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priming the block after installation.

colbystephens

colbystephens

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so i'm putting my engine back together and i'm wondering if when i get the engine into the truck, should i fill the water jacket? i'm also curious if it's possible to manually turn the oil pump on my 6.2 - the machinist wasn't familiar with how to do it on this engine. i would imagine all it would take would be turning the crank - is this the case?
 
prime the oil

on my 350 i left the plugs out.spun the motor with a 1/2 drive ratchit.
4 to 5 revs brought oil to the rockers.install fan, shroud,plugs and fired
it up.
 
the best thing to do is take an old distributor that fits the motor take and grind of the gears put it in the motor attach a 1/2 inch drive drill and turn it on and have someone watch the oil pressusre gauge i usually do it till it quits rising also hleps to put engine assembly lube on everythng when puttin it all together
 
that would be good for an engine which has a distributor. anyone have any thoughts on the coolant? i'm not too concerned about the oil issue - i figure i'll dump a quart of oil over both heads before installing the valve covers, then i'll turn the crank by hand a few times before i try to fire it the first time. assembly lube ofcourse is a must - that's not what i'm asking.
 
im not sure on the 6.2 diesels, but on the newer FWD cars with a distributorless ignition, there is an oil pump shaft where the distributor would be. it runs off the cam and turns the oil pump. i would immagine that a diesel has the same thing. if thats the case, id see if a sbc distributor would fit init to prime it. or you can try to modify the stock oilpump shaft so you can hook a drill to it.
 
isn't the oil pump driven off the bottom of the vaccuum pump? I'd think you could use the same priming tool from a v8 on it.
 
Back when I was a Heavy Duty Diesel mechanic, we used to pack our oil pumps with Lithium grease for the initial fire up. This causes the pump to build pressure instantly, but I was mostly working on Detroit’s. Another thing we did to get them to take fuel on the initial fire up, was leave the fuel lines to the injectors cracked open a little bit, and then squirt a little ether down the air intake. We had to be extremely careful with the ether though. Too much can damage the engine. Once the thing fired, we immediately closed up the fuel lines. I do not particularly recommend the ether trick, but we did not care because the engines where not ours, but for a fleet of trucks we maintained.



 
I prime diesels for oil with a regulated pressure bottle through where ever you'd hook up a mechanical oil psi guage. I dunno about a 6.2, I've never had one apart, but most heavy's are directly driven off the geartrain. Pressure bottle, regulator, couple hoses couple fittings, and shop air. take the valve covers off, confirm oil at each rocker. Then fill the pan.

And the block will fill through the rad.
 
After some checking, it appears that you can indeed prime the oil pump by yanking the vaccuum pump. But, wouldn't it be easier to disconnect the injector pump wiring, and just crank it with the starter for a bit? The 6.2 should be priority main, so I wouldn't think it'd hurt anything.
 
BadBob said:
The 6.2 should be priority main, so I wouldn't think it'd hurt anything.
Click to expand...

i'm not familiar with that term. care to explain priority main? i'm pretty sure i'll be fine on oil - my main question was the coolant. thanks guys.
 
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