CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Project Polar Bear: '89 V2500 Suburban

Ordered most major components today, except transmission, exhausted.... :pimp: I will share my build list when I get it cleaned up.

Somewhere along the research you recommended the Raylar plug wires. I was a bit shocked to see the $340 price (don't know what stock wires cost), but you have provided so much good stuff I just need to shut up and order them.

I am going with the CU774 - I apologize if I missed it but what radiator hoses are you using in the Burb?
 
Ordered most major components today, except transmission, exhausted.... :pimp: I will share my build list when I get it cleaned up.

Somewhere along the research you recommended the Raylar plug wires. I was a bit shocked to see the $340 price (don't know what stock wires cost), but you have provided so much good stuff I just need to shut up and order them.

I am going with the CU774 - I apologize if I missed it but what radiator hoses are you using in the Burb?
Try these they worked for me and only about $125
Accel 9065C - ACCEL Extreme 9000 Ceramic Spark Plug Wire Sets
 
It looks like it has been about a 100 years since I’ve updated anything on the ole Polar Bear Suburban so today is as good as any for an update as there are a few things worthy of posting.

For starters, the ole bear has had a pretty nasty driveline vibration for many years that I whittled at for what seemed like forever. The vibration was a high frequency vibration that pointed to driveline. Back during the Rona lockdown in 2020 I had plenty of time to play with it. After doing a lot of measurements I found the NP241 output shaft had a ton of runout, which made sense as it was wiping the tailshaft bushing and rear seal about every year so ripped it down and did a Slip Yoke Eliminator. The driveline angles had to be adjusted again once the new longer shaft was made as well.
50662587783_7c7df73ca4_c.jpg


50671676518_f4b7fb076e_c.jpg


While that made a noticeable change in the vibration it still wasn’t enough to make me happy but life and other projects got in front of it (mainly the K10 breaking in half and needing a major frame job) where I finally got around to getting back on it this summer. Along with a vibration, the bear has had a terrible feeling clutch pedal pretty much since day one when I got it but back then with the TBI 350, the issue was just a flat pressure plate then I replaced that with a used leftover Centerforce from the K10 when I did the NV4500 swap around 2012 using an Advanced Adapters bellhousing. Then in 2015 when the bear got its 8.1 swap I started with fresh hydraulics and a new Centerforce clutch and had the flywheel turned at our local driveline shop. After that swap was complete the bear had a ton of new power but the less than sterling clutch woes continued although they issue felt different.

I dealt with the poor clutch issue for years where it just felt like the release bearing wasn’t pushing the pressure plate far enough. It launched with a lot of chatter and grabbing reverse was near impossible without turning the engine off. Given how inconsistent Advanced Adapters quality is, I suspected the clutch fork pivot ball was in the wrong location, wrong ball or whatever so I decided to pull the AA bell and use a factory GM bell from a 1996+ with internal slave/release bearing, which also required a new clutch and PP. Being on a budget I chose to go with a run of the mill LUK clutch, which worked okay but wasn’t nearly a good performer as the Centerforce. Those changes did make a slight difference but still not enough to make the pedal feel nearly as good as the K10.

Fast forward to this past June, I decided to get a new Centerforce clutch kit for a 1996+ 454 but this time I decided to get a fresh flywheel since that is about the only thing I haven’t changed throughout all of the clutch issues that came to be after the 8.1 swap. As I pulled the old flywheel out and laid it next to the new flywheel it was a complete “AH, HA!” moment when I saw what the driveline shop did 7 years ago. Those clowns completely machined off the lip where the pressure plate rides. The amount of metal they took off was thicker than a quarter and certainly would make a difference in the dept of the release bearing push. The flywheel balancing holes are also on that same outer plane where they wiped those down too!

Long story short, the new flywheel fixed the clutch engagement issue AND the vibration issue that’s been driving me crazy for all these years…….and the Centerforce clutch allows the NV4500 to shift as close to a sports car as one could get. I totally didn't expect this flywheel to fix the vibration as the vibration felt more speed related than RPM related but then again I don't drive these 8.1s at 2500+ RPM at a constant pace in any other gear than 5th. So, for you 8.1L guys with manual transmissions be careful if you ever have your flywheel turned. Probably better off just replacing the flywheel rather than having it turned. Shame on me for not noticing the day I picked up the flywheel from the driveline shop back then.
52321834777_1baecf7752_c.jpg


52320342151_b2fb8208b8_c.jpg


52320651923_b61c6faa61_c.jpg


52322659231_fb2988b4b8_c.jpg


Good ole Centerforce on left and LUK on right
52323078225_43af1d6286_c.jpg


52323078400_52f6b7be07_c.jpg


So, with that success I fell back in love with the ole bear and decided it needed more love so it inherited a hand me down old school Hickey Sidewinder winch that came off my K10 a few years ago, which was a hand me down from my dad's buddy that bought this winch brand new as a dealer installed option on his 1978 K20 way back in the day. It was quite the time consuming blacksmithing project reworking the brackets and skid plate designed for a 73-80 to fit an 81+ with much different frame horns and bumper shapes. Funny, these old winches used tiny 7/16 cable that was only about 2 feet long This time it got treated to 85 ft of 3/8 synthetic rope. I really didn't think a full 100 ft would fit on the spool. I'm still deciding on a hook though......thinking of a Warn Epic Sidewinder, a Factor55 dealeo like the one on the K10 or stay with nothing at all as it is now.

When the Sidewinder was on the K10
2801585157_d5451e6d2b_c.jpg


I restored an old period correct Warn bumper with a Warn 12k to replace the Sidewinder
47741020182_0896033e0d_z.jpg


Now it lives on the Polar Bear
52319357227_abb8a27ddf_c.jpg


52320467293_4dce82c1ee_c.jpg


I made some snazzy bump stops so the plate wouldn’t get pushed into the bumper driving on the highway.
52320582939_07ce5c3184_c.jpg


52319358252_302cb4b977_c.jpg


Winch neutral pull rod
52320584434_c6510c6348_c.jpg


100% Jeff Bezos Chinesium winch rope
52320774254_cbb2c2407a_c.jpg


.....continued
 
Last edited:
When I pulled it out from under the bench where its been hibernating for the past few years
52320349496_64a48d66a5_c.jpg


It wasn’t pretty inside but wasn’t bad either. As far as I know, this lid has never been off since it was new. While filthy, it didn’t show an ounce of wear on anything.
52320792720_638502f38e_c.jpg


It came apart and went back together so easy it was silly
52320349446_f890640039_c.jpg


52320349786_92950f6077_c.jpg


Blasted and resprayed the skid pieces
52320773384_55f47a2b6b_c.jpg


This was the challenge….the frame horn difference between the 73-80 and 81+ were just different enough to turn a simple bolt on project into a blacksmithing project
52320350016_a50cbf9665_c.jpg


I also really wanted to use the Engineered Vintage shackle brackets but the Sidewinder crossmember bolt was right smack dab in the way so I used factory K30 hooks instead. No biggie, I'll use the EV shackle brackets on my K5 project later
52320793330_da66e00a13_c.jpg


With the winch all wrapped up it was time to deal with the steering wandering. This Dana 44 came out of my K10 about 10 years ago and the tie rod assembly has never been replaced since my 27 years of owning the K10. It was time for a nice HD ORD tie rod assembly. I modified their steering damper bracket with x3 1 1/8 saddle clamps and tossed their tiny ¼” u-bolts in the trash that get totally distorted when tightened down
52320156556_4d7b0a2b7a_c.jpg



Next up is it goes in for an alignment next week then I found today that its ready for a new fuel pump. Its been hard starting lately and felt a little low on power only to discover the fuel pressure is only 35 psi! I usually set these 8.1s about 68 psi. And of course, the fuel tank is full. It never ends:surepal:
 
Great update! Though I’m most happy for the fact of the mystery of the clutch getting solved. I thought you might blow the sucker up if the flywheel and fresh clutch didn’t fix it.
 
I have been in love with Polar Bear since you first got it. It's everything I wanted my burb to be.
Pure awesomeness!
 
I did a clutch in a semi once that kept having slipping issues afterwards and we finally solved it with a brand new CAT flywheel. I can't remember if there was anything wrong with the old one or just the same thing you had where someone had machined it wrong. We didn't have a shop with a flywheel grinder in our area and just had them cut by the big mining machine shop next door on their lathes. I never did care for the finish you got doing a flywheel on a lathe.
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom