What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Problem? Or Not? Pics

oleo

oleo

Registered Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2007
Posts
64
Reaction score
0
Location
albuquerque
I bought some 3/4 ton axles and started on cleanup and changing gaskets and such. Front almost done just need to do brakes and finish paint.

Question #1 Any tricks to getting the cones out of the steering arm easily?

Question #2 I took the cotter pin out of the slotted nut/bolt that connects the drag link to the steerig arm and the bolt spins with the nut. Any tricks to getting this off?

Question #3 What are these peices of metal that I found in the sludge on the inside of the rear diff? And how much is it gonna cost me? LOL

100_1353.JPG

100_1357.JPG
 
oleo said:
I bought some 3/4 ton axles and started on cleanup and changing gaskets and such. Front almost done just need to do brakes and finish paint.

Question #1 Any tricks to getting the cones out of the steering arm easily?

Question #2 I took the cotter pin out of the slotted nut/bolt that connects the drag link to the steerig arm and the bolt spins with the nut. Any tricks to getting this off?

Question #3 What are these peices of metal that I found in the sludge on the inside of the rear diff? And how much is it gonna cost me? LOL
Click to expand...

There isn't much of a trick to getting the cones out really, just use some kind of penetrant and a BFH to get the steering arm off.

The slotted nut is called a castle nut. I think I heard of somebody using a C-clamp between the drag link end and the steering arm (or pitman arm) to put pressure on the drag link end so that the nut can come off. An impact gun may help too.

The pieces of metal are part of a bearing cage. At least one of the bearings (and likely all of them) are toast in the diff.
 
oleo said:
How tough is it to press in new bearings?
Click to expand...

Well, it requires a press and a bearing splitter, so if you have those, its pretty easy.

The problem is that if the bearings are that bad, its pretty likely that the ring and pinion are toast too. Even if they aren't, replacing the bearings requires resetting most/all of the specs on the diff (significantly more involved than unbolt and replace).
 
oleo said:
Question #1 Any tricks to getting the cones out of the steering arm easily?

Question #2 I took the cotter pin out of the slotted nut/bolt that connects the drag link to the steerig arm and the bolt spins with the nut. Any tricks to getting this off?
Click to expand...

1. you can get a set of "cone pliers" that really help to move those suckers up off of the stud after you get them loose by banging the steering arm, as already suggested.

2. somehow apply pressure to the bottom of this joint so that it will force the stud up into the hole to keep it in place. :)
 
Re: Ring and pinion shot!

Gears look to be clean and no problems. I spun them around and slid my finger on each fin of the ring gear and all were smooth and clean no gouges or nicks.

100_1362.JPG

100_1361.JPG
 
Look real hard at your pinion pilot bearing. It looks like the cage is missing in that pick but it is hard to tell . The rollers appear to be side by side and not seperated by the cage. I am willing to bet that's where your metal is from.

As noted up above ALL of your bearing could be damaged from the loose matel in the oil .


Tom
 
oleo said:
So with some time and patience, I can do this right?
Click to expand...



If you have the correct tools, equipment and are able to measure back lash than - Yes . Not to be rude but if pressing bearings on and off is something you need advice on than it might not be a job you want to get involved in.
If this is a play toy and IS NOT your daily driver than doing work and learning is a great way to explore building your truck but if you need this to get to work than don't get in over your head and make a situation worse.

Tom
 
re

No offense taken, and no not my daily driver. Hard to drive without floors. Trying to get these axles done in the garage while its to hot in the driveway.

Question though, if no one ever asked for advice (or was taught) how would anyone learn anything other than just doing it?

I think I am going to take a shot at it since the axles are in the garage next to the springs and other goodies in the shade. I figure as a college graduate with an engineering degree and 13 years of experience I may be able to figure this out. With a little advice.

Sounds like I took offense, but I really didn't.

100_1360.JPG

100_1226.JPG
 
It's all good !

Glad to hear it's not your daily driver . Now that we know you can take your time and get it done until it is correct - the learning and fun can begin .

You will need a way of pulling the bearings off of the carrier and one of the bearings on the pinion. The outer pinion bearing is not a press on piece. It might be easier just to take the pinion and carrier halfs to a garage and just pay to have them pressed off and the new ones on ( should not be much out of pocket exspense ).
The pinion support will have the races in it and they will need to be knocked out by means of a punch , or driver kit. The pilot bearing comes out by means of a punch also but there is a retaining ring that must be removed first.
You will need a total of two pinion bearings and races , two carrier bearings and races , a pilot bearing for the pinion , a new pinioon support seal and a NEW crush sleeve and pinion nut.
One thing you will want to look at very carefully is the pinion snout ( also the inner race to the pilot bearing ) for wear. Usually it gets scored up when the bearing goes south.
The best way to keep the back lash is to have a dial indicator but it is possible to CAREFULLY and ACCURATELY mark the side adjusters and get them real close in spec upon re-installation.

Take a pic of the pinion snout and we'll be able to tell you if all is well before you go further into this process .

HTH's Tom
 
Cool deal, sounds like a good reason to get dirty again this evening.

Thanks,

O
 
Hey Ole What The Hell Are Those Little Things? If Your Rear Is No Good Let Me Know Im Not Going To Leave You Hanging Like That If Its 4.09 Ill Get You Another One From The Junk Yard. Last Time I Was There There Was One Full Float Just Like Yours And I Believe It Was Suppose To Be A Gov Lock Ill Just Trade You Sorry Man Didnt Know It Was Bad
 
It really isn't that hard to do the bearings and or setup on a 14b FF it is one of the easiest to set up. You can get a dial indicator and mag base from harbor freight for pretty cheap. There are enough instructions on gear setting on the net that with some reading and time you will be just fine replacing all the bearings. Alot of times to get them pressed off you can go to a machine shop or even a tire shop that does mechanical work, they will press them off for a small fee.
 
Hey Tim my rear is just fine. LOL. Just some bearings looks like it'll be fun to change out. I think.
 
ok. man that still sucks. if you need a hand changing em give me a call i could probably learn something in the process. and im suppose to be getting that blazer soon so once a guy gets the title its a 78. i like the paint job you did on the front . is that a new cover cause its pretty sexy looking in white ?
 
You will need to do some reading in order to do this correctly. Its not hard but there is a procedure and you must follow the steps correctly. Read this link....http://pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/PR-ARB/articles/14b_Gear_Setup/ it will give you loads of information. Granted some steps in there you wont be following, like splitting the carrier. But you will need some important info like setting up the used gearset, and setting the pinion preload properly. I think the article covers all that. One thing you will have to consider is to do the job "correctly" you should replace the crush sleeve. You can buy a bearing kit which would come with everything you need. Actually Im not sure if it comes with a new crush sleeve, but I have 2 extras in my garage and I would be happy to give you one if you needed it. You would want to take the backlash measurement before you took anything apart. I like to check in atleast 4 places around the ring. You should be able to use the same shims under the pinion support and count how many turns you take the carrier adjusters out and when you set everything back up I bet it will come out pretty close to original. If you set the backlash back into original (prior to removal) specs I imagine you will be pretty fine as far as pattern goes. This is assuming that the original settings were still within specs. Which as far as these 14's go, I have seen some that have an ENORMOUS amount of backlash.

If any of what I said seems to confuse you thats ok. Just read the article, do more research and ask questions on here. Give it a try, its not that hard and its a pretty fun job. Just take your time and make sure you understand everything before you tear into it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom