Project "Black Smoke"

[snowbound98]

First I would like to say hi to everyone. I started this thread on another site but was told that if I own a K5 I better check out CK5 so here I am. I like what I've seen this far and have gotten a lot of great ideas and info off this site.
Any way on with my project. I started out looking for a plow truck that had a straight axle, short wheelbase, and wanted a diesel. Long story short, I found an '89 GMC Jimmy. The listing said new floors, rockers, quarters, and a bunch of parts to go with it. Down side was locked up engine. The second downside was it has 350/700r4/241. But I didn't care. I'm going 6.5 turbo diesel/4L80E/205 twin stick. That's how I came up with "Black Smoke". Hers some pics when I got her home.

Now I know what your thinking. This guy is nuts. He said he bought a Jimmy not a Blazer. Apparently his donor was a Blazer cuz he gave me extra steering column without the play, solid power doors, intake, driveshafts, trans crossmember, glove box and a bunch of other stuff he saved from the donor. That's the reason for the grille and windshield sticker. Just to give everyone a time frame I bought this 12/17/12. So I haven't had this thing that long. More pictures coming of the tear down.

 

[snowbound98]

Engine had to come out and so did all the other drivetrain components.

 

[snowbound98]

Got to looking at the power doors and the panels and carpet, well pretty much everything had to go. I called up LMC and ordered everything I wanted for doors. Panels, handle bezels, outside handles, carpets, pull straps, door pockets, trim pieces, and a bunch of hardware. Here's the door before new stuff.

Here's all the new stuff

Stripped down the doors and installed all my new pretty parts. What a pain the butt this was. The carpet wasn't per drilled and neither was the door panel. Had to cut out window switches and bezel, drill door pockets and carpets. But sure looks a lot better all done.

Went to change the door conduit and found some frayed wires that are in need of some repair. Easy fix.

Still need to paint arm rest and pull strap but at least it's all on there.

 

[snowbound98]

Ok I spent a little time checking things out on the interior. It had marine carpet in it which wasn't half bad but not up to my liking. Besides I gotta check out these newer floor pans and everything. I don't know what's up with the seat frames either. Might have to ditch them as we'll. I want a better seat in there and also more cosmetically pleasing. But that's a little while down the road as I plan on putting some torque thru this thing so I need to focus more on drivetrain than anything but couldn't help myself and needed to lighten it up a bit for what's coming.

That's a lot of surface rust but still pretty solid. You can see how this thing was patched up.

I'm gonna fix the welds on the rockers and quarter panel. Also I'm not real enthused with the floor pans so those are coming out also. I'll get replacement panels rather than sheet metal patches.

 

[snowbound98]

Ok back to the drivetrain and getting this thing up for the task of handling more torque. I have a 6.5 turbo diesel out of a 92 C3500. I bought this engine for that truck and ran it for about 30k miles. The damn keyway on the crankshaft decided to turn sideways and take a chunk out of my crank. Other than that this thing ran awesome. Also bought a 4L80E for that 92 so those are what I plan on using in this build. Here's pics of the engine tucked away patiently waiting for the right project truck. I sat on this engine and trans for 4 years waiting to put it in something.

Like I said the trans is a 2wd but that's good cuz the np205 off a th400 bolts right up to the back of this trans but I needed to cut down the output shaft on trans. Unfortunately my shaft isn't a full spline so I need to get the correct output shaft and I will have the shop install it and give me a full rebuild upgrading the internals.

I got my new forged steel crank.

Fully rebuilt 205. New bearings seals and got a slip yoke eliminator kit. Modified the shift rails and got a twin stick shifter.

 

[snowbound98]

So we all know that these 10 bolt axles have got to go. No way they'll stand up to the abuse I plan on putting on this rig. Also found some bad body mounts that I'll address and I want to beef up the frame. This thing had a steering box reinforcement plate on it and the frame is trashed behind it. That needs to be addressed also. So hers what I did to her!

Fully boxing the frame. Made up my templates out of cardboard and transferred to a 4x4 sheet of 12 gauge sheet metal. Cut everything out with a plasma cutter and will do final figment with a grinder.

I know! I know! Don't get ahead of me. You can't box in that frame with it being that rusty! Let me get it stripped and then I'll take care of that. Pulling that frame out was a pain in the a$$. I did it by myself with bumper jack, jacks, and jack stands. I need a lift! I'll work on that b4 I put it back on.

 

[snowbound98]

I took the frame to get sandblasted. I used a friends car dolly and when I got there the guy told me that he just wanted the bare frame. He hangs it I guess to blast it. But I had springs and axles under it. So I dragged it back home to finish tear down. On a side note: anyone ever tow with a car dolly? How bout back up with one? Holy crap! That really sucks! That thing was going every which way except for where I wanted it. Anyway, I came up with the perfect plan. I removed the rear spring hanger rivets and bolted them back up with 4, 3/8" bolts and used a hitch pin in place of the rear spring front eye bolts. Then I removed complete front axle and springs and made up a tow bar out of some old steel I had and bolted that to the front frame with 4, 1/2" bolts. I stood and bounced on this thing and it was pretty solid. So when I got back to the sandblaster I just removed 8 bolts and 2 pins and there's your bare frame. Even he got a laugh at my expense. But I gotta tell ya, CPC Powdercoating is 3 blocks away from me on all back streets so its not like I dragged this down the hiway with no lights or anything.

So with that at the sandblaster I needed some axles to go under it when it comes back. Can't think of anything other than Dana60 and corporate 14 bolt full floater.

 

[snowbound98]

So I picked up a 91 K30 dump truck with a 350/400/205 Dana60 and 14 bolt. I still have 14 bolt from my 92 SRW. Took drivetrain out of rusty dump truck and scrapped it. Rebuilt the axles and got crossover steering and rear disk brake brackets. Picked up a pan hard bar, diff covers, and soon I will get a hydro assist steering ram.

 

[snowbound98]

Took awhile but finally got the frame back. Had to cut round and pill shaped slugs to fill all the holes in frame. That's a long tedious process but if the hole is bigger than 1/2" then I wanted a filler. Here's the progress.

Here's the bad spot on the frame where the steering box bolts up. That's gotta be repaired. Also I used my welding magnets to hold the filler plugs in for tacking them in.

 

[snowbound98]

Here's some shots of the holes getting filled.

Also, I removed the engine crossmember and installed an ORD big block engine crossmember. All the other crossmembers will be made out of 2x3 tubing.

Got the DIY4X rear shackle flip, 6" shackle hangers, greasable 9/16" bolts for all spring eyes and shackles, EZ inch, bushings, competition engine mounts, a-bomb front bumper center, and Kert's front shackle hangers. Got ORD engine crossmember and extended brake lines.

 

[snowbound98]

So that is about where I am on the frame. Still have some grinding and welding left to do on it. Decided to go with 52" springs up front and 56" in the back. Waiting for that stuff to come in. Did some more work on the tub and found some more rust. I'll get into that 2mrw and post the pics that I have. Any info or comments are welcome and appreciated.

 

[snowbound98]

Oh ya forgot to show you guys my beefy diff covers and rear pinion guard. Also thinking about adding a backbone to the rear diff. I'll mount some anti wrap bar on that. Front Dana 60 cover.

Here's rear diff cover and pinion guard.

 

[snowbound98]

As far as brakes, all new stainless brake lines, new adjustable pro portioning valve, new master cylinder and rebuilt hydraulic brake booster. Didn't do a write up on the brake booster. Didn't even think to. I got all new calipers, pads and rotors. I have a power steering pump for the hydraulic booster which I removed the spring and valve and drilled it out and set it up for the coming hydro assist steering.

 

[utherjorge]

I love you

in a non-offensive way, of course

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

I love you

in a non-offensive way, of course

Man-Card..... Hand it over.

 

[utherjorge]

I have four daughters. Until my K gets on the road, I'm not sure I have one at this point

I have a Grand Caravan R/T, though...that counts, right? Right? Guys? Where are you all going.....

 

[TheBeast_88K5]

Redeemed....

That's funny, right there.

 

[snowbound98]

I'll take that as a compliment. Not really the response I thought I'd get but I guess it's a good thing. I set a ridiculous crazy done date but some things have been outta my control. Took 2 weeks for the frame to come back my a-bomb bumper center is still weeks out. Then I'm sending frame back in to get powder coated. Which I don't know how long that will take. I'm just scared that I'm gonna forget something that has to be welded to the frame. I want rock lights and reverse lights. Should I weld a bracket for them on the frame? What does everyone have for mounting lights? Am I going to have to put this tub back on to mock up brackets for lights? What about shock mounts? Should I keep the factory front dual shock mounts or go to a hoop or go F250 mounts. My axle will be mounted forward so will that not work with the stock mounts? I'll have more of an idea when my springs get here I guess. How bout the rear? Should I get that inboard shock mounting bracket from DiY4X? Any help or input is appreciated. Thanks guys!

 

[snowbound98]

Here's some work I did on the tub. I gutted the interior, removed the dash, the heater box and all the vent piping. Removed the complete wiring harness, steering column and pedal assembly.

Got a lot of feedback about checking for rust in the cowl area where the firewall comes up to the cowl in that seam. I checked mine and have no issues there at all.

But while I was in the cowl area I did find some more cancer under the passenger side windshield. The rust continued down that side to the bottom of cowl in front of the passenger door at the bottom. Drivers side looks great there though. So looks like I have to remove the metal dash skeleton to get in to that rust.

Drivers side bottom is solid thank god!

 

[stan1688]

. I want rock lights and reverse lights. Should I weld a bracket for them on the frame? What does everyone have for mounting lights? Am I going to have to put this tub back on to mock up brackets for lights? What about shock mounts? Should I keep the factory front dual shock mounts or go to a hoop or go F250 mounts. My axle will be mounted forward so will that not work with the stock mounts? I'll have more of an idea when my springs get here I guess. How bout the rear? Should I get that inboard shock mounting bracket from DiY4X? Any help or input is appreciated. Thanks guys!

I used small leds for rock lights and mounted them directly to the body.

If you're running 52s/56s, I would use ford towers or custom shock hoops up front and DIYs inboarding kit in the back. I'm running 52s with ford stamped towers up front and 56s out back with the inboarding kit and it works well.