problem changing rear shock

[solowookie]

OK...

here is the problem; when I was unbolting the top of the rear shock on the drivers side the bolt broke. I am wondering what the easiest way is to get that thing off, and replace it. (big pain in the tush!)

I don't even know how I'd get a wrench of socket on the back of that thing. I'm kinda thinkin that I could drill a new hole and just relocate that bolt somewhere else???

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>

 

[Stoopalini]

I think you can fit a wrench (7/8 I believe) up behind the mount and take that bolt off. At least on my truck, I can.

That shock mount comes loose on my truck quite frequently, and I have to tighten it up. I've read other posts of people replacing that mount with a more sturdy one, due to the fact that it is not uncommon for the rear/drivers top shock mount to break off.

Good luck,

Thomas.

-- '84 1-Ton Blazer --
When the goin' gets tough,
the tough go 1-Ton

 

[solowookie]

well considering that the bolt broke off if I can get a wrench in there I won't really have any space. last thing I wanna do is try to break a bolt free in there...

I'm kinda thinkin this; grinder to get it off, and lock tight to keep the new one on.

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>

 

[78Jimmyish]

Mine did the same thing. I tried cutting the outside of the bolt off flush with the frame, and tried to punch it through - that didn't work. I ended up drilling it out to 3/8" and that gave it enough "give" to punch it through. Didn't drill all the way through, just an inch or so in - just enough to open up some space.

That was one of the many issues I had getting the new lift under a truck that's been rusting since 1978. Don't even get me started on the u-bolts. 8)

 

[BurbinOR]

Had that happen, used a sawzall to cut the bolt off right up against the frame mount. THen put in new one. Tightened it up GOOD............there is room to get a socket in the back by the tank with a multitude of extensions/wobblies, etc.

<font color=blue>'79 ONE TON TPI K5 - See it at---&gt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com>www.blazzinor.rockcrawler.com</a>

 

[solowookie]

let me tell ya what guys! this was a lot easier then I antcipated! well I started grinding, and the pounded on permanent washer came off so I could get a wrench on this thing!

well I got a wrench on it, and wedged a ratchet on the other side... came right off! well I got thinking I should grind that part off the new one so I could follow the procedure in reverse, and it worked!!! cake!

tell ya what if you guys gotta do this in the future I highly recommend this method!

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>

 

[dyeager535]

While your down there, weld that stud in. (and no this wasn't your problem, but it can become one)

My theory on why people have problems with the mounts is because on most of the K5's (later ones I have seen are actually held in like wheel studs and aren't likely as prone to this) that stud is bolted in. Since the shock cycles millions of times through its life, its basically hammering on that stud, where it has leverage. As that hole in the mount elongates, the "hammering" effect is magnified because the bolt can now move slightly. It just gets worse and worse, and eventually, gets enough force and works the rivets or metal enough that something fails.

Mine didn't fail like this on my '83, but the hole was elongated, and no matter how much I tightened it up, it would still move. Now, as a preventive measure on my '86, I welded both the studs in (from outside, its pretty easy) so that they aren't given a chance to work that mount as easily. BTW, if you do this, don't use locking nuts for the shocks, use two regular nuts or something, since if you use the locking nuts that rip into the threads, you'll wear the stud out eventually with shock removal/install.

IMO

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?

 

[solowookie]

man Dorian your endless wealth of knowledge never ceases to amaze me even on things like this that seem so trivial...

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>

 

[dyeager535]

Well, its just a theory, and very well may be disproven by someone else here. But thanks! Too bad I have all this seemingly worthless info saved in my brain, yet remembering stuff for tests is hard. Guess they just aren't as interesting as a vehicle

I wouldn't mind anyone else that has had problems with the shock mounts critique my theory though. I know some just put more stress on them than the metal can handle, but in my case, 235/75's and street driving shouldn't allow them to move around.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?

 

[solowookie]

well when it comes to technical crap that is how I am; my brain if just chucked full of crap...

I don't expect to have many major problems with this cuz this will just be used as a daily driver, and no off-road. I don't really expect it to have a whole lotta stress.

I gotta change the tie-rod ends, put on a new stabilizer, and put on the steering arm when I get it... other then those few things I am completely done! (and of course an alignment)

<font color=blue> Jeff - may the force be with you</font color=blue>
<a target="_blank" href=http://coloradok5.com/gallery/Jeffs-Stuff>link to k5's</a>