What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

problem

Where is a good place to get a 1" socket set? I'm guessing it would come with a larger 1" ratchet too? I don't think we have something like that here, and if we do, the parts counter guy will probably make me feel like an idiot again.
 
steve just a thought since you are messin with ball joints and such. say on the lower ball joint. you have axle on jackstands, you try to loosen lower joint retaining nut. it turns the tapered shaft as well. jack up on knuckle to shaft into knuckle. it works! manuals don't mention this! by the way iirc that socket size is 1 1/4"
 
u2slow said:
I've *never* used a pickle fork to separate balljoints or tierods.

Just take the cotter pins & nuts off. Then you take a 5lb sledge and whack the side of the link or knuckle that has the tapered hole. The impact causes the shape of the taper to deflect momentarily releasing the balljoint.

Now you can separate joints and have some hope of re-using them if they're not worn out.
Click to expand...


I do the same. Never had a problem getting one appart with this method. I find puttin a little leverage in the direction it comes appart helps. Worst one I ever had took 6 pops with the sledge. That was on my Supra. Couldn't get a good straight shot on it.

$50 is outragious. they are like $10 from Northern and Harbor.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=38649

I would get these first and the nthe hammer trick.
http://order.harborfreight.com/EasyAsk/harborfreight/results.jsp?ts=Fri Dec 17 21:28:37 PST 2004
 
I have three different pickle forks, and attachments to use my air hammer. I often find that there is no room for the hammer trick, but I do that when possible.

Oh btw I paid $30 usd for all that stuff.

You guys are forgetting the Canuck dollar is worthless. :D
 
shouldent you post about your fantasys with pickles in the lounge like all the other weirdos
 
This thread is kind of confusing so I am going to try and clear it up some.

You don't have to have a pickle fork to seperate the steering parts, it just makes it easier.

If you are trying to get steering parts off so you can get the steering box off you need only the pickle fork and the wrench to get the nuts off the TRE's and DLE's.
17184.JPG


To get the knuckles off the easiest way is the pickle fork and the wrenches or sockets to get the nuts off.





The Special socket being refered to is to adjust the upper ball joint. You do not need this socket to remove the knuckle. This socket
33253.JPG
You only need this socket to correctly adjust the preload on the upper ball joint.

Harley
 
Steve, do you have a good chiltons or that sort of book for your rig? They are a godsend for stuff like this The pictures in them make it easier to visualize what is being said. I have an older one (copyright 1984 or something around there) it has all of the old timer tricks in it you don't get in the new ones. I have never needed the pickle fork for the ball joints but I use it as often as I can on the DLE's and TRE's.


hh
 
I hate Lordco for stuff like that, they can be real gougers when they want to be...and I guess it was your turn.


Tim, the exchange rate right now is only $1.22 or so...the US greenback has been taking a whalloping the last 6 months to a year. There is no sane reason a pickle fork should be $50 CDN or US.

Rene
 
I am using it to get the steering assembly apart so I can take the steering box off. I haven't looked at it for a week, but there is an arm on the bottom of the steering box, then that goes across and attaches with a [balljoint???) then that rod goes and attaches to a "C" shaped thing on the steering knuckle
Click to expand...

The pitman arm is attached to the steering box.
The draglink connects the pitman arm to the steering arm which is attached to the knuckle.

Have you removed the cotter pin?
The draglink has 5/8" nuts on it, ya need a 15/16" wrench to start with.
It shouldn't take much to spin the nut once the cotter pin is removed.
If it is rusted on there ya better hit it with some PB Blaster and let it sit for a bit.
Crank on it to much and the ball will start spinning in the socket.
Then it gets realy fun.
Replacement boots are availible BTW

I have the front clip off my rig and just looked at it.
Remove the nut from the draglink at the pitman arm and turn it over so the slots in it are facing down and thread it down till the top of the nut is flush with the threaded portion of the ball.
With the wheels pointed straight ahead you have a straight shot at the pitman arm. Smack the end of it a few times with a hammer.
BTW a 40 OZ hammer works well for that.
Then smack the nut. It should pop right out.
Smacking them a few times is ok but don't get wild and beat the crap out of it.
If it won't turn loose after a few whacks grab the pickle fork and alternate hitting the fork and the nut.
 
powermad, thanks for that. I will try what you suggested, and now I know what parts I am dealing with. I'm going to try to do it either today, or maybe monday. So if I get it I will post up. I also have to jack the front up, someone suggested that would be easier to get the steering box on the frame so I can get the draglink/pitman arm apart!
I think I have a haynes and a chiltons manual, I didn't think they would have this in it though? woops. I will find that today and study it for whenever I take it apart.
Thanks for all the help.
 
I only use a pickle fork if I know that I am replacing the tie rod end or whatever I am taking off. The pickle fork can have a tendancy to tear the rubber where the grease is, then you need to replace it anyway.
 
An impact wrench will get that nut off. I have a really old pickle fork that I have used on everything. It is also 1" in the middle. Bring that one you bought back and go somewhere better, you got screwed. Even Sears might have one for cheaper.
 
84gmcjimmy said:
powermad, thanks for that. I will try what you suggested, and now I know what parts I am dealing with. I'm going to try to do it either today, or maybe monday. So if I get it I will post up. I also have to jack the front up, someone suggested that would be easier to get the steering box on the frame so I can get the draglink/pitman arm apart!
I think I have a haynes and a chiltons manual, I didn't think they would have this in it though? woops. I will find that today and study it for whenever I take it apart.
Thanks for all the help.
Click to expand...

I suggested ya raise the front wheel to remount the steerbox in your other post.
It can be sorta awkward and be a PITA if ya don't.
With the wheel raised you don't fight it as much going back up.
You just need to get a couple of bolts back in it, just enough to support it so you can remove the draglink.

Getting a repair manual would be a wise investment at this point. :D
Oh and the Harbor freight flyer had a set of ATD pickle forks. $28. 3 prongs, 15/16", 1 1/16" and 1 1/8", with 2 interchangeable handles. One for beating on with a hammer and another for an air hammer.
I would take that fork back and get a set elsewhere. That's pretty spendy for just one. Unless it says Snap On.
Generaly I can remove a TRE (Tie Rod End) with out damaging the boot with a fork.
And if I am hammering on the fork hard enough to damage the boot the situation has switched to drastic and a 9 pound hammer is involved and will require another end anyway.
Thanxs to TRW I have lots of time removing TRE's
Of course OTC makes a tool for removing lil TRE's that works pretty slick, I think I paid $60 for it. Universal tie rod end press
I did find that my Snap On pitman arm puller works excellant on the big TRE's at work.
The OTC press does not fit over the pitman arm though, if cracking the end of the arm doesnt pop it loose then a fork will be needed.
Tap the fork in till it is nice and snug and then smack the nut.
Remember to turn the nut over and run it down. That gives a nice striking surface and will protect the threads if ya plan on reusing it.

The Snap On fork Harley posted is the one I use to remove TRE's, draglinks and ball joints from light duty rigs.
 
Last edited:
Actualy I use the fork to seperate the balljoint fom the knuckle.
$130 for the OTC ball joint press, works well for small u-joints too.
Pretty cheap considering I spent over $300 on a u-joint press for the rigs I work on.
 
I already have a manual, I just need to get it out... I keep forgetting about that.
I guess on monday I will go back to Lordco and return the pickle fork. Then afeer X-mas I will order a pickle fork set off of habour freight.
What does OTC stand for?
Where can I get that press you are talking about. Is is suggested It would be a good investment if I do a lot more of this stuff in the future?
I will jack it up tomorrow and get a buddy to help me if I can't manage by myself. Then I will use the method you suggested doing without using the pickle fork, so I can take it back and get my money back.
Should I also pickup a pitman arm puller off the internet (HF???) too?
Thanks for the help. I will probably do this tomorrow or monday. I am pretty sure I understand how to do it the way you said. If I have troubles I will post up!
 
Its a brand name--

OTC is a brand of tools --just like snap-on or cornwell,doesnt have to be that brand,the OTC company makes a lot of chassis tools,so many mechanics have that brand...:crazy:
 
oooh ic. I will search google later to see if I can find all these tools you guys are talking about.

After I get the steering box off, I just need to unbolt the springs front and rear, unbbolt the axles, and then shes ready to take into the shop for the winter. The only thing I'm having problems with is the motor mounts go over top of the fuel lines, so I can't pull them out without taking the mounts off. And the mounts have a bolt in an ackward place. DOH!
 
Okay, I'm going to make a new thread with new questions.
I got the steering box bolted up, and I am about to hit the nut...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom