CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Problem with rear end I think

Did you hear the noise with cover and oil in the diff.
I have never listened to a different under power w/o oil. Can't say whats is bad and what's normal.
Since the cover is off cheap the back lash, inspect the spider gears for play, wobbly on pin, pinion for play, and any chipped teeth.
 
I see new u-bolts and shocks plus the driveshaft shows several inches of freshly exposed slip yoke, my bet you're hearing a driveline vibration (from the lift / angle issues) echoing through the driveshaft tube. Is the lift kit new?

Edit: That driveshaft is too short also.
 
Did you hear the noise with cover and oil in the diff.
I have never listened to a different under power w/o oil. Can't say whats is bad and what's normal.
Since the cover is off cheap the back lash, inspect the spider gears for play, wobbly on pin, pinion for play, and any chipped teeth.
Yeah I heard the noise with cover on I’ll check all that thank you
 
Can we see a picture of the drive shaft, the angles. Is this a cv drive shaft or just 2 u joints.
 
I see new u-bolts and shocks plus the driveshaft shows several inches of freshly exposed slip yoke, my bet you're hearing a driveline vibration (from the lift / angle issues) echoing through the driveshaft tube. Is the lift kit new?

Edit: That driveshaft is too short also.
Yeah that was the old one I got a new one from Tom woods driveshaft built for me I just installed it, the blocks I just put in with new bolts it has a 4 inch suspension lift for some reason he had the front lifted and not the rear so i put blocks in until I could afford new leaf springs how would I got
About correcting the angle
 
Also, consider pulling the rear driveshaft and driving it to see if it still does it. You'll need to cap the tcase tailshaft to keep from spilling fluid while driving, the bottom 4"-5" of a water bottle taped on the tcase will work.
 
Check the Tom Woods or High Angle Driveline websites for good angle diagnosis info (with pics) and explanations on how to correct it. You can use a real angle finder or a phone app.
 
Yeah that pinion need to rotate up, I got mine within .5° slightly down.
The axle will try to rotate u under power.
Everyone says + or - 2° is good. I have the vagueist vibration from 1900 to 2150 rpm.
 
 
You need to decide now what your suspension plans are, before you start welding the perches in differently. If you replace the blocks with a lifted spring the pinion angle will likely be different. If you replaced the blocks with a shackle flip and the stock spring the pinion angle will definitely change. No need to grind the perches off and weld them back on twice.
 
Did you hear the noise with cover and oil in the diff.
I have never listened to a different under power w/o oil. Can't say whats is bad and what's normal.
Since the cover is off cheap the back lash, inspect the spider gears for play, wobbly on pin, pinion for play, and any chipped teeth.
One spider gear is alittle loose no chipped teeth when I spun the wheel with driveshaft off both axle bearings where loud
 
First thing is agreed on ditching the 10Bolt rear axle - it’s the smallest and most problematic rear axle ever put in ANY year full-size GM truck.
That being said the initial noise is not the fault of the rear end itself - it’s from, just as the others have said, the u-joint angle bind.
The noise was from the unharmonious speeding up and slowing down of the joints therefore causing the R/P to clack/slap back and forth together because the tires being off the ground gave no resistance to calm things down.
Driving that thing with those angles would cause tremendous chatter vibrations at speeds and really bad upon letting of the accelerator.
 
With a CV shaft you want the pinion in line with the t case output…your pinion needs rotated up.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom