Has any here experienced any problems with the homemeade shackle flip? are there any downsides?any possibility of the hangers breaking?
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Problems with homemade shackle flip
- Thread starter BowtieRed
- Start date
outlaw612
1/2 ton status
Ive been running mine for over a year with no problems.
SCOTTS_4X
1/2 ton status
I've been runnign mine for 3-4 years now with 0 problems, besides the fact that I need a longer shackle.
-Scott
-Scott
how much of an improvement in flex and ride did ya'll see?
TNS10HYBRID
Registered Member
- Joined
- May 4, 2003
- Posts
- 21
- Reaction score
- 0
A lot. It is the easiest and bestest mod you can do by yourself.
SkulzNBonz
1/2 ton status
Been runnin' mine for about a year. Ride is good, as is flex. Axle wrap has been the only downside, but you'll get that from just about any lift.
John
John
Rusty68
1/2 ton status
why the need for the longer shackles? Is it because of the angles they are sitting at after the flip?
SkulzNBonz
1/2 ton status
I used stock shackles. Gives 4" lift. The only reason I can see for longer shackles is more altitude.
John
John
Longer shackles will give you more height, but will also increase the angle on your rear output. Even with stock shackles it appears that the angle on the pinion is at an acceptable level, but with even longer shackles I'm sure that pinion shimming will need to be added.
SkulzNBonz
1/2 ton status
My pinion angle right now is just about perfect for a CV driveshaft (pointing almost directly at the TC output). I had horrible vibes until I lowered my tranfer case. I now have a slight vibe between 35-45 MPH. I can see where a longer shackle would aim the pinion higher, and would definately need to be shimmed.
John
John
i have a lowered tcase and a pinion shim, so i should be ok, no?
as for axle wrap, i'm putting on a 2 link which will be a 4 link shortly thereafter, so i'm not worried about it. i'm doing it to get rid of my 3.5" blocks, so it should still sit about level.
what techniques did ya'll use to cut out the bottom so its a goos square cut, angle grinder? die grinder? i have no access to a plasma cutter, so it's not an option /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
thanks,
red
as for axle wrap, i'm putting on a 2 link which will be a 4 link shortly thereafter, so i'm not worried about it. i'm doing it to get rid of my 3.5" blocks, so it should still sit about level.
what techniques did ya'll use to cut out the bottom so its a goos square cut, angle grinder? die grinder? i have no access to a plasma cutter, so it's not an option /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
thanks,
red
SkulzNBonz
1/2 ton status
I used a torch, cut the hole slightly smaller than necessary, and then opened up and dressed the hole w/ a die grinder and a burr bit. Make sure the corners of the hole have a good radius, so as to not induce stress.
John
John
BorregoK5
1/2 ton status
I first ran a cut through the hanger shackle flip before figuring out my bolt on bracket and its still cut up to this day. Most people go with a shackle flip to soften the ride as well as get rid of the lift blocks which through leverage will exaggerate axle wrap. Getting rid of the blocks does not eliminate wrap up but does offer more resistance to it. The cut through the hanger method can get you up to 4" of lift but usually much less due to spring fatigue which is why people suggest running a longer shackle to help make up the difference. Keep in mind that 2" of additional shackle length will only equal 1" of lift at the axle. Getting a shackle that is too long can also play havoc on your rear end geometry. Once you flip the shackle, its arc of motion when loaded up will cause the back end to sit lower than before with the same amount of weight. So even with a 2" longer shackle on your stock leaf packs (putting you at 4"-5” lift), any weight you add will cause the back end to settle down quickly usually about 1 ½” on a blazer (full of gas, spare tire, trail gear, etc). The cut through the hanger style mod, while achieving the flip, requires quite a bit of material to be removed from the bottom of the hanger to allow a full unrestricted range of motion for the shackle. You’ll find that many people end up plating the top side of the hanger (where the shackle used to slide in) with ¼” steel for support and removing the rest of the bottom in order to achieve this without sacrificing strength. This is not a bad way to go if you have the tools and elbow grease to put into it, and the resulting lift fits your needs. As for driveline geometry, any shackle flip you perform whether home brewed or purchased is going to require pinion correction unless your adding a CV style shaft at the same time. This doesn’t mean you wont need driveline correction but its close enough to the proper geometry on blazers that many don’t. Hope this helps.
thanks, that helped a lot, and with my shim and lower case i think i'll be ok and cut it roughly the smooth it out, then coat it with a fresh coat of rustoleum and i am doing with my axle. and then get a 4 link all at one time when i get about $500,. thanks for the help guys,
red
red
