programming on 97 7.4

[Smokinthehippies]

i'm to the point where i'd like to get a tune done for my DD.
its a 1997 burb 2500 with the 7.4

I need to ask any of the tuning guys here what they recommend. I have no interest in doing it my self at the current juncture (not even sure if that's possible like it is on the tbi's)

anyway, need a recommend on where to get a decent tune from. I don't feel like taking it in and having a custom dyno tune done, actually that's a lie, I would I just don't know where i'd get it done locally or a reputable shop. what Id prefer is just to answer some basic questions and have a boiler plate tune sent to me.

any good shops you know of that can do a 97? any shops to avoid.
does it even really make a difference?

thanks for the advice guys.

 

[eagle mark]

There's not many guys doing 96-97 Vortec PCMs because software like HP Tuners and EFI Live do not cover them! They start with 98-00 Vortec PCMs.

TunerCat OBDII does do them but can't buy that software anymore, it was sold to JET DST and has per vehicle licensing.

No chips to mail either, the PCM must be shipped and bench flashed unless someone nearby can do it in vehicle.

SO that's the history...

I hate to recommend my self, but that is the only one I know doing them!
Plus the CK5 discount makes it worth while!

Is there something specific you need done?

For stock vehicle improvements some things I do are:
1. Remove the PE delay, you actually don't get PE for about a minute or so, the only reason they let it come on is to cool the Cat going up long hills or towing.
2. Remove the Abuse/Torque Management... but I leave in TM for shift points, this is where guys go wrong and smoke trannys...
3. High test tune. Running 91+ Octane is good for these newer motors, power and MPG. There's two tables for spark, Low octane and High Octane. the PCM will add spark till knock and find where it's happy and try to keep MAX high Octane spark. But it can take a couple tanks to relearn if you just change to High Octane fuel. Who want's their motor to be forced to knock all the time? Using high octane fuel and tuneing for it stops the forced knock. Knock sensor and retard still work fine and are untouched!
4. Adjust Stoich/Desired AFR to todays E 10 fuel = fixes fuel trim issues.
5. Adjust PE AFR to todays E10 fuel = proper AFR in PE.
6. If it's an Auto trans, then shift times can be sped up and you actually feel the shift. This stops the long slip = wear and can lower tranny temps.
7. All shift points can be adjusted if you don't like where they are. I have some different calibrations and the ones set for towing are very nice to drive where the none tow options calibrations are like a long big slush keeping engine RPM down...
8. Biggest help is speedometer calibration if yours is off or have changed tire size and gear ratio. Overall this is great for drive-ability.

It's all good, but nothing earth shattering. Overall power is up, drive-ability is way better and if you keep your foot out of the skinny pedal you get some small gains in MPG.

When you read around please don't fall for the "60-100 extra HP and bizillion foot pounds of torque, Milage increase by 50%!" It's all BS...

 

[Smokinthehippies]

There's not many guys doing 96-97 Vortec PCMs because software like HP Tuners and EFI Live do not cover them! They start with 98-00 Vortec PCMs.

TunerCat OBDII does do them but can't buy that software anymore, it was sold to JET DST and has per vehicle licensing.

No chips to mail either, the PCM must be shipped and bench flashed unless someone nearby can do it in vehicle.

SO that's the history...

I hate to recommend my self, but that is the only one I know doing them!
Plus the CK5 discount makes it worth while!

Is there something specific you need done?

For stock vehicle improvements some things I do are:
1. Remove the PE delay, you actually don't get PE for about a minute or so, the only reason they let it come on is to cool the Cat going up long hills or towing.
2. Remove the Abuse/Torque Management... but I leave in TM for shift points, this is where guys go wrong and smoke trannys...
3. High test tune. Running 91+ Octane is good for these newer motors, power and MPG. There's two tables for spark, Low octane and High Octane. the PCM will add spark till knock and find where it's happy and try to keep MAX high Octane spark. But it can take a couple tanks to relearn if you just change to High Octane fuel. Who want's their motor to be forced to knock all the time? Using high octane fuel and tuneing for it stops the forced knock. Knock sensor and retard still work fine and are untouched!
4. Adjust Stoich/Desired AFR to todays E 10 fuel = fixes fuel trim issues.
5. Adjust PE AFR to todays E10 fuel = proper AFR in PE.
6. If it's an Auto trans, then shift times can be sped up and you actually feel the shift. This stops the long slip = wear and can lower tranny temps.
7. All shift points can be adjusted if you don't like where they are. I have some different calibrations and the ones set for towing are very nice to drive where the none tow options calibrations are like a long big slush keeping engine RPM down...
8. Biggest help is speedometer calibration if yours is off or have changed tire size and gear ratio. Overall this is great for drive-ability.

It's all good, but nothing earth shattering. Overall power is up, drive-ability is way better and if you keep your foot out of the skinny pedal you get some small gains in MPG.

When you read around please don't fall for the "60-100 extra HP and bizillion foot pounds of torque, Milage increase by 50%!" It's all BS...

don't worry about promoting yourself. that's exactly why I posted in here I just couldn't remember who did it.

1. what is PE delay? and do I want it on or off?
2. good for me.
3. 91 is fine. that was one of the adjustments I wanted made.
4. sounds good.
5. ok
6. it is an auto and I definitely want to boost the line pressures or speed it up or whatever you do. i'm fine feeling a bump to keep the trans happy.
7. i'd have to go on your recommendation for that one. its mostly a daily driver but I want to be able to tow a 10k load if I need, so I guess middle of the road there.
8. i'll do that too since the tires went up to a 285/75-16 (not huge difference but if we're in there might as well correct it.

don't worry about expectations. although when I put a tuner on my cummins it sure jumped it up, you mean you cant do that to this engine!?!?

just kidding. I know exactly what to expect, even a modest gain with just increased driveability will do it for me.

what all would I need to do to make this happen.
and if you want pm me a price

 

[eagle mark]

Yeah there's a lot of room even in hand held diesel programmers! Just not so much left on the table with gas engines.

PE = Power Enrichment, like a power valve in a carb. What it does is change AFR from Stoich or what people are used to hearing 14.7 to 1 down to 12.5-8 to one for power. Think skinny pedal on the floor! Yes you want it on if you want to go fast when floored. If not floored it will not come on and not hurt MPG.

Your tire size is good, but if you can find manufacturer specs and get revolutions per mile it is more accurate. With the software, when I make this change it fixes everything! You would not believe how many tranny tables etc... there are that use MPH, it's about 4000 changes.

The trans shift point time delay removed does not make it bump or anything unhappy... just a nice firm feel. Way better for a gearhead type car guy. GM makes this a general public type.. well yuk!

Some calibrations like HD tow option are already good gear change MPH etc... it's the light duty calibrations that are just one big slow slush from 0 to 70. So we will look at yours and set you up.

I always take into account trucks can be used to tow, setting it up for daily driver and tow is easy. Really no need for tricks and such, it's all in the TPS settings!

Overall the easy way to explain what can be done is your truck drives like a Caddilac where driver does not want to feel anything? Now it drives like a Camaro or sports car and you know feel what is going on. Like sometimes you want to accererate and nothing happens? You push the skinny pedal more and more and still nothing till... WHAM! It finally kicks down and gives way more then what you wanted.

Everyone smiles when done!

I see your in CA, before you ask... none of this will effect emissions testing. If you pass now? You'll pass when done.

So are there any mechanical issues? No codes? All is well? O2 sensors do get old, if you replace spend the extra couple bucks for AC/Delco.

 

[Smokinthehippies]

Yeah there's a lot of room even in hand held diesel programmers! Just not so much left on the table with gas engines.

PE = Power Enrichment, like a power valve in a carb. What it does is change AFR from Stoich or what people are used to hearing 14.7 to 1 down to 12.5-8 to one for power. Think skinny pedal on the floor! Yes you want it on if you want to go fast when floored. If not floored it will not come on and not hurt MPG.

Your tire size is good, but if you can find manufacturer specs and get revolutions per mile it is more accurate. With the software, when I make this change it fixes everything! You would not believe how many tranny tables etc... there are that use MPH, it's about 4000 changes.

The trans shift point time delay removed does not make it bump or anything unhappy... just a nice firm feel. Way better for a gearhead type car guy. GM makes this a general public type.. well yuk!

Some calibrations like HD tow option are already good gear change MPH etc... it's the light duty calibrations that are just one big slow slush from 0 to 70. So we will look at yours and set you up.

I always take into account trucks can be used to tow, setting it up for daily driver and tow is easy. Really no need for tricks and such, it's all in the TPS settings!

Overall the easy way to explain what can be done is your truck drives like a Caddilac where driver does not want to feel anything? Now it drives like a Camaro or sports car and you know feel what is going on. Like sometimes you want to accererate and nothing happens? You push the skinny pedal more and more and still nothing till... WHAM! It finally kicks down and gives way more then what you wanted.

Everyone smiles when done!

I see your in CA, before you ask... none of this will effect emissions testing. If you pass now? You'll pass when done.

So are there any mechanical issues? No codes? All is well? O2 sensors do get old, if you replace spend the extra couple bucks for AC/Delco.

ok PE = good. lol got it.
tires = 634 revs per mile.

If I want a slushy I go to sonic, I want crisp firm noticeable shifts.
smog is good
just had all new delco o2 sensors put in a week ago as well as cap and rotor. everything is running tip top.
think that's everything to be answered.