hey all i know this may seem like a really dumb question but i'm having alot of problems w/ my hubs coming off i got half of it off but where part of it attatches to the axel shaft coming out into the rotor it wont slide off for what ever reason i did pull the snap ring off and as far as i can tell everything that i need to pull off is off. is there somthing i'm missing its really agervating me and i need to really change my rotars. i know there is a special tool to take off the bolt that holds the bearings inplace but the tool i got doesnt fit inside the piece that the locking deal bolts too and ya i'm really confused and i appologize if this doesnt make any sence is there anybody that can help me, please. thanx ya'll.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
problems w/ my hubs
- Thread starter grey88
- Start date
87BrnRsd
1/2 ton status
There should be one large metal ring that goes around the inside front of the hub. Make sure to take that off, as well as the little clip on the end of the axle shaft. Once you do that, take two of the allen screws that you took off the hub to get it off, and screw them back into two opposite holes in the hub. With those threaded in, you can then pull the rest of the hub assembly off. From there, you use the "special tool" (a 4 pronged hub socket) to take off the outer spindle nut. Once that is off, you need a dental pick to remove a keyed locknut. Its kind of hard to explain the setup, but there are two round metal nuts on there. The outer one (one closest to you) is thin and has a lot of small holes in it. It has a key on one side, and the spindle itself is keyed. The other one (behind it) is round and thick, and has a small "nipple" on it. The nipple lines up in one of the holes in the other round metal piece, locking it in place, and the key lines up in the keyed slot of the spindle. This is important to know when you put it back together becasue if you dont get the nipple to line up in one of the holes of the thin metal ring, and then line up the key in the small metal ring with the keyed area on the spindle, the hub will back itself off. Anyways, pull those off with a dental pick, then use the 4 pronged socket to pull the last hub nut off. From there, slide out the outer bearing with a pick, and pull the hub and rotor assembly off. Pretty simple.
-Harrison
-Harrison
ok thats where i'm gettin stuck when i screw the alen head bolts into the hub it comes out like an 1/8th of an inch and then stops like where the snap ring would be, but i did remove that and as far as i can see have removed everything that i need to. there is also a gear drive deal on the axel shaft in the hub and that seems to be what is holding everything up and i have no clue why. i do thank you for all your help i really apreciate it.
thedrip
1/2 ton status
Once you do it once, you can do it all in a couple of minutes. I found two dental picks makes getting the lock washer out a lot easier as well (one on each side). Also spraying everything in a degreaser/cleaner (you'll be repacking bearings anyway, right) allows you to see whats actually in there, helps a lot the first time.
try turning the the hub slightly as you pull out. Also make sure you have taken out the large metal ring that sits just inside the hyb body.
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
gmc4cw said:
From what he's describing I don't think he has found the snap ring that sits in the groove of the hub body. If you spray out the hub body with brake cleaner you will see the large snap ring that sits just inside where you took the outer cap of the locking hub out.
I remember the first time I replaced hubs this just about drove me nuts until I found it.
i did spray brake cleaner in there and i did find that snap ring and pulled it out and it all slid out like it was sposed to i thank you guys for all your help i really really do apreciate it. i just have one more queston when puttin the 4 prong bolt back in do i have to torque them down to any certain specs? thanx again
resurrected_jimmy
1/2 ton status
Yes, the inner one very light and the outer one a little more.... there are actual torque specs but I don't remeber them off hand. And they are important to keep your bearings happy. Use the search feature on this site and you can find them. This question gets asked a lot.
Found 'em for you...... copied from another thread
posted by: thatk30guy
Actually, the sequence that I've read, seen and used goes like this:
1. torque inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. while spinning the bearing hub to seat the bearings.
2. back off the inner nut and retorque to 35 ft. lbs., again, while spinning the bearing hub.
3. back off inner nut 3/8's of a turn.
4. install washer.
5. install outer nut and torque to 150 ft. lbs. while spinning bearing hub.
Thats how my GM service manual calls for the task.
Found 'em for you...... copied from another thread
posted by: thatk30guy
Actually, the sequence that I've read, seen and used goes like this:
1. torque inner nut to 50 ft. lbs. while spinning the bearing hub to seat the bearings.
2. back off the inner nut and retorque to 35 ft. lbs., again, while spinning the bearing hub.
3. back off inner nut 3/8's of a turn.
4. install washer.
5. install outer nut and torque to 150 ft. lbs. while spinning bearing hub.
Thats how my GM service manual calls for the task.
87BrnRsd
1/2 ton status
Yeah...those are the correct specs. I have never even used a torque wrench when doing wheel bearings and have never had a problem. I like to tighten it down first, then back off, then tighten till the rotor spins freely but with a slight amount of snag. Then just tighten the crap out of the outer nut. Its almost impossible to get 150 ft/lbs on the outer nut with that 4 prong socket (it always slips off).resurrected_jimmy said:
But yeah....those torque specs are what gm calls for.
-Harrison
xpndbl3
1/2 ton status
i got 180 foot pounds on that outside lock nut no problem by pushing down with my right arm while pulling up with my left arm on the head of the torque wrench to keep everything lined up better with the socket and torque wrench.
ya i had it to 150 first but my truck actually only calls for 80ft.lbs. i had it to 150 and then it was way to tight so i redid it like one of my buddies said to and now its fine and my book says for a certain kind of manual lockin hub torque it to 160 to like 200 and sum odd ft. lbs. but i do apreciate all ur guy's help.
