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Price check on isle 44

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GreyZuk

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Fresno, CA
While riding my bike yesterday, I noticed a set of 8 lug axles sitting in the brush on a neighbors property. Closer inspection revealed what appears to be a 3/4 ton Dana 44 with full time drive slugs and a matching Dan 60. The owner said they have 4.10 gears and are bone stock. The passenger side needs new inner and outer shafts and new joints and the whole thing needs new rotors, calipers, ball joints, bearings and several hours with a grinding wheel to remove rust.

He said he would take $200 for the set.... Sound fair considering the amount of work needed?

69E9C21D-A3F8-45CB-83CC-7D7C291D3C04-5141-000004472F2D481B.jpg
 
Sounds like a lot of work. You will need locking hubs to. Unless you want fulltime 4wd. Id find a set with the 14 bolt rear. I would pass.
 
I'm only planning on 35" tires so the 14 bolt would be a bit of an anchor for my purposes. Also, I'm assuming "if" this is a small bearing 44 I should be able to swap my hubs from my 10 bolts onto it...???
 
Loaded calipers $120
New rotors. $90
New bearings $50
Ball joints. $160
New shafts. $200
Spicer ujoints. $250

Total: $800+\-
 
I know by the time I rebuild it I could have just bought a dana60 but most junkyard. 60's will still need a fair amount of rebuilding too.
 
So a grand into the front axle. I paid 800 for a front 60 and didnt have to spend a dollar to run it. Thats a lot I think. I hope some other people chime in here.

How much money to get the rear done? Just pads?

Wonder is the drive line will work.
 
The rear axle in that pic is a 14 bolt.
 
and the prices listed already for some parts are high .

loaded calipers 120 :doah: wow high . spicer joints 250 ??? ebay cheeper . and bearings most of the time just need clean up and regrease in front . rear is oil bath no grease on them . that saves you a lot of cash there. wanted ad on here for axle shafts get them cheeper . I got pair of inners from a dana . just got to check joint size for them .

dana 44 front and 14ff rear. good basic combo . front HAS the ratio tag on the bolt for the diff cover also . find out what ratio

bolt on or internal drive flanges/slugs on the front ? if bolt on I would give less money . if internal 200 sound o.k. but as said reman / clean up job / parts = more money .
 
I always guestimate prices on the high side. Our local club gets a 10% discount at napa and it always good to tell the wife I came in under budget. :-)

I think with my driving style (light foot and do t hesitate to pull rope) and the fact that this is a camping/ trail rig and the hardest trail it will see is the Rubicon, this combo should last me ok.
 
yeah your prices seem a bit high.

reman calipers from oreillys are like $12 each plus exchange and then you can get some pads for about $20.

and Ive seen spicer u-joints for under $50 each

Seems like I paid about $160 for moog ball joints so that figure may be good.

Overall though I would check for wear on parts and only replace what is bad. The best axle u-joints, ball joints, and wheel bearings Ive ever had were good factory ones. Seems like once I replace something it either breaks or wears out quickly and I tend to buy the more expensive brand name (doesn't mean usa made:mad:) and still have issues with aftermarket replacements.

If you want to swap 10 bolt hubs onto it you need the large bearing spindles also.

As far as the deal goes, I don't think that $200 is bad for a 14 bolt and matching 44 front but I wouldn't pay that for a 44 front and 60 rear.
 
I've been told the anodized gold with blue boot HD ball joints from napa are better than moog... Any firsthand opinions?

Also, thanks everyone for the informative discussion. Very helpful and patient!
 
Did it have internal or external hubs? There is a positive side to each. If it has external, it has flat top knuckles, which are used in crossover steering setups. If it has internal hubs, you can use your half ton lock outs.

I'd nab them for $200.

Martin
 
It definitely did not have flat top knuckles, so I would consider that a positive in that ill be able to switch my hubs over though ill still need to source a pass side flat top.

You guys amaze me with your detailed knowledge!
 
GreyZuk said:
It definitely did not have flat top knuckles, so I would consider that a positive in that ill be able to switch my hubs over though ill still need to source a pass side flat top.

You guys amaze me with your detailed knowledge!
Click to expand...

It's CK5! That why this place is sofockinawesome!
 
82355 said:
Did it have internal or external hubs? There is a positive side to each. If it has external, it has flat top knuckles, which are used in crossover steering setups. If it has internal hubs, you can use your half ton lock outs.

I'd nab them for $200.

Martin
Click to expand...

I once had a dana 44 with external hubs and regular knuckles (not flat tops), out of a '76 suburban. Best I could tell, they were the stock knuckles.

To the OP: Have you driven the Rubicon before? What size tires are you planning to use with these axles? Are you going to put a locker in the back?
 
Driven the rubicon several times in my old 85 4runner, cromo birfs, 35's, detroit/ arb locker combo. I've also wheeled The Hammers many times in everything from Samurais to f-toys, to KOH race cars.
This is going to be for a "family camping/ trail rig" max tire will be 35's but I plan to run the rubicon and dusy ershim in it so it needs to be mildly robust. I have a fairly light wheeling style fwiw.
 
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