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Priming Motor

reddog64

reddog64

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OK,
So motor is in, all ready to be fired...
(except for the 4 cracks in the hard fuel line I JUST found :doah:)

stick my new primer in I bought at autozone for 25 bucks... I made one but lost it...
I crank this thing for about 3-4 minutes... only builds about 12 pounds of pressure... Using a 14 volt cordless drill...
I never see oil at the rockers... Shouldnt i see oil here, eventually?

Is it not spinning fast enough, or am i just not waiting long enough...

I did find this post...
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91608&highlight=priming
 
The way that oil gets up to the top is by hydraulic pressure from the lifters. It is basically pushed through the pushrod by the pressure at the lifter. Under any priming condition it really shouldn't get oil up there without the lifters running.
 
It will get oil to the rockers, but takes awhile. I always let the lifters soke in a can of oil for a few days, lets oil seap into the lifters, and oil is there for assembly. Using the drill just doesn't have the speed to pump it faster to make alot of pressure.
 
Thanks guy's, Kinda what i thought, that unless the lifters are moving there not forcing oil up...
I'll replace the dang fuel hardline and fire it up next weekend, and check for oil up top after it runs for 20-30 seconds.
 
Unless you have a priming tool that has a "housing" near the bottom end that seals off the oil passage to the lifter galley you'll never get oil to the lifters. Now assuming the priming tool you have is of this design then you WILL get oil to the rockers even without the engine running and you will get full pressure (whatever it happens to be in your application).
 
Arron get the priming tool 4X4 high was talking about. You will see oil come out of the rocker arms if you use that tool. Or you can get a HEI dist. and cut off the weight section on the top and remove the bottom gear then you have made your own priming tool. Get oil out of the lifters and then set your valve lash.
 
Is a 14 volt cordless drill going to be strong enough to do this? I've smoked a corded drill before, only one I found that could really stand up to the time and pressure required to get oil to the rockers was a decent sized 1/2" corded one.
 
That one will work. I'm not sure why it says to use with a reversable drill though. The oil pimp turns clockwise to pump oil. If you ran the drill in reverse you won't get any oil movememnt let alone any oil pressure to register on a gauge.
 
4X4HIGH said:
That one will work. I'm not sure why it says to use with a reversable drill though. The oil pimp turns clockwise to pump oil. If you ran the drill in reverse you won't get any oil movememnt let alone any oil pressure to register on a gauge.
Click to expand...

that's what i thought...

Does that one have the blockoff to get oil up to the lifters?
I can grab the 1/2 inch corded drill and see what happens...

Also, is it safe to do like is mentioned in that article?
Pull the plugs, pull the coil wire, pull the gas feed, and crank it over for 30-45 seconds and check for oil up top... (they say to do this if you dont have a primer)
 
reddog64 said:
that's what i thought...

Does that one have the blockoff to get oil up to the lifters?
I can grab the 1/2 inch corded drill and see what happens...

Also, is it safe to do like is mentioned in that article?
Pull the plugs, pull the coil wire, pull the gas feed, and crank it over for 30-45 seconds and check for oil up top... (they say to do this if you dont have a primer)
Click to expand...

Yes that priming tool has the provision to seal the oil galley so you can get oil to the lifters.

I did not read the article so i can't say. I never prime any engines i build as i prime the oil pump with assembly lube before i install the pump and every moving part gets covered in assembly lube as well.

For people who don't want to buy a priming tool then just pull the coil wire and crank until you get oil pressure.
 
Aaron, Don't do the turn it over until the oil is to the lifters. How did you adjust your valves? Go to www.centuryperformance.com, go to the tech zone, then valve train. This is the easiest way I have seen to adjust valves. Loosen all of your rockers and get the correct priming tool. Prime the motor, rotate the engine a few times while priming. You will see oil come out of the rockers. Then adjust the valves per the link. If you adjust your valves wrong you can pull rocker studs out of the head, or keep a valve open, or bend a push rod, Good luck its easy
 
Aaron, Don't do the turn it over until the oil is to the lifters.
Click to expand...

i agree that it's best to fully prime first, but on the other hand, it isn't truly necessary, just a really good way to go. i've seen quite a few run well and long without being primed at all before their first startup. so don't get all freaked out and puke or anything.
 
To primarily adjust the rockers (before first start)
I set the motor to #1 TDC on it's power stroke (as the spark plug would fire, both valves closed)

at TDC I adjust #1
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #8
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #4
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #3
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #6
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #5
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #7
turn motor 90 degrees, adjust #2

I adjust them with a little slop, as the rockers should pump up enough


So should I set it this way (as i said above) to break the cam in, and then follow the final adjuctment off with the way you point to in the article Jeff?
 
Proper adjustment on a hydraulic lifter cam is zero lash plus anywhere between 1/2-1 turn more. I prefer to adjust with zero lash plus 1/2 a turn.
 
Pushrods should not be setup with any slop on a hydraulic motor. My understanding is that anymore (due to modern tolerances and materials), break-in is primarily for the cam and lifters...without the right load on them, I'd be a bit concerned that the break-in could potentially cause problems whether later on or right away.

Even GM states that you adjust hydraulics with "zero lash"...then 1/2-3/4 turn beyond that. Spin the pushrod, tighten rocker nut, as *soon* as you feel drag, stop. Then 1/2-3/4 turn. 1/2 has always worked for me. Probably calculated via the threads on the studs.

In the article he mentions a distance...with the same thread pitch, the turn of the nut will move things a given amount. Hydraulic lifters will absorb some difference, so except going for consistency that will be measured in hundredths of seconds over a quarter mile, measuring is likely unnecessary.
 
Make sure you add at least a half a turn on the adjuster nuts to preload the lifters, they can't do their job unless they have about .030" preload. In fact you can ruin the lifter by leaving them loose, they'll beat the clip right out of them.

I wouldn't be too worried about the primer, just make sure the rockers have some assembly lube on them. When you fire up the motor it should have at least 30-40 psi of oil pressure.

I assume you're using a flat tappet cam. If you are make sure you use a break in supplement like GM's EOS or something from the cam manufacturer. In fact use two bottles if you can, the new SM spec oil has very little extreme pressure additive that is needed to keep the cam alive. It's a good idea to use an additive at every oil change as well for the same reason.
 
So what i'm understanding is this (I'm gonna ramble here for a few...)

I'm adjusting the motor cold, and never run/broke in...
So when i set the valves, I want them tight with no slop... My thought was when the motor started, the lifters pumped up, and eliminated the slop. If this is not eh case, then i need to re-adjust my valves, the way i did it above, only instead of leaving soem slight play, I need to set them to zero lash (or just slightly tight - pushrod can spin but not easily) and then give them an additional 1/4 turn... - wouldnt thi scause the valve to start to open though???
 
bigblock72 said:
Make sure you add at least a half a turn on the adjuster nuts to preload the lifters, they can't do their job unless they have about .030" preload. In fact you can ruin the lifter by leaving them loose, they'll beat the clip right out of them.

I wouldn't be too worried about the primer, just make sure the rockers have some assembly lube on them. When you fire up the motor it should have at least 30-40 psi of oil pressure.

I assume you're using a flat tappet cam. If you are make sure you use a break in supplement like GM's EOS or something from the cam manufacturer. In fact use two bottles if you can, the new SM spec oil has very little extreme pressure additive that is needed to keep the cam alive. It's a good idea to use an additive at every oil change as well for the same reason.
Click to expand...

Can you tell me where to get said additive...
I just talked to another member about the additive your referring to...
 
I have never primed an engine. Always did as 4x4high posted. Use plenty of assembly lube, Prime the pump with lube. Pull the coil wire or the fuel pump fuse if FId. Crank engine till have oil pressure. Never had any problems.
I always add a pint of GM EOS in the oil to help break in the cam right. Good stuff. You can get it from your local GM parts. Just ask for GM EOS Asembly Lubricant. Part#88862586.
They changed the name a while back to Assenbly lubricant. Because of the federal issues with Zinc in oil they really cant sell it as an oil additive.
 
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