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Project Hammer

hammermachine

1/2 ton status
 Premium
Joined
Aug 23, 2005
Posts
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Location
The East Coast Texas
My new project, the new Hammer project aka ball buster. It started with a 1989 Chevy K5 bought from Odin here on CK5. It came totally stock, in great shape with replacement sheet metal included with the deal. The known problems were a smoky 350 with 193,000 miles on it, and a stuck tailgate window. The known rust issues for me were voided by the new fender well and rocker panels that went with the truck. After buying the truck and driving to a friend’s house (he’s a mechanic and I hired him to do the engine work, which is beyond me). Everything seemed to be going good. This was January.

My friend worked on the engine on his off day and soon corrected/repaired the valves, gaskets, wiring spark pugs, rotor and other components. While Bob worked on the engine I ordered a lift kit from Topgunzcustom. I had decided after all the research on CK5 to get a 4 inch lift that would fit my 35’s from the other Blazer and still be a DD and weekend off roader. From Topgunz I chose the Rough Country all spring lift kit. Mostly because of the price, but from what they offered it seemed like the most complete kit. After a week I received half of the lift kit. It turned out that UPS lost the two rear springs. Topgunz quickly arranged for me to receive a replacement pair. Of course right after that the missing pair showed up, one with a broken clip. In the end Nobody Wanted them back too costly to ship back so now I owned a kit and a half.

Two weeks ago Bob and I started the teardown of the front of the K5, out with old springs in with the new. We worked trying to follow probably the worst set of instructions ever printed. Rough Country as it turns out has less than three pages of instructions with the kit, and what they have suck. It doesn’t tell you much, or just what OEM parts you need. The kit itself looks good, but does not include all the hardware you need. Instead you have to guess what parts you have to salvage from the old parts. Example the metal sleeves for the shocks. We had to burn them out of the old shocks just to use with the new ones. I was really disappointed at the lack of instructions in the instructions, RC really leaves you hanging. For me a novice installing this kit would have been nearly impossible. For an experienced mechanic like my friend, it caused tons of delays, not cool.

The other problem that delayed this project was seized twenty year old bolts. On each spring we ran into at least one bolt that refused to come loose from the metal sleeves on each spring. This is after soaking each bolt for several days. Several cost us a lot of time and busted knuckles. So at this point we have more than half the job done. If it was spring we would have more daylight to work by and would be finished, but the cold and darkness has slowed us down.

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Just get up earlier for the daylight.:haha: Is that a Ranger on boggers to the side?
 
Ford

Yeah that's bob's project, a cut down Ranger body on a Bronco frame... a Ronco. He built it for mud racing, not complete yet.
 
Of all the lifts I've done I've never really used the instructions...might scan through it quick but on a leaf sprung rig it's pretty straight forward. As for hardware like leaf spring bolts I've never had a kit come with them and I usually torch the old ones off to save time and upgrade to grade 8 anyway. If you want a real challenge try and IFS rig thise can be complicated:D
 
More work

I had the day off so I planned to switch the 35's off the 85 blazer and put them on the 89. I really was not looking forward to eight tire changes with nothing but regular tools. I really needed a air compressor and impact wrench. Anyway the first thing to go was the old school running boards. There was noway I would want them on the new and improved Blazer. They came off pretty easy, and of course they were hiding ...RUST! I knew the rockers were toast but they are even worst than I thought. The pics are before, during and after the tire switch.

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Truck

Yeah it really looks great, I still have to get the ball joints done and then I'll work on the rust issues.

Hey you got a new rig? Where's the pics?
 
Rust

Today I handled the first issue that I have learned to fix... rust! When I first took the truck out for a test drive I noticed that the driver's seat was very wobbley, like broken. At the time I was in a rush to buy it so I didn't care, I figured I could just switch it with a seat out of the 85. But once I started to install the lift you could see that the chair was okay, it was the floor that was toast. One of the legs of the chair was poking through the cab floor. RUST!
So Friday I removed the chair, and rolled back the carpet, the damage was bad but not fatal. I ran down to Lowes and bought two pieces of 16 gage steel sheet metal. I new the LMC replacement part would have been more suitable, but I really could not afford $95 plus freight. The other issue is that I need to take the truck to inpection Monday, so I couldn't wait for a part from LMC (even if I had the cash).
I decide to patch over the damage instead of cutting it out completely. I think the truck is stronger with the remaining steel than without it. I did cut out the worst parts and hit every part with Rustoleum's Rust reformer. Since the original area will be entombed between the steel it really need a coat of reformer before I hid it from sight. The welding isn't that bad, I think I'm getting better at it. I'll have to see when I do the underside Sunday. I've never welded upside down. That should be ...FUN?

So once I finish welding all the replacement steel, I'll drop some bolt holes into it and the chair should be back in place stronger than before.


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Current thoughts

I'm planning out my next moves, I know how much I'm getting back from taxes, and I know what I need done.
-ball joint replacement
-front drive shaft fixed
-manual hub install
-rear locker selection and install.

Of course those items could cost me more than I'm getting back. I'm also thinking about upgrading to 1 tons, there's a great deal here for $700. That would replace the ball joint repair and cost about the same. I don't know what else would be the benifit of upgrading to 1 tons.

Any advice or thoughts?
 
Upgrade!

So Sunday was another scheduled build day for me. My friend offered his help and the plan was to install a lockright in the rear 10 bolt and switch out the auto hubs for a pair od Superwinch manuals. That was the plan. (No plan survives first contact with the enemy)

Unlike Saturday which was suppose to be raining but instead it was sunny. Sunday started out with a steady drizzle and turned into a downpour.

The rear pumbkin was removed as we started the locker install. We weren't involved more than a few minutes when we discovered that my new Blazer already had something in the diff. A limited slip was just sitting there looking at us. One of the previous owners had already installed it. Of course this is of little use to me off road, but it was unplanned for. I would need a new carrier and pinion. Bob and I sat around and talked about it. I then decided to use the lockright in the front instead of the rear.

I also decided it was getting too bad and too late to start tearing down the front axle. Instead we worked on the hubs, out with the old stock auto hubs and in with the new sexy Superwinch. Thirty minutes later we were done and I had a nice upgrade.

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Locked and Loaded!

Short note. Saturday afternoon we decided to try to install the lockright in the front, since I did not buy a new rear carrier. We were alittle nervous about trying the front, figuring that no one had taken it apart since it was originally built. To our suprise, it al came apart and together without out any problems, or issues. The lockright was short one spring, and Fracking Bob found the "extra" spring he had from the lockright he installed in my last Blazer.... ONE YEAR AGO! Come on talk about LUCK! He found it ten minutes after realizing that the new one was shipped short. The same part!!!! WOW!

So now my Blazer is locked and just about ready for the trails. I need to get front and rear tow points. But hopefully I'll be on the trails this weekend!

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Bob's the freakin man, Don't forget, if you upgrade to the 1 tons you'll need some new wheels. Good progress so far! :waytogo:
 
Strange

I installed the tire carrier from a previous project I had. It's a nice item, welded by a guy on ebay for a jeep. It's not wide as the K5, but I like it. The one thing that I did notice is that the bolts keep working loose. Just enough to create a bounce of the entire bumper and carrier. I've hand tighten it but it works itself loose everytime. I'm using grade 8 bolts with spacer washers and locking nuts. I was thinking about swaping out the last washer for a locking washer and getting my friend's torque wrench to tighten it all down.

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You better do something 'cause that could do some damage if it broke loose. Mine broke at the spindle and the carrier and all went bouncing across a heavy traffic road. I got lucky though.

You might try using a piece of flat stock across the top of the frame and bolted to or bent over and welded to the carrier brackets to keep them from tipping back so far.
 
Carrier

You better do something 'cause that could do some damage if it broke loose. Mine broke at the spindle and the carrier and all went bouncing across a heavy traffic road. I got lucky though.

You might try using a piece of flat stock across the top of the frame and bolted to or bent over and welded to the carrier brackets to keep them from tipping back so far.

I'll check that out as a option. I think it's the washers (plain flats). I tightened everything during lunch, after work drove 22 miles and the bolts worked themselves loose again. I'm going replace the washers Weds.
 
New Bumper

I decided after struggling with the tire carrier bumper to ****can it completely. I got it tighter and more upright, but I just didn't feel comfortable driving around with it. Since I don't have 1K to invest in a bumper& carrier I decided to build one. So after a week think\planning I made a stop at Lowe's and bought $60 worth of steel, (I could have gotten square tube online but I wanted it now not later).

I started with angle iron about a 6 ft length, notched it and placed the two arms (brackets) in the notches and welded them in place. Note no matter how many times I measure and straighten stuff still comes out slightly off.


Once welded to the angle iron I started to box the outer most part of the bumper. That was easy, even though I have some of the ungliest welds known to man.

I added some gussets to the brackets and mounted the still hot piece of steel to the K5 to see how it looked.

I think it'll look pretty cool once I clean it up, paint it and mount the tow hooks on it.

I had to Mcgiver my welder, it's a Firepower brand mig I've had for two years, never had any major issues with it. BUT the adjustable tension screw and nut hook into a PLASTIC PART that holds the wheel that puts pressure to the drive wheel. WHY would somebody make this part out of PLASTIC.... it's under tension\pressure...WTF! So I had to fix it (for now) until I get another welder or a permant fix.




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New work

While inspecting my truck Sunday (instead of wheelin) I removed the worn chrome panel over the carpet edge... and to my surprise (not really since the driver's side was the same way) I found tons of salt... years of NE winter salt. Also water trapped under the plate.... great mixture for RUST!

To my surprise the interior was not rusty, just one screw hole was rusted through. So I might have caught it in time. I do have to cut and patch the rocker panel, the bottom portion is shot. You gotta love the Northeast...

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As far as mounting the spare goes stop using washers and regular nuts and get open acorn lugs. They fit into the wheel lug holes and make me contact.
 
Weekend work!

This weekend I tackled the disintegrating body bushings on the truck. Two hours Sat PB blasting the bolts, and loosing them or just removing them. That was the hardest part of the job. Considering I have never done a body lift before, or taken apart at body from a frame.
First you need a plan, the right tools ( one stubborn bolt broke two 3/8 rackets), and be willing to know your limitations. I'm not a mechanic and do not have a lot experience doing all levels of repairs. For example, the first two bolts are reversed compared to the rest of the body bolts. The bolts themselves are hidden up in the body with the radiator. I could not get them out to replace the rubber bushings, so I just replaced the lowers, and the damaged/missing factory end caps. Since I was only changing out the first six bushings on the truck I did not loosen the four rear ones. The last two are hidden under the tailpan and I was not going to take the tailgate apart (my last K5 I did take it apart and I never was able to get it back together)

Know your limitations.

I was amazed at the condition of some of the bushings, most just fell apart as I disassembled the bushings. Some of the bolts were so worn in the middle that I chose to replace the four middle ones with grade 8 stainless ones. So I patched it all back together and will take it to work this week. I will also crawl back underneath to see if everything is as it should be. In the end I must have spent about $200. Energy Suspensions and a new Craftsman 1/2 racket set. I know that I would have paid a lot more having a real mechanic do it.


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