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Problem with a Furd

hunterguy86

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Jan 10, 2005
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San Marcos, Texas
Sorry about the Ford questions.

I have a 93 Ford F-250 with the 7.3L Turbo Diesel.

It has a hard time starting up. It does not matter if its a cold or hot start.

You have to crank it over pretty good, then it starts and runs for about 2-5 seconds and dies.

You have to crank it for another minute or so before it starts up and runs.

Any ideas on what to check?
 
Check the glow plug relay with a test light at one of the glow plug connectors. It should apply power to the glow plugs for 15-20 seconds when the engine is dead cold and then will rapidly click on and off until the engine is started.

If it doesn't apply power to the glow plugs then the relay is bad, if it applies power but doesn't shut off or takes a long time to shut off then the glow plugs are bad.

Also inspect all the injector return lines for cracks or leaks, same with the fuel pump, any fuel leaks mean air leaks and diesels hate air in the fuel.
 
It sounds like you might have air getting into the lines.
 
I thought it was glow plugs but it does it even if the block heater is plugged in.

I'm beginning to think its an air leak somewhere as well. I was thinking I might have a cracked high pressure line going to an injector, but wouldn't that spray fuel if it was leaking?

I don't see any of the lines leaking fuel.
 
These old buggers rely on the glow plugs heavily to start. Even at 50 degrees with the block heater plugged they have a rough time if the glow plugs aren't up to snuff. If the motor is a little tired it's that much worse.

The glow plug system is easier to diagnose than the fuel system (unless there are obvious leaks) so I always start there. If the glow plugs check out good then it's time to dive into the fuel system, one thing at a time.
 
I agree with that. If it runs fine after the intial sputtering, you have fuel. Diesels are miserable without a good glow plug system. You should also check each plug with an ohm meter to make sure they are all pretty close in resistance. Open ones will make for a cold cylinder or two, but shorted ones can make most of them cold.
 
Check the return lines and cups on the top of the injectors. They are bad about leaking on the 7.3L of that era. They are black plastic cups that slide over the injectors with one or more rubber return lines coming off of them. If they are wet then they are leaking and can and will allow air into the system.
 

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