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Problems W/ Summit racing??

chevysrule

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I recently ordered some bad parts that are currently costing $700 to fix. Summit is giving no help. They are accusing me of installing the parts wrong. But i assure you i didnt.I guess that I'm out $700, the engine rebuild I had planned, and the 4-wheelers for christmas. What would you guys do?
 
what parts did you order and what exactly is the trouble you're having, i suggest keep calling until u get a nice sales person, i've never had a problem w/ summit.

phill
 
I have ordered from Summit and Jegs and have had no problems yet, been almost 5 years. Actually I have never had a problem with anything I have ever ordered regaurdless of who it was from.

<font color=red>Life is like a mud hole:</font color=red><font color=blue>
When the S#!T gets deep, you have to keep moving and friends can always pull you out</font color=blue>
55 Willy's
 
I bought Crane lifters and Crane roller rockers. The lifters are bleeding off way too much resulting in burt and bent valves. and its hard correctly set valve lash with that going on.
 
sounds like the pushrods are too long

eatin'fords and shittin'dodges down in the sunshine state.
 
the pushrods are stock length. the lifters have the same plunger height and i only got the 1.5 ratio rockers?? Beats me
 
what are summits tech guys saying?

eatin'fords and shittin'dodges down in the sunshine state.
 
They havent gotten back to me yet. The customer service folks are pretty much telling me to go to hell if I installed them myself.
 
Call back and talk to someone in charge and not someone who answers the phone and doesn't know the difference between a ball cap and hub cap.... also I suggest taking the truck to a shop and having them tell you what exactly went wrong. If they can prove it's defective parts and back you up Summit needs to replace them and make good. It shouldn't matter who installed it. If the part is junk it's junk. Not even a pro can work with that....

&lt;&gt;&lt;<a target="_blank" href=http://www.chevycagal.homestead.com/steph.html>Steph's Webpage</a>&gt;&lt;&gt;
Suck Fumes Ford Boy
I keep trying to lose weight, but it always finds me!
 
I have been using Summit for 15 years and have never had anything but 1st class service. Sounds like you have adjustment / geometry problems. Valves bend from hitting things (like pistons) and they burn from getting too hot (incorrect adjustment, lean mixtures, overadvanced timing). Check everything again and if you find a problem with a part, I will bet Summit will stand by it.
 
I have had problems withthem also.. Not big oens, but some and we have being dealing with them since before I was born!(My Dad used to buy chrome rims off of them when they operated out of a garage!)

I would call and talk to a tech and see where you get, even call Crane and tell them the situation! They may be able to help also!

If that fails take the truck to a shop like Steph said and have them diagnos(sp?) the problem, then go back to Summit and Crane with proof!

Mike

<font color=green>"My K5 is purdyur than your sister!"</font color=green>

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Hmmm, sounds very much like operator error.
frown.gif
Is this a stock engine? With stock heads and pistons? If not, then it's possible that the valves and pistons met each other, if you didn't do all the proper prep.

What lifters were you using? Are they the fast bleed down type that minimize how radical the cam "seems" at low RPM? If so, then there's a different process for setting the lash on those. They are much noisier than a stock lifter, so the old "crank 'til the clicking stops, then crank another 1/2 turn" doesn't work for those.

To bend valves, things have to get pretty out of whack. Are you sure the cam was installed straight up? If it was off a tooth of two, then valves could have been open as the piston went to top dead center. Non-stock pistons also require consideration for valve clearance.

There's just too many unkowns here. Tell us more about what you have, what you bought and how you installed it all.

<font color=black>HarryH3 - '75 K5</font color=black>
<a target="_blank" href=http://www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck>www.angelfire.com/super/ThunderTruck</a>
It's a great day to be alive...
 
They only problem I have ever had with summit was when I bought the energy suspention FULL kit for my truck and it was for a pickup. Summit said there was no such thing as a full kit for a blazer but shipped the blazer body mount kit at cost to me and they paid overnight shipping. Of coarse my family and me spend alot of money with them.

<font color=red>Let me at it I can break it</font color=red>
 
It sounds like you didnt get the cam degreed in. I have seen that many times. The cam wouldnt make the valves hit the piston unless you bought a monster cam.

86Jimmy 4"&35"MTRs,87 burb 4"&33"MT,69Firebird w/525 hp,and 70GTO live in PHX,AZ<a target="_blank" href=http://www.geocities.com/modifierperformance>My vehicles</a>
 
Is it the stock camshaft? Did you establish a point of wear at the tip of the valve? If its an aftermarket cam, depending on what grind it is, it is sometimes necessary to use a different length pushrod to keep the rocker centered on the valve. Generally,you cannot go by what someone else tells you on this. This can only be determined by using a pushrod length checker, as tolerance stack-up is common among anything mass produced.

"There are 3 kinds of people in this world...Those who can count, and those who can't"
 
Did you have the block decked and the heads surfaced when they were at the machine shop? If so there is your problem. If too much material is removed then your pushrods will be too long and you will have to get adj. or custom length pushrods. If the pushrods are too long the valves may open too far.
 

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