problem with x-over steering

[jp0863]

i have a question or concern about my x-over. i just installed it on my k5 and have a small issue. on the passenger side steering arm, the directions say to use the forward most hole in the arm if not doing the high steer kit. well i cant get the castle nut down far enough to get the cotter pin through the hole in the balljoint. as it is now i cant even get the smallest cotter pin in cuz there isnt enugh of the hole showing. any suggestions?

 

[sweetk30]

best call. i know in the past thay had a small parts problem with the rod ends. mabey that got hit again with the bad parts bug.

and on my 60 mine goes in the front hole. and high steer is rear .

 

[extremetahoe]

You could get a reamer and ream out the hole just a hair and wollllaaaa... But they aren't cheap that's the thing. Mine costs me 75.00.. But hey you never know when it will come in handy or to make you a little money. It's an investment kinda thing. Hope this helped. But someone on here that is close to you has probably got one that they let you use or do the work for you. It would only take about 30 seconds. You would spend more time plugging the drill in than reaming the hole. Later.

 

[jp0863]

mine is in the front hole and it is bottomed out, still not enough thread so i dont think reaming it out will help much. ill call in the morning. thanks

 

[Shiprekd]

How did you make out? What was their response?

I had several problems with my "kit". The first thing was the steering arm was a so called "Blem" gave me a tiny credit on my shipping...

Second, The same thing happened with my dre, just barely enough to get a real small cotter thru it.

Also had to cut my draglink down almost an inch and a half to get it in correctly and still don't have enough adjustment to str8 out my steering wheel.

I like ORD, but I'm definately not happy with the kit I got.

 

[hack500]

i have a question or concern about my x-over. i just installed it on my k5 and have a small issue. on the passenger side steering arm, the directions say to use the forward most hole in the arm if not doing the high steer kit. well i cant get the castle nut down far enough to get the cotter pin through the hole in the balljoint. as it is now i cant even get the smallest cotter pin in cuz there isnt enugh of the hole showing. any suggestions?

leave the cotter pin out and use some medium-strength threadlocker.

 

[K10ANDYKHAMNIC]

If anyone has problems with our parts CALL US right away! We have not been able to check this forum often enough for it to substitute for a phone call. As for the nuts we have other nuts to send if you have a an issue with the ones your were sent. A thinner cotter pin is easy to find for some guys, not so easy for others.

On the draglink length, we obviously send you a very educated guess on the length and can't hit it every time. We do purposely leave them long so that they can be cut down if you need to. Just measure up the threads and chop it off but it's usually not good for more than about 1/2-3/4" on each side.

As always, if you have any problems, call us and we'll get it figured out.

 

[Shiprekd]

My only real issue is the draglink. I can't cut it down any more for adjustment. I cut almost 1" off the str8 end and a half off the bent end. Still can't get the full turning radius to the left. Seems if it were a half -2- 3/4 shorter, I could get full radius with just enough to get my steering wheel str8.

It's way better now than when it was uncut..

 

[bp71k5]

I just test drove my x-over yesterday and it works pretty good. ORD seems to do a pretty ice job and are really responsive over the phone.

I didn't cut the draglink any, but the ends are screwed all the way in. I could probably cut 1/2" off and it would be even better, but I don't want to mess with it for a while.

I still have the kinda loosy-goosy chevy steering that all these trucks seem to have. It's better with the x-over, but still not like my vw.

 

[79k20350]

I just test drove my x-over yesterday and it works pretty good. ORD seems to do a pretty ice job and are really responsive over the phone.

I didn't cut the draglink any, but the ends are screwed all the way in. I could probably cut 1/2" off and it would be even better, but I don't want to mess with it for a while.

I still have the kinda loosy-goosy chevy steering that all these trucks seem to have. It's better with the x-over, but still not like my vw.

What condition is your box in? are you running a steering box brace? answer those questions and you'll find your loose steering.

 

[bp71k5]

It's a reconditioned box. I've had three of them on there. I "good" used one, the rebuilt one that came with the truck and this one I bought. It's not loose when the box is off the truck, but once everything is all hooked up, the steering wheel moves back and forth with not movement in the box.

Some people say to adjust the little screw on top, and some people say that'll screw everything up, so I left it the way it came. If it can be tighter i wouldn't complain, but I know these trucks didn't come with high-end rack-n-pinion steering from the factory.

 

[79k20350]

It's a reconditioned box. I've had three of them on there. I "good" used one, the rebuilt one that came with the truck and this one I bought. It's not loose when the box is off the truck, but once everything is all hooked up, the steering wheel moves back and forth with not movement in the box.

Some people say to adjust the little screw on top, and some people say that'll screw everything up, so I left it the way it came. If it can be tighter i wouldn't complain, but I know these trucks didn't come with high-end rack-n-pinion steering from the factory.

Most likely the movement is coming from your factory rag joint. loose this for a double ended u joint setup (the steering shafts off of xj's work perfect) and itll be nice and tight!