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84gmcjimmy

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I went to lordco today (canadian auto parts store) to buy a pickle fork. I went in there and the guy asks "whats a pickle fork, I've never heard of that before" then a lady across the store says " I think this is what he means" then she point to a steering wheel puller. I go over and see what else they have, and they have a pickle fork. I point to it and say thats it. The guy asks me what it's for, and I said 84 blazer (assuming he knew it was a chevy) so he said, okay chevy. Then he asks 4x4? I respond saying yes. I go pay for it... 60 bucks+ taxes! Luckily my dad has a membership there, so we got it for 50. But I look at the recept... it says FORD on it. Are ford and chevy steering parts (mainly the steering box parts; pitman arm and rod thingy i'm trying to get off, the same? Boy did that pss me off. It even said ford on the tag. I did't notice it until we were halfway home. So I will ask here if it will work. If not I will return it and find the rightone myself.
Some people should not work at places like that unless they're qualified. geeeez :mad:
 
As far as I know there are only 2 different pickle forks. One for tierod ends and one for seperating ball joints. The one for ball joints has a wider gap between the forks then the one for TRE's. $60 is pretty expensive. I think I paid $10-15 US each for my pickle forks.

Harley
 
There is no difference between Ford, Chevy, Dodge that I am aware of by the way.

Harley
 
okay, so it should work? I THINK I need it for ball joints. Any one know the measurement across the wideest point inbewtwwen the forks so I can measure and be sure?
Yeah, it's the only place in town that had one...
 
Do you need the pickle fork to sperate the tierod ends and draglink ends or do you need to seperate the knuckles from the axlehousing?

Harley
 
steve i measured the pickle fork i use which works both on ball joints and 4x4 tie rods. it measures 1" wide front to back, no change in width.
 
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I've *never* used a pickle fork to separate balljoints or tierods.

Just take the cotter pins & nuts off. Then you take a 5lb sledge and whack the side of the link or knuckle that has the tapered hole. The impact causes the shape of the taper to deflect momentarily releasing the balljoint.

Now you can separate joints and have some hope of re-using them if they're not worn out.
 
The difference between the Ford and the Chevrolet fork is one is standard and the other is metric. I just don't remember witch is witch. You might be able to use the wrong one by turning it over.
 
Harley, sorry for my lack of knowledge, but I am using it to get the steering assembly apart so I can take the steering box off. I haven't looked at it for a week, but there is an arm on the bottom of the steering box, then that goes across and attaches with a [balljoint???) then that rod goes and attaches to a "C" shaped thing on the steering knuckle. Someone suggested/said I need a pickle fork to take it apart, or I could hit it real hard with a hammer. I just thought i'd use the pickle fork in the future to help with steering and all that, so I bought that.
Rubbin, thanks for the measurement, I will go measure mine in the morning.
 
u2slow said:
I've *never* used a pickle fork to separate balljoints or tierods.

Just take the cotter pins & nuts off. Then you take a 5lb sledge and whack the side of the link or knuckle that has the tapered hole. The impact causes the shape of the taper to deflect momentarily releasing the balljoint.

Now you can separate joints and have some hope of re-using them if they're not worn out.
Click to expand...
I can't get the nut off though, it's on there good.
 
JIM88K5 said:
The difference between the Ford and the Chevrolet fork is one is standard and the other is metric. I just don't remember witch is witch. You might be able to use the wrong one by turning it over.
Click to expand...
Yikes, so I might not beable to use it? Should I return it then?
 
it's only just a wedge that you drive between the joint to seperate it. i wouldn't see what diff would be? by the way they can tear good grease boots !
 
Shouldn't be that bad, but then again your are up north with snow and salt and such. If you plan on not reusing it then bang on it with the sledge, but if you want to re-use it then seperate it with the pickle fork. I have used one for either tierods or ball joints. But then again I have beat them out with a BFH due to they were headed for the dumpster. Try soaking it with wd-40 or another lubricant. I tend to use my 1" drive sockets on bigger steering parts makes it alot easier or add a breaker bar to your ratchett/wrench to assist it off. Good luck. Sory been drinking but should helpyou some.
 
Dude, I yankin your chain. No standard or metric. If you doing balljoints on a 10blt you'll need a special socket for the upper joint. No hammer or pickle fork will get them apart. Do a search on balljoints. Some did a story on it a while back... :xmas:
 
Special Socket????? REFER TO TITLE. never heard of that. Just did it on a 10 bolt and used standard sockets on my ball joints..........upper and lower.
 
ah, so I need a special socket for the nut I'm trying to get off?
This is getting confusing, i thought it was going to be easier.
 
my dads friend replaced a bunch of stuff up front, so I don't know if the balljoint is new or not. I will take it off, as if it were new then...
 
I did not need a special socket to remove my ball joints from the knucle nor the nut from the ball joint. Just something in the size of 1" plus socket. Now if your removing it from the knuckle then I would suggest a press if your going to reuse it, but if not a BFH will work the same. I do not have a press at my leisure so BFH to get it off and a socket to go around it to put it back in. Like I said earlier, if you are having problems getting the nut off, find a piece of pipe to fit arounf the socket/wrench your using, preferbly 2'+ in lenght and it will come off with ease. if your using just a standard 1/2 or 3/4" socket then yes it will be a pain in the a$$. I guess you could call a 1" socket set a specialty if you want but I have always had this in my roll away......... Too bad your not closer or I would come and give you a ahnd.
 
I was using a wrench when I tried, but when I tried to use a cheater pipe, the wrench would slip off and fall on the cement.
I just realized my dad has a box of big sockets, I never thought to look in there for the right one. But I just have a 1/2" ratchet, I think.
Thanks stomper, you seem like a cool guy, too bad you weren't closer to help! LOL
 
Yeah will have to try the socket. I tried the wrench on my lower ball joint and was a PITA to get off, then I figured out all I had to do was remove the axle shaft by pulling on it to get it out of the way. Felt like a dumba$$ after I figured that one out. If you plan on doing alot of suspension work, go ahead and invest in a set of 1" drive sockets andsuch. I am glad I have my set especially since I am modifying something every few months. Makes it alot easier with the bigger sockets and have strayed away from the wrenches. I have seen a full set up to 2" sockets for under 100 bucks and I still haven't used the largest. I keep them at work for the 7 ton trucks and such...........
 
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