Problem with D60 lockouts. * Problem Solved* Pics added

[marine_enlisted]

When I got my D60 it was brand new, never had any lockouts on it at all, just the dually hubs and a plastic dust cap. So I have it converted to SRW hubs and I am trying to install the lockouts.

On the stub shaft , up against the spindle, was a washer, and an external snap ring in a groove in the stub shaft. I removed both of these items and slid on the aluminum hub body, followed by the spring, then the steel internal splined hub, next the external snap ring in the groove of the stub, then the large internal snap ring into the hub, next I put on the chrome, dial portion of the hub attached with the 6 allen bolts. The hub wants to stay locked all the time, and when it does unlock I can hear it sort of ratcheting, like the splines are barely contacting. These are the cheaper Warn 30 spline hubs, bought used from another member.

Am I doing something wrong? The washer and snap ring that were up tight against the spindle should not go back in anywhere , should they? I tried it for the hell of it and the hub body wouldn't seat in far enough to get the internal snap ring in.
/forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

The washer and snap ring that were on the stub, before I started and in the black rectangle on the left.

 

[az-k5]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts.

I don't think that there should be a washer in there at all.

Installation order (2 & 3 can be switched)
1) slide on hub guts
2) clip on stub shaft snap ring
3) shove in large gub outer snap ring
4) put on cap and allan screws

What hub brand is it. I have milemarkers and warns (along with OE) all sitting around for reference

 

[marine_enlisted]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts.

They're the standard Warns. I'm taking pics right now. I didn't put the washer back in.

 

[az-k5]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts. * Pics Added*

I ran into a similar problem on the trail with a member the other weekend. (pic reads: washer, little snap ring, hub guts, spring, gear, large snap ring w/little ring inside, chrome cap) Are the teeth on the gear the full width or only the first half has teeth then the gear is blank (referring to the outside of the gear). If it only half tooth than check to see if flipping it around will help. I am going outside to take off my hubs and check the configuration for sure.

 

[az-k5]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts. * Pics Added*

Just tore it down and re-assembled it. Inside the hub guts are two gear type rings. There is one that rides on the stub shaft and another -> the gear that is in the pic. The gear in the pic is the engagment gear. It rides inside the hub guts housing (the slug looking part) and when the hub is turned it is shoved over the little stub shaft gear. The stub shaft gear is the one that might be flipped. If it is it won't disengage and if it does disengage will rub like crazy. The stub shaft gear should only have gears for half of its width. The *blank* half should face out or away from the truck. I am guessing that might be the probelem. There is also a retainer screw that holds the guts in (small phillips head that goes into the 7th hole on the gut housing face). There is a lot more movement if it is not there.

I hope I am not sounding like I am talking down or doubting your ability. I am just being as descriptive as possible with out actual pictures to draw (my standard discussion aid when in person)

 

[marine_enlisted]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts. * Pics Added*

Thanks for tearing your truck apart. /forums/images/graemlins/bow.gif I have been looking at the stub gear, and that is in correct on mine. I did a little more checking, and I found the problem. When the dial is snugged up tight against the hub body, the black plastic actuator piece protrudes far enough to keep the slug ring just barley touching the stub gear, thats why it won't unlock and if id oes come un locked, it is touching enough to make the ratcheting sound. When the dial is turned all the way to "free" I can at the ramp or can mechanism on the back side of the dial and I can see the little pin that rides on the cam, When at the "free" position, it still needs to turn about 1/4" to to make the dial pull all the way up into the cap so it's no longer protruding and locking the hub. How can I get the dial apart to fix this?


This shows the dial turned as far as it will go to the "free" position.

Here is the back side of the dial in the "free" position showing that the cam is still protruding.

The red arrow by my dirty thumbnail, shows the little pin that rides on the cam. It is stopped in the "free" position, about 1/4 in from the yellow arrow, which is the top of the ramp or cam, where it should be when turned to "free".

Here is the dial maxed out in "lock" the arrows are not lined up.

Here is the back side of the dial in the "lock position"

 

[marine_enlisted]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts. * Pics Added*

I figured it out. /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif The guy I bought these from had rebuilt them right before I got them. The cams were installed incorrectly. I have never had a set of these apart before, and couldn't figure out how to get the dials out. Then I peeled the little Warn dacal from the center and there is a screw back there. /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif There is a little pentagon shape to index the dial assembly together, and it was one flat off. I feel like a total jackass for not figuring this out sooner. /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif



Before (incorrect)

After (correct)

 

[az-k5]

Re: Problem with D60 lockouts. * Pics Added*

Glad to hear you got it. I actually have the stock GM/dodge style which is simply a cheap warn hub with the sticker already peeled off.