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Problem with surging while stopped

hows the body? i think u should just sell it ! /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gifto me! /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gifgood luck.that is all. /forums/images/graemlins/crewcab.gif
 
Has the truck always done this????

If so, I would hunt down the problem and fix it before looking into other mods. Make this one run right, and you may be happy with it's performance and save the money for other mods. Knowing the condition of the motor in the first placecan save further headaches.

The 600 Holley can be used if you drive conservatively, and keep the rpm's down. I would get a few good reads on the spark plugs for the fuel mixture, as you may need to fatten it up a bit. The use of the metering plate on the 1850 carb does not allow you to fatten up the secondaries....

I would rather use a 750 cfm carb or bigger on a big block though....

As far as cams go, I would rather give Comp Cams a call rather than run an Edelcrap cam. So much more thought goes into their camshafts than Edelbrock ever thought of....

It sounds like the previous owner hacked the engine up, now you can make it run right and make him wish he had never sold it in the first place /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
It actually seems to be runningn really rich as is and sad to say I'm 23 and drive like a grandpa anyway.The truck actually seems to run fine except for the weird idle and the rocking front to back at the stop lights. I think the PO did do a hack of a swap but everythings seems to work OK I would just like it to work a little better. My thoughts on replacing carb, manifold, and cam were that if the problem lies in the small carb and emissions intake then replacing those items would help solve it. The fuel consumption is horrible right now though I have driven back and forth to work for about a week now and am getting about 4-5 miles per gallon so I really want to get that up to at least 9-10 or more. I'll give Comp and chance, I was starting to lean that way anyhow.
 
Where do you live??? Fill out the profile out a bit, there may be a CK 5'r next door that would help /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/woot.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

On mileage /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif Welcome to the BBC /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

You say it smells rich, what does the exhaust pipe and spark plugs tell you?

If you do not find a vaccuum leak, (use propane) get out the timing light, vaccuum gauge and tach.

The timing light could tell you if the timing is right. It is 'possible' the PO timed it/adjusted the idle to 'sound' like that.... /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif

I would like to get a base reading on what the vaccuum is at idle, and watch for it being steady....

I think a tach is a good thing to have /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif

Those three things can help trace many things down.... /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I'm from Lubbock, Tx. Not expecting great mileage, but figure it should be better based on how I drive. I honestly haven't had a chance to look at the plugs or change them yet. I've only had the truck about a week and between working graveyard and caring for my wife and 3mth old son theres not a lot of time so I get a chance for a few hours per week. The tail pipe is pretty sooty though but no smoke of any kind coming out. I plan on trying to do the "loan a tool" program from the parts store to get the vacuum gauge, fuel pressure gauge, and timing light next week to try and track down the problem. You said usepropane and I was told above about carb cleaner. On the propane are you talking like one of the little portable torches? If so I've got one here and could test that now. I would love to have a tach but don't have one from the factory and would prefer to add one that is factory so that may have to wait, is there an external tach I could use and maybe include with the other tools borrowed from the parts store? The real problem here is that Scoggin-Dickey Parts center is right down the street from my house /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif Hmm...crate engines and parts with no shipping! /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif
 
You live by Scoggin Dickey? That is cool, but dang what a tease /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif /forums/images/graemlins/yikes.gif

Yes the small propane bottle. Just turn it on low, (don't light /forums/images/graemlins/whistling.gif) and pass it over all the hoses, all the way around the manifold, carb, base plate and throttle shaft bushings.

Things to look for. Is the vaccuum advance hooked up? Is the vaccuum modulater for the trans hooked up, and is the hose in good shape? There should be a larger hose going to the brake booster, possibly coming out of the intake itself.

Listen for leaks under the dash. If routed wrong, this could be the problem. Test for a large leak by cupping your hands over the carb, trying to seal the air out. If it smooths out, then there is definately a large leak somewhere. If it tries to die, then there could be a 'smaller' leak, or most likely a different problem altogether....

There a few places a vaccuum leak is very hard to find. internal brake booster, vac. adv. diaphram, vac. modulater on the trans. If you do not find any simple obvious leaks, disconnect and plug each of these individually.

To cold of a spark plug could contribute to the problem also....

Just some thoughts for you and others to comment on....
 
Thanks that gives me some more to check on I appreciate the help. SDPC is a huge tease it is just about 5 minutes strait down the road. my in-laws used to live in a house where by looking out the front window you saw the back of the shop. Needless to say I spent a LOT of time at there house drooling on the windows. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 
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Needless to say I spent a LOT of time at there house drooling on the windows.

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/forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif

An intake manifold can leak internally through the lifter valley, hard to find.

Some aluminum manifolds can become 'porous' and just plain leak also....

/forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
Okay lets see if this makes sense? I checked the hoses w/ the propane and got no response althought they do look old and I will be replacing them soon. Then I tried cupping my hands over the carb and it died. Okay start looking closer and realize the little door on the carb (sorry don't know term) is flapping a little and is not connected by the small rod to the throttle linkage (cruise side) so I reconnect the rod. Now door still seems stiff and doesn't close all the way. The idle seems to have smoothed some and it seems to drive with a little more umph!. So could this be a major part of the problem? The carb does seem old a might need a rebuild or adjustment still but I do plan on upgrading to a 750cfm so not too worried about that at the moment. Just curious if this could be the problem? While snooping around though I did find out that the intake and carb gaskets seem to be leaking so planning on replacement there. Also that the intake is and Edlebrock intake with egr. I could'nt read the model number cause it was covered in crud but will try tomorrow to clean it up and try to identify the model. This does make me wonder about the timing and possible cam as the cause of the lumppy idle. I'll be checking that latter this week. It does seem to have a lot of valve noise but that may be something I'm not used to (always had 4cy and V6s) kinda a constant clacking from the movement of the rocker arms. Sorry to be long winded but the jump into V8 Big Block land has become very exciting.

Monty
 
pauly383K10 I can't pm but what about just listing what components should be connected and a brief description how they are connected. Or for that matter any vacuum diagrams to kinda go by. Just looking for a general idea. Like whatever the small can thing is between the beak booster and the drivers hood hinge, has vacuum hoses that aren't hooked up at all. What is it and where do they go type thing is what I am looking for.

Thanks,
Monty
 
Lets see, the ball/can on drivers side was for the cruise control I believe. If there is one on the passengers side, it is for the A/C controls in the dash. Do you have a vacuum canister on the drivers side behind headlights? If emissions doesn't matter then you just need to hook up brake booster, vacuum advance, pcv valve. If you want a basic diagram ( since I couldn't find your exact ones ) , that I do have at home and could send tonight. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
A basic one will probably do for now. I have the can on the driver side and the ball on the passenger side above the blower motor. Nothing behind the drivers headlight. It does have the cruise stuff but not hooked up. You said the ball was for the a/c what does it do exactly and what should be conected to it cause right now I have nothing as far as a/c, heater, or vent fan. I know the compressor is burnt up but the blower fan is not working at all and I was wondering what the vacuum controlled on the a/c system? The cam is a possibility since I am staring to think maybe the PO did more than I thought to the engine.
 
That ball for a/c system I believe was to hold vacuum for opening certain vents, since they couldn't have cables running to them all. There is usually a line on firewall from under dash to top of ball, and from bottom of ball to vacuum tee behind carb on intake. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Is the line on top a really small one? I've got a really small vacuum line coming from the firewall by the heater core/ a/c stuff and the lenght would only let it go to the ball but I couldn't figure out how it attached.


Never mind I just went to check it and on mine it the small one also goes into the bottom, which seems to have corrected my idle problem. it is now nice and smooth. While I was there I also saw that the plug for the blower fan had come unplugged now I have a heater too. Thanks so much. One more vacuum question though. The can on the drivers side between the booster and hinge I was talking about turns out to be the wiper motor. It has a medium sized vacuum hose coming off the top that has been plugged and two more smaller ports next to the med. port. What are these supposed to be for?
 
[ QUOTE ]
he can on the drivers side between the booster and hinge I was talking about turns out to be the wiper motor. It has a medium sized vacuum hose coming off the top that has been plugged and two more smaller ports next to the med. port. What are these supposed to be for?

[/ QUOTE ]

If they are actually on the wiper motor are and not separate I would assume they are water in from washer bottle/tank and the other two are to each wiper nozzle. I will look on mine as soon as I lock my store up. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
That makes sense but I don't have a washer resevoir or a button for the washer unless I don't know where the washer button is. Deffinately no washer resevoir though, it might have been removed or this motor is from a truck that had one.

Monty
 
Then dont worry about it.Remove the hoses there then, if no hoses come from , or go to it, your ok /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
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