 1-ton master cylinder you can't see in without removing the lid, and the front section for the drums has an amazingly small capacity.

In terms of filling up, you don't need to. When flushing my whole truck, I pour a big bottle of break fluid into the motive bleeder, and it flows to the master as I bleed. Just be sure to place the pressure bleeder container somewhere that the intake tube is always under fluid. The plastic tube runs to a hard plastic tube inside, and goes all the way to the bottom of the tank, so unless you lay it on its side, it will suck fluid as designed.

When it comes time to take the lid off, I do one of 2 things.
A) Bleed the last bleed screw until all the fluid in my Motive tank is gone, and i can see the last bit of fluid run into the adapter cap.

B) Tilt the tank so that the tube starts sucking air, and bleed until the last bit of fluid goes down the hose into the adapter.

If you do this, you will be sure that a bit of air has entered the Master Cyl Reservoir itself, and it won't be full to the brim when you remove the cap.

There should be 2 holes where fluid comes out of the motive adapter cap. Be sure to line one up to make it in each section of the master, so that the front or rear of the reservoir doesn't go dry.


In regards to pressure, i run mine up to about 12, but curious to see what everyone else does.

Best of luck.

 

[Mastiff]

Yeah, I didn't mean filling up the motive thing, I meant that there is the option to NOT fill up the motive at all (leave it dry) and just use it as a pressure source to avoid most of the mess. For minor bleeds this should work, like replacing a rubber line or something.

 

[dhcomp]

I guess you could use it dry.

The way i see it, brake fluid is hydrophilic, and absorbs moisture. Once I open a small bottle to top off the reservoir, it needs to get added to the system, or used for some good, or it will go bad on the shelf before i need it again.

That, and I've never had luck with short, small bleed jobs. I can flush the whole system in under an hour (lots of practice, fought some stupid brake issues for a while), so when I need to bleed it, I tend to flush it.

Glad it worked for you though.

 

[zombiyjay76]

Seems like when I release the pressure in mine, the alum adapter tube would clear it self of fluid.
And I only ran mine ~10 psi, don't want to run to much pressure. I think 15 psi would be max.

 

[Mastiff]

Seems like when I release the pressure in mine, the alum adapter tube would clear it self of fluid.
And I only ran mine ~10 psi, don't want to run to much pressure. I think 15 psi would be max.

Yeah, it did suck some fluid back as the pressure was released. In my case part of the problem is probably that the MC is tilted back a bit, so the fluid level was max at the rear of the MC even though it had some air under the adapter where the hole was. It might work perfectly with a level MC.

 

[Mastiff]

That, and I've never had luck with short, small bleed jobs. I can flush the whole system in under an hour (lots of practice, fought some stupid brake issues for a while), so when I need to bleed it, I tend to flush it.

How can you tell that it is fully flushed? I was thinking it would be cool if they had dye in a few colors, so you could watch for when the new fluid has moved all the way through. It was easy at first when the old fluid was filthy, but now that I have a new master and all new fluid, I'm not sure how I could know.

And Royal Purple doesn't make brake fluid. I checked.

 

[dhcomp]

How can you tell that it is fully flushed? I was thinking it would be cool if they had dye in a few colors, so you could watch for when the new fluid has moved all the way through. It was easy at first when the old fluid was filthy, but now that I have a new master and all new fluid, I'm not sure how I could know.

And Royal Purple doesn't make brake fluid. I checked.

I basically just guess.

The large bottle of brake fluid is larger capacity than the whole system.

So i guestimate, and try and bleed 1/4 the volume of the brake fluid bottle out of each corner, with a bit more out of the first one.

If i pull extra fluid from the first wheel i bleed, it flushes most of the lines, and then the bleed at the rest just flushes the branch lines from there.


If its been a long time since you've bled....you will be able to see the color difference.

I seem to be in the system all the time, so my fluid stays pretty clean.