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Proper front suspension set up

sandypants

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spangdahlem AFB Germany
ok so i admit this part or building is NEW to me, so just looking for some advice. i am looking at ordering my front shaft from tom woods. now as for my truck suspension set up i have 52 kit up front with 52 inch long, 2 in rise lift springs along with ez ride 1 in block. axle is 37 inches from the front of the transfer case , 6 inch shackles, and all this put my caster at -1 vs the stock 6 degree i think it is.:rolleyes:


ok now to the meat and potatoes..:D. they told me having shackles towards the transfer case makes a lot of drive shaft movement in and out. i don't want to hurt my shaft with over extending and bottoming out... so is it really a big factor, as i play in mud, trails and hill climbs? not reallly into going over boulders, but one might pop up here or there. or should i look at mounting the springs the other way and make the shackles up front? just wondering what you all do and how it works for you guys... you know just would like to do it right the first time.. thanx sandypants...
 
Best way is to get measurements with the axle compressed and dropped out as well as at ride height. They make long travel slip shafts to work with rear shackle leaf suspensions. Have you seen some of the suspension flex rigs are getting these days? Not just talking leaf suspensions here.

Changing your leafs to a front shackle design would bring on more and different problems.
 
x2 on this statement. there is a reason why they make shackle reversals for jeeps

Ah yes good point, so then after i get my rear drive shaft i guess then i need to drive it to see it loaded up and unloaded then... so they make long slip front shafts? i guess i can always adjust bump stops and limp straps but i dont really care for the limit straps...
 
Take your driveshaft, cut all but about two inches from either side, and make a square shaft with your ends. As long as it never sees highway speeds it should be fine.
 
Depending on the weather where he lives, he may need 4x4 at highway speeds. I use it in the snowy winter months up here in NE.
 
How did you end up with -1 degree caster?
 
well with the b52 kit like i said, 52 inch springs, and moving the axle forward for good aproach angles..


Got any pictures of your set up? Move the shackle eye hanger forward in the frame? What length of shackles?

Where you taking the caster measurement at?
 
Do you have to relocate the shackle hanger position with the b52 kit?


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- Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
So if I ran your B52 kit and the upper shackle hanger, what shackles would you recommend?

I always recommend a 6".

6" is about as short as you can go and keep the spring eye off the frame with the 52's.

Somewhere along the way, somebody suggested the 7.25" was the optimum length. Ever since, we've been requested for that length. Eventually it became simpler to put them on the website as an option to the kit.

Some that use that length are happy with the selection while others have found that the longer shackles have some drawbacks. One of which is a caster angle out of whack along with the pinion angle. The longer shackles can induce some other problems as well. Increased side to side movement and torque on the frame when turning the wheels side to side when the tires themselves have good traction to the ground.

All of these can be overcome. IMHO they aren't worth it though. For most a 6" shackle will work out fine with less of the negative side effects.
 
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